Hydraulic help

[patracy]

Does anyone have any information about Commerical Hydraulic Kontak LTD valves? I'm working on a project and everything is pretty much working, but the valve body I have is a open center valve. I know some valves can be converted to closed center with a plug. Which is what I need. But I'm not finding much about the valve I have. Apparently this brand was bought up by Parker. But I've not found any info looking at parker's website for it. Or if someone has any idea if I could simply turn a plug on the lathe to convert it? I see it has some sort of plug in it. (Last pic)

The numbers on the valve are:
3529202134
3795-54016
109544

 

[patracy]

So I needed something today to get my mind off a few things. I decided to tinker on this a little and made up my own closed center plug out of an old bolt.

 

[Mullaney]

So I needed something today to get my mind off a few things. I decided to tinker on this a little and made up my own closed center plug out of an old bolt.

.
So, you machined the bolt.
Made the lip for the O-Ring, then the bolt fits inside the used cap to seal it all up?

I have seen plugs that are generally the same diameter as the plug (almost).
Honestly though - that aughta work if the bolt is deep enough into that cap nut.

Nothing more than guessing on my part though

 

[patracy]

Yeah, I've got a bucket of stainless bolts laying around. Makes for good bar stock at times. The bolt I machined with the O-ring side faces inward to the opening shown. It gets held in place and sandwiched with the cap. I just mic'd the depth of the hole and the hole of the cap and gave myself about .003 clearance for the oring to compress down. I was going to make the plug have a outer o-ring. But given the flat internal face I thought it'd be just as easy to make the oring sandwich into place.

It works, but I think I'm probably asking a lot of the tractor's internal hydraulics. I think I'll probably try to find a front pump setup for the tractor and move the valve setup over to it. Then convert the valve back to a open center. This at least gets the tractor working for now with the rear lift hoisting up in place when I'm not using the loader. (And speeds things up since the lift doesn't have to lift back up before the front end loader moves)

 

[Mullaney]

Yeah, I've got a bucket of stainless bolts laying around. Makes for good bar stock at times. The bolt I machined with the O-ring side faces inward to the opening shown. It gets held in place and sandwiched with the cap. I just mic'd the depth of the hole and the hole of the cap and gave myself about .003 clearance for the oring to compress down. I was going to make the plug have a outer o-ring. But given the flat internal face I thought it'd be just as easy to make the oring sandwich into place.

It works, but I think I'm probably asking a lot of the tractor's internal hydraulics. I think I'll probably try to find a front pump setup for the tractor and move the valve setup over to it. Then convert the valve back to a open center. This at least gets the tractor working for now with the rear lift hoisting up in place when I'm not using the loader. (And speeds things up since the lift doesn't have to lift back up before the front end loader moves)

.
The collective skills in this organization is really amazing.
Good part is - at least the way it is now will make it useful.

Might look and see what the GPM is on the pump.
If it just moves really slow that could be an issue too.

A really big DP100 tractor that I used to work on had a monster hydraulic pump out in front.
It was used to run a spool wire and that hydraulic drive motor was a "pig".
It generated enough heat to need a fluid cooler...