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No sir I don't. No keyed switch either.wayyy out on a limb here. Do you have the paradox by design cooling kit.
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No sir I don't. No keyed switch either.wayyy out on a limb here. Do you have the paradox by design cooling kit.
.I don't think that applies here. I've had the hmmwv for almost 2 years and it used to function normally.
That's why I didn't try to narrate anything going on. Way too loud. I wanted everyone to hear the engine slow down and speed up. Fan is steady in the engaged position but when moving rearward to unlock, it sounds like it freewheels then engages again when fully rearward. Sometimes it sounds like it has marbles in it when disengaging.Now I can't hear after the video, CAMO
Read my posts starting from the beginning and you'll see my problem. Line going to ps pump is bleed line off of the fan clutch line.What is going on with the line going into the PS pump? What exactly is the cooling system doing wrong
you don’t need a toggle switch, just unplug the 2 pin connector to engage and disengage at the TDM.- YouTube
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So I installed a new fan clutch hoping to fix my issue. In the video I have a toggle switch in place of the temperature switch. You can see what it does in the disengaged position. I still don't know what to make of my issue.
50 post later and I thought one had this fixed. I get the frustration..DOH.I read your OP…you melted your TDM because your Cadillac valve solenoid was bad, seen it, done that.
There are a lot of Chinese knock off thermostatic switches on the market, even the distributors are getting screwed from suppliers who state it’s NOS, the Chicomm crap opens at 190, military OEM is 220.
i but most everything from 3 sources in my shop, Kascar, HPG or Mac…all at one time or another have sent me Chicomm by accident. I can spot that junk as soon as it arrives.