CUCV Roof Repair

[jplace1011]

Hi Everyone! I have a 1985 CUCV M1009. I noticed that the roof needs some love.

The area above the back seat and towards the back window in particular. I’m fairly certain the roof in that area is made of fiberglass. Hairs of the fiberglass are a bit visible. Do you recommend any way to repair that area? I’m thinking of using a Bondo product, but I’m not sure which one since there are so many to choose from. Maybe I should sand the areas then apply a Bondo product, sand it again then primer it then paint it?

Also I noticed there are a few areas of rust and holes. I’m thinking I should grind the rust off and existing Bondo, then apply Bondo patches, then apply Bondo filler. Then sand it and primer it, finally paint it. I’m wondering should I spray oil based primer before I apply the patches or afterwards?

Thank you in advance a head of time. I appreciate any help. You guys here in this forum are tryout the best!

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[nyoffroad]

Well the bad news is you only see about 25% of the rust, or that may be the good news? At this point you only have two options, 1 stuff scuff and spray it or #2 find a donor body in a junk yard and weld the 'new' roof on.
#2 is by far the better choice but requires knowledge and tools you may not have so..
#1 it is, I'd start by pully the windshield and the fiberglass cap off then grind all that old crap out of there and the surrounding area, tap in the edges and get yourself a gallon can of Tiger Hair or other 'fiber reinforced' body filler and stuff as much of that snot into the large holes as possible. After it hardens hit it with the grinder and knock down the high spots then fill in with body filler. A "lightweight" filler sands easier than others. When you get it down smooth and no divots then prime with a 2 part urethane filler/primer That can be used on the fiber cap too after sanding.
Make sure you use PPE! Including gloves when sanding that cap, fiberglass splinters can jab fingers and hurt like a ***
Good luck. Oh yeah do the work in the SHADE!

 

[jplace1011]

Well the bad news is you only see about 25% of the rust, or that may be the good news? At this point you only have two options, 1 stuff scuff and spray it or #2 find a donor body in a junk yard and weld the 'new' roof on.
#2 is by far the better choice but requires knowledge and tools you may not have so..
#1 it is, I'd start by pully the windshield and the fiberglass cap off then grind all that old crap out of there and the surrounding area, tap in the edges and get yourself a gallon can of Tiger Hair or other 'fiber reinforced' body filler and stuff as much of that snot into the large holes as possible. After it hardens hit it with the grinder and knock down the high spots then fill in with body filler. A "lightweight" filler sands easier than others. When you get it down smooth and no divots then prime with a 2 part urethane filler/primer That can be used on the fiber cap too after sanding.
Make sure you use PPE! Including gloves when sanding that cap, fiberglass splinters can jab fingers and hurt like a ***
Good luck. Oh yeah do the work in the SHADE!

Hi nyoffroad! Thank you for the response and info. I’ll have to map out my game plan for all of this. I did find a used fiberglass top in PA, but I’m in California so I think the shipping will be a small fortune. Plus I’d have to remount the rack onto the replacement roof.

I guess I now have an excuse to purchase a pneumatic grinder! I’m going to be very careful around the chemicals and stay in the shade.

I may have to hit you back up if that’s ok.

Thank you again for your help and have a great evening good sir!


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[edpdx]

I agree with nyoffroad. I went through the same area over the past summer. My windshield was cracked. The window guy that came out said there was rust and I'd have to fix it before he could replace the windshield.

Ground part of the frame above the passenger side and rebuilt it with some 3M marine after spraying encapsulator to contain unknown rust.
Ideally you could find a solid donor roof- or better a skin, but don't hold your breath. Skins are obsolete GM parts, and unless you have metal working skills, you'll have to pay for quality results. My paint Shop instructor recommended cut and fill with fiberglass (marine) and shape carefully. Seal with several coats. Prime with 4-6 coats of hi-build 2K Urethane primer. Sand and paint. It won't last forever, but mine looks good.
It will probably outlast your expectations- maybe long enough to find a cherry donor roof.

 

[nyoffroad]

I wouldn't worry about the fiber cap, just DA it smooth and prime and paint it you want it rough then use some Rocker Shultz and spray away. It's available in black, tan and I think white. Thinking about that I'd be tempted to spray the whole roof including the metal top with it, that way a year or so from now if rust is bubbling up it's easy to touch up. I would stay away from using a bedliner material on it because that stuff is so hard to repair.
After you stuff the rust holes make sure to spray some amber rust proofing in between the inner and outer roof panels, that will help prolong your repair. That rust is coming from the inside out, over the years water leaked in and then condensed on the inside of the outer panel.

 

[jplace1011]

I wouldn't worry about the fiber cap, just DA it smooth and prime and paint it you want it rough then use some Rocker Shultz and spray away. It's available in black, tan and I think white. Thinking about that I'd be tempted to spray the whole roof including the metal top with it, that way a year or so from now if rust is bubbling up it's easy to touch up. I would stay away from using a bedliner material on it because that stuff is so hard to repair.
After you stuff the rust holes make sure to spray some amber rust proofing in between the inner and outer roof panels, that will help prolong your repair. That rust is coming from the inside out, over the years water leaked in and then condensed on the inside of the outer panel.

Thank you for the advice edpdx and nyoffroad. I’ve been searching for another fiberglass roof and metal skin. I may have a few possibilities, I’ll have to see how it pans out. nyoffroad, I have a silly question. You said “just DA it smooth..” What do you mean by DA? I’m not hip to the lingo I guess.


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[jplace1011]

Thank you for the advice edpdx and nyoffroad. I’ve been searching for another fiberglass roof and metal skin. I may have a few possibilities, I’ll have to see how it pans out. nyoffroad, I have a silly question. You said “just DA it smooth..” What do you mean by DA? I’m not hip to the lingo I guess.


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Dual Action Sander!!!! Doooh!!


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[jplace1011]

I wouldn't worry about the fiber cap, just DA it smooth and prime and paint it you want it rough then use some Rocker Shultz and spray away. It's available in black, tan and I think white. Thinking about that I'd be tempted to spray the whole roof including the metal top with it, that way a year or so from now if rust is bubbling up it's easy to touch up. I would stay away from using a bedliner material on it because that stuff is so hard to repair.
After you stuff the rust holes make sure to spray some amber rust proofing in between the inner and outer roof panels, that will help prolong your repair. That rust is coming from the inside out, over the years water leaked in and then condensed on the inside of the outer panel.

Hello Again! I may have found someone with the outer skin of the cabin roof. He has a totaled Blazer. If I’m able to get it, I wanted to ask: how do I take off the outer roof skin? I will have to hire someone to put it into my CUCV, but first I need to get it off properly.

Thank you for any help, I deeply appreciate it!


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[cucvrus]

If it were me doing the job I would cut the A pillar off and the B pillar and replace the entire roof assembly. You can make a few jigs with yard sticks or something to get everything back in square and aligned. It will need a good welder guy and you could slip a few pieces of 1/4" flat bar down the open holes in the A pillar and a little wider down the B pillar. The flat bar gives you something heavy to weld to and get a good bite. You would only have the 4 small areas to do any body filler work when you do it this way and do it right. I done this to a CUCV pick up that had severe roof damage and it lasted for years. Sawszall was all I needed to remove the roof and like I said careful measurements and jig sticks. Lots of Sharpy marks with measurements and have at it. Changing the outer skin will be a nightmare. If it were a new skin that would be different. You could glue the skin on and never have the weld burn in the primer. Good Luck. That rain gutter is the worst part on the roof skin. Every spot weld will need cut and welded shut. I see warpage with that job. And what does the under laying metal look like at this point? It can be done. I am NOT saying it can't be.