1009 CUCV 6.2 Blazer; multi-fuel heater's equipped, oil pan, transmission pan, drain plug's, location of?

[RUSSELL THESING]

I need to ask about my 1985 MV1009 CUCV, engine bay, multi-fuel heaters equipped blazer. I never thought I would have to ask how to find an oil drain plug, but the heat delivery ducts cover the entire bottom of both transmission and engine oil pan.

All I can see of any bolts whatsoever are the bolts holding the pan's themselves. Uh oh, does this mean the whole pan needs dropped, or it has to go to quik-lube for the Super Sucker down the level-check tube's for motor oil and trans fluid. I just got under my new blazer for about two minutes yesterday, and did not see any hint of drain plugs.

Additionally, anyone know of the Rebuild Kit part number, ordering information for the driver side alternator, I think it's the isolated ground 24Volt unit on that side of the engine.

I'm working my way down to the glow plugs and injectors.

BTW, does anyone know where to find a replacement (24V, I think) solenoid valve located on the driver side multifuel heater. It's located on top of the tank, in the rear part, the firewall end of it. It is the second threaded port opening, counting from the firewall side. This peculiar design solenoid valve has two wires going (screw cap) into it, I think I saw "24V" in the yet uncleaned surface, not certain yet. But even a part # would be great to start looking around.
Thanks for any help
Russell

 

[Barrman]

You have a very unique project.

Simple stuff first. The alternators on a stock M1009 are each 12 volt isolated ground units. The drivers side supplies the front battery which most of the truck is run from at 12 volts. The passenger side alternator is exactly the same as the other one and supplies the rear battery 12 volts. The way the batteries are hooked together the starter, glow plug system, slave cable port, military radio power supply and it would seem your fuel fired heater all get 24 volts.

Several members here on the site sell alternator rebuild kits. Very easy and affordable to do.

At the top of the page is a banner that has several drop down boxes. The far right one is "TM". That is for Technical Manual. Find the ones for the M1009 and look through them. If the heater was a military installed item then at least one of the TM's will tell you how to change your fluids with it installed.

The heater itself should have a data plate on it somewhere. Find it and look up the National Stock Number listed on the data plate. Who made it, what it is, etc... All should be easily found. There will also be a TM for the heater with a detailed listing of the parts.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

FYI, Russell, you don't have an 85. You have an 84. The Army didn't want the hassle of dealing with model year changes in their supply chain, so they required them all to be built to 84 specs. When you need parts, you want 1984 parts, no matter if your truck was built in 84, 85, or 86.

 

[RUSSELL THESING]

Okay, thanks -I do appreciate knowing this detail about them
Russell

 

[RUSSELL THESING]

You have a very unique project.

Simple stuff first. The alternators on a stock M1009 are each 12 volt isolated ground units. The drivers side supplies the front battery which most of the truck is run from at 12 volts. The passenger side alternator is exactly the same as the other one and supplies the rear battery 12 volts. The way the batteries are hooked together the starter, glow plug system, slave cable port, military radio power supply and it would seem your fuel fired heater all get 24 volts.

Several members here on the site sell alternator rebuild kits. Very easy and affordable to do.

At the top of the page is a banner that has several drop down boxes. The far right one is "TM". That is for Technical Manual. Find the ones for the M1009 and look through them. If the heater was a military installed item then at least one of the TM's will tell you how to change your fluids with it installed.

The heater itself should have a data plate on it somewhere. Find it and look up the National Stock Number listed on the data plate. Who made it, what it is, etc... All should be easily found. There will also be a TM for the heater with a detailed listing of the parts.

Thanks Barrman;
just now getting some posting time: yes I was even able to find on-line:

Hupp Co, Mobile Products Division
BENMAR MUTI-FUEL HEATERS
MODEL CP-3050
CP-3050-A
I was called by the seller, before he mailed it from his e-bay store, to let me know I could download it for free, if I would use Google browser to search. The copy was about $27, if you cannot locate the free download.

The only speedbump to this portion of my project, was (and still is the Benmar manual side of the solenoid in question, list's the supply and return plumbing nipples, from the heat exchanger portion on the rear casing of the Benmar unit, the general area where solenoid resides. But then stops.

I did as well find the excellent free download CUCV manuals on SteeleSoldiers, they are very, very valuable to have. Between the two sources I thought to able to locate at least perhaps a part number for the two-pin solenoid in question.

The other manual, which is the wiring harness side, did address the general area in question, by reason of the wiring harness they pictured at this area of juncture, with the Benmar unit's requirements for a 24V (I think) empowered two-pin solenoid.

Whether this solenoid valve activates Supply, or Return for the heat exchanger, is not yet determined at this time. Said another way, the combined efforts of both manuals do not include this junction which otherwise are the connection between the two sides. Ah well. haha, still at it though, finally getting back into the garage today. Thanks for your help!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

David Riddle is very helpful, his contact is xxx-xxx-xxxx,

DON'T POST PHONE NUMBERS ON A PUBLIC WEBSITE!!!!


You are inviting harassment and spam to that number!

Same for email addresses.

Please go back and edit your post. If you have a phone number to share, do it by PM.

 

[RUSSELL THESING]

Does anyone know if the 1994 6.5 turbo diesel GMC's serpentine belt system will bolt onto the CUCV 6.2? I just remembered a 6.5 turbo diesel sitting, 40 mile round trip away, in a friends yard with a seized engine. Seems I have seen the 6.2 and 6.5 share some common parts on the webpages I've been looking thru for new parts while I have pulled everything (multi-fuel heaters, hoses, etc.) apart getting down to the injectors . Which then raises the possibility of the 6.5 turbo system potentially usable on the 6.2 CUCV? I started thinking about this when pulling off the glazed and cracked fan belts. Also, I need a recommendation for a cold climate glow-plug, from someone who's tried a few of them in their own 6.2 , sort of up north area. I have Bosch 43G (says made in italy) which may be original. My injectors #'s were checked by a refurbish company in Anchorage , she said the Bosch # was unusual because they came made for only one # needle inside, with no alternate combinations offered for reconfiguration. But, the engine ran very well, after hard starting every single time (ambient 75 degrees), unless engine already warm. The exhaust was not burning rich, ran very smooth and clean, revved very well. Thinking of buying a sonic wave cleaner tank and running the old Bosche's thru, and re-using them. Would like to get injectors with the same blade width as well, just hotter. Still haven't tested the old glow-plugs yet, but seems these are worth changing 43G seems a fairly low number compared to the other Bosch units for sale now. Appreciate all insight, assistance availible:

Tip of the hat to MarcusOReallyus for very good advice on spamming contact number -thank you
Russell

 

[Rutjes]

The v-belt system can be swapped for the serpentine. You will convert to 12v in the process. The 6.5 turbo will work with your 6.2. You'd need to get short body injectors or space the passenger side exhaust manifold (I think some use double gaskets). You could swap the heads. 6.5 injectors are angled upwards more. If your truck is lifted you might get away with the stock crossover, if not you need a custom one to go around the front driveshaft. Exhaust will need to be custom as well.

You could also use the 6.5 fuel filter manager. Supposed to be better then the stock CUCV fuel filter, but I'd prefer a spin-on.

 

[SomeNewGuy]

FYI, Russell, you don't have an 85. You have an 84. The Army didn't want the hassle of dealing with model year changes in their supply chain, so they required them all to be built to 84 specs. When you need parts, you want 1984 parts, no matter if your truck was built in 84, 85, or 86.

First I have heard about this... is there any example differences from one year to the next?

 

[RUSSELL THESING]

The v-belt system can be swapped for the serpentine. You will convert to 12v in the process. The 6.5 turbo will work with your 6.2. You'd need to get short body injectors or space the passenger side exhaust manifold (I think some use double gaskets). You could swap the heads. 6.5 injectors are angled upwards more. If your truck is lifted you might get away with the stock crossover, if not you need a custom one to go around the front driveshaft. Exhaust will need to be custom as well.

You could also use the 6.5 fuel filter manager. Supposed to be better then the stock CUCV fuel filter, but I'd prefer a spin-on.

Thank you Rutjes;
Had to think this through. Okay, I did by-pass the two resisters on the firewall, and moved the 12V lead from the first battery, to the main + block above the glow plug solenoid, no chance of erratic 24V seeping into the 12V system there. The previous owner's wife reported a " ...really hot smell, like overheating engine..." The 2-3 utube vids mentioned this can potentially be traced to the resisters gone wild, so I did this much so far. However the starter motor, and engine bay mounted multifuel heater/burners will still require a 24V system.

I think this means I will need to stay with the two alternators for now, so I guess I'm going to have to figure out a dual alternator serpentine belt set-up, which the donor truck, the 1994 6.5 does not come with. Wondering if I did, do they make a belt that long? Probably.

Or, just stay with the OEM v-belt system for now upon reassembly. Wondering if a better alternative to this is to possibly later come up with a 24V alternator. If it can be done, add some type of DC voltage splitter with built-in regulator, voltage reduction device of some type. To be wired in supplying charge to the front 12V battery, while the 24V alternator continuously supplies the rear 24V, sequentially wired battery?

Thanks for the turbo piping information, its great information, I'll need to wait to get the time later to do that much. I'll try to get started pulling the parts off of the donor truck for all this later this winter in the garage. This blazer came with a very nicely done true dual exhaust< I haven't measured it, but it looks to be 2", and OEM.

I still need to locate data on the method by which the two oil pans are drained, with the hot air ducting being in the way of what is normally required to change transmission fluid and motor oil. Just haven't got there yet. Waiting for the 4 core radiator to come back from the repair shop. Going to take the dash apart to pull out the heater core. Contemplating pouring into it some calcium, rust and lime remover, for a good soak, and possibly needed repair. Get it all ready for wintertime while in the garage

Found a nearby salvage yard has 5-6 blazers I can pull a replacement dashboard, and heater ducting parts needed to restore the control of air flow. Maybe just the foam gasketing needs replaced. The rear window is busted out, the replacement glass was sitting in rear seat when purchased. After vacuuming out the busted glass from inside the drop down gate, I found there are some missing pieces-parts that hold and brace the new replacement glass.
Thank you for the data
russell

 

[Rutjes]

6.5 Ambulances had dual alternators. Still 12V though. I believe one member successfully converted one of the alternators to isolated ground to mimic the CUCV 24V setup, but it wasn't easy.

The brackets are very rare. There used to be people selling laser cut brackets. I had one laser cut myself. Almost perfect, made some adjustments, but never got to having a better one cut. Maybe soon, as I have other things to be cut as well (turbo exhaust manifold spacer for clearing 6.2 injectors, stainless steel waterpump backing plate and some other things). Belts can be bought in pretty much any size you need.



I'm not familiar with the multi-fuel heater setup, but swapping the starter for a 12V one is easy. This would be a good time to invest in heavier gauge wire though.