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fuel pump.

davidb56

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Bonners Ferry Idaho
I haven't heard my in tank pump run before start up for a while, and today when changing the primary fuel filter, I couldn't use it to fill it back up. truck has been running fine and still does without it. I only use it for firewooding around me and snow plowing, so no highway driving.
I have verified it doesn't work. maybe next week I'll rig up a exterior inline fuel pump. Makes me wonder how critical it actually is.
 

fleetmech

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Connecticut
In my opinion, it seems to vary in importance truck-by-truck. Some seem to 'need' it to even start, others go long periods not even knowing its gone. My supposition is that it has to do with how airtight the low pressure system is, and how healthy the booster pump is. Will pulling fuel through all those lines and filters hurt the normally pressure fed booster pump in the long run? That was a big problem on 2nd gen 24v Cummins engines, where the stock lift pump would die and the injector pump would pull enough to stay running, but not enough to fully cool and lube itself and die a slow protracted death.
 

davidb56

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Bonners Ferry Idaho
I got a 24vdc inline pump I bought from Summit a few years ago. it has 3/8" hose fittings on it. I'll adapt this week. I noticed Boyce has a better quality one also. Its probably been out for quite some time because by the time I use the truck, a couple weeks go by and that damn low air buzzer comes on as soon as I turn on the switch, so I hadn't heard it run. Hell, I can't even here the engine run over the buzzer....its more annoying than a mother in law.
 

V8srfun

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Altoona pa
From what I understand it is not as much of a issue with the truck being able to run as it is a issue with wear and tear on the mechanical pump. Or in other words the less inlet pressure it sees the harder it has to work to get fuel up to pressure.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
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Interlachen Fl.
Getting hard to remember much but was not the original primary fuel filter just a screen cleanable type. There just to catch large particles to protect booster plus catch water. Then most have switched to more restrictive paper filters. Guess I got lucky never had to replace the in tank pump when I was running a Deuce. If my in tank would have needed replacing I would not go with a in line but pay the price for the correct replacement.
Just wondering how well will that in line pump flow with no power to it?
 
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INFChief

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Location
New York
I haven't heard my in tank pump run before start up for a while, and today when changing the primary fuel filter, I couldn't use it to fill it back up. truck has been running fine and still does without it. I only use it for firewooding around me and snow plowing, so no highway driving.
I have verified it doesn't work. maybe next week I'll rig up a exterior inline fuel pump. Makes me wonder how critical it actually is.
Have you done any troubleshooting? Voltage checks?
 

INFChief

Well-known member
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Location
New York
yes. At 600$ for a new in tank pump, I exhausted all possibilities. motor no workie with 24vdc .
Let me backtrack so I can ‘catch up’. Did you check for voltage at the fuel tank? Was the fuse blown?

If no voltage to the tank pump; are there any gauges on the dash not working?
 

INFChief

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New York
I didn't buy one because it cost too much.
If you already know this - I apologize.

The circuit that provides battery voltage to the in-tank fuel pump is 654. It feeds off of the master power switch, routes through a cannon plug and then on to the fuel pump.

If you have already done these voltage or continuity checks, I apologize.

You can start with voltage checks at either end and work your way through. I like to start at the component that is supposed to work.

Turn the master power on and set your voltage tester to 30, 60, or 100 VDC (higher than 24volts). Ground the negative lead on a clean part of the frame. Touch the positive lead to the wire feeding the fuel pump.

If there is voltage either the fuse is blown, the pump is faulty or the tank isn’t getting a good ground through the mounting brackets.

If no voltage then trace that wire back and look & feel for brakes or unintentional grounds.

With the MSTR PWR on You can then text circuit 654 at the cannon plug (most likely on the firewall). If you have Voltage getting to circuit 654 but it is not making it to the fuel pump there is a break in the wire from the fuel pump to the cannon plug.

If you are not getting voltage through the cannon plug poke your voltage tester lead into the opposite cannon plug side that holds 654 coming from the master power switch. If you are getting voltage to the cannon plug but not through it inspect the cannon plug pins and sockets for damage (burnt) or pushed out not allowing contact. Sometimes someone will try to force the cannon plug in toplace and it’s not lined up. That could bend or break or push the pin or socket out to the point it will no longer make a connection.

If you are not getting voltage in the MSTR PWR switch side of the cannon plug trace that wire to the master power switch looking for a break or unintentional ground.

Finally, you can test to make sure the master power switch is providing voltage to circuit 654.

To verify an open circuit by checking resistance - be sure to remove all power from the circuit. Additionally, disconnect the cannon plug so you can read one leg of 654 at a time. If you don’t isolate each leg your reading could be influenced by parts / components in the circuit.

This seems like a lot of work & testing but it isn’t. Most circuits fail or have human induced issues at one end or the other or at connections along the circuit. Believe it when I tell you I’ve come across oxidized and corroded wires in the center of a circuit and could only find it by touch or by probing that wire every couple of inches until I no longer had a reading. When the reading stopped I knew the break was right there.

It has got to be something simple.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
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Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
Up date. I installed the inline 24vdc fuel pump from Summit (cost 60$ last year) . It doesn't restrict flow when shut off. It runs fine. It needs 2- 1/4mpt x 1/2 hose barbs, 8 inches of 1/2" fuel hose and 4 gates screw clamps to install inline by cutting out a 12" section of the 1/2 copper line. Some retailers sell it for the deuce at a higher cost and is the same one, except the Warbro brand one which looks like a better quality one for 180$ at Boyce.
 

INFChief

Well-known member
722
1,348
93
Location
New York
Up date. I installed the inline 24vdc fuel pump from Summit (cost 60$ last year) . It doesn't restrict flow when shut off. It runs fine. It needs 2- 1/4mpt x 1/2 hose barbs, 8 inches of 1/2" fuel hose and 4 gates screw clamps to install inline by cutting out a 12" section of the 1/2 copper line. Some retailers sell it for the deuce at a higher cost and is the same one, except the Warbro brand one which looks like a better quality one for 180$ at Boyce.
Spend a few minutes troubleshooting; you might not have to spend anything but time.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
1,020
1,237
113
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
Spend a few minutes troubleshooting; you might not have to spend anything but time.
I did. thats how I knew the pump motor was bad. 24vdc at the connector which is now powering the new pump. The deuce wiring is so simple, a 18 year old can trouble shoot it...... Now the wiring on my last BMW motorcycle would give a electrical engineer nightmares. hahahahahaha
 
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