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CUCVRUS Repair Projects

Mullaney

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View attachment 844597
Has anyone else had the red warning light on the front wheel hub come on. Nothing showing on the dash panel so wondering what it could possibly be.
It's not covered in the sticky notes or the TM. The flat tire is an easy fix. I'll check the wheel bearing once I get home. Take Care. Be Safe.
.
Must have forgotten to grease those bearings after installing them yesterday.
You suppose that is going to be a problem. Hmmm. Dang that's hot!

ROFLPIMP.png
 

cucvrus

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I have been very busy lately at home and at work. I have an M1009 torn apart at work for several parts to be replaced. I did manage to get the door pin bushings in the hinges today, the neutral safety switch to repair the B/U lamps and the horn spring contact. OK so the door pin bushings were in need of replacement a few years ago and the hinges were badly whittled out and the bushings and pin would just sit in loosely. I thought about how to tighten them up quickly and permanently. I could weld and drill that takes to long and the truck is not warranting that much work. I went and got weed whacker string. Heavy nylon and hammered it flat.DSCF8089.JPG DSCF8090.JPG I placed the hammered end in the hole of the hinge and tapped the bushing in place.DSCF8088.JPG Nice and tight. These are the correct hinge pin/bushing kits from NAPA.DSCF8091.JPG DSCF8092.JPG This had 1 pin and several bushings. The smaller un splined bushings fit the CUCV hinges. I hammered in the new pins and greased the new pins and bushings with real grease and motor oil. I will install the door later. For now the hinges are tight and ready for years of use and abuse. Good Luck.
 

cucvrus

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Next I removed the old 2 wire CUCV neutral safety switch from the lower column inside the truck under the dash. I have an extra column to show you where it is and how to install and adjust, It is easy and requires a small screw driver to snap it in place and pry the old one gently out of place. DSCF8093.JPG This is the new NAPA switch. I show NAPA because if I show Autozone I always get flak about junk. News Flash. Autozone is the same part differnt box. Both China made. Mainland China. DSCF8094.JPG I taped the3 terminal shut that the CUCV does not use. The only purpose for my taping is so you know those terminals are there on the switch but do nothing for a CUCV. No need to worry the un taped 2 terminals are the ones that are needed to operate the B/U lamps. DSCF8094.JPG Old switchDSCF8095.JPG Old switch apartDSCF8096.JPG DSCF8097.JPG Showing the brass contacts that are badly worn and prevented the B/U from working. DSCF8098.JPG Contact in place where the B/U should operate. they didn't. DSCF8099.JPG Donor column for pictures. DSCF8101.JPG Old switch snapped onto top of donor column for demonstrationDSCF8102.JPG instructions only. The switch ratchets back and forth for fine tuning the B/U lamps that they come on when the vehicle is shifted to reverse. That was Easy. I have this picture so you can see how the switch snaps fast to the column. DSCF8100.JPGThis the part of the switch that snaps fast the other part moves inside the 2 halves of the switch housing. I hope this is helpful.
 

cucvrus

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i also worked on the replacement horn contact. DSCF8104.JPGSome genius had stretched the spring out to make up for the lost spring contact lock.DSCF8105.JPGDSCF8106.JPG the contact that comes with the new kit is wrong so I reused the OEM one. DSCF8107.JPGDSCF8108.JPG I reinstalled the steering wheel and made sure it was clocked correctly. Aligning the notch on the shaft with the notch on the steering wheel flange. See that. Perfect. DSCF8109.JPG This is the NAPA kit for the lock and new spring. DSCF8110.JPG This is the new lock spring and contact installed. Be careful or Boing it will be lost somewhere and you will be up the creek. It is a $5. kit and is worth the $5. to do the job right the first time. The horn inner ring ground are scrap I will be getting a new one. DSCF8111.JPG Riddle me this why is there always time to do the job right the second time when the first half fast job fails? Do it right the first time and drive on. I had a wise guy come in teh shop and ask if I was restoring it. I said No I am fixing it right after you guys screwed it up and it wouldn't go no more, He said it was junk that is why it won't go. I laughed and said its 38 yera old junk that needs constant minor repairs and they need done right. Take care and again I hope this helps at least 1 guy. then my efforts were worth the writeup.
 

Mullaney

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i also worked on the replacement horn contact. View attachment 844771Some genius had stretched the spring out to make up for the lost spring contact lock.View attachment 844772View attachment 844773 the contact that comes with the new kit is wrong so I reused the OEM one. View attachment 844774View attachment 844775 I reinstalled the steering wheel and made sure it was clocked correctly. Aligning the notch on the shaft with the notch on the steering wheel flange. See that. Perfect. View attachment 844776 This is the NAPA kit for the lock and new spring. View attachment 844777 This is the new lock spring and contact installed. Be careful or Boing it will be lost somewhere and you will be up the creek. It is a $5. kit and is worth the $5. to do the job right the first time. The horn inner ring ground are scrap I will be getting a new one. View attachment 844778 Riddle me this why is there always time to do the job right the second time when the first half fast job fails? Do it right the first time and drive on. I had a wise guy come in teh shop and ask if I was restoring it. I said No I am fixing it right after you guys screwed it up and it wouldn't go no more, He said it was junk that is why it won't go. I laughed and said its 38 yera old junk that needs constant minor repairs and they need done right. Take care and again I hope this helps at least 1 guy. then my efforts were worth the writeup.
.
You got an awful lot of work done cucvrus !

Really amazing how almost everything has time to be done a second time - when it gets the "hit and a miss" fix the first time. Cooler weather here. Not by more than ten degrees, but I have noticed another hour or two of work time since it isn't as miserable hot as it has been.

Heck of a job on your fixes! Lots of small but really important things got fixed for sure!
 

jplace1011

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Santa Ana, CA
i also worked on the replacement horn contact. View attachment 844771Some genius had stretched the spring out to make up for the lost spring contact lock.View attachment 844772View attachment 844773 the contact that comes with the new kit is wrong so I reused the OEM one. View attachment 844774View attachment 844775 I reinstalled the steering wheel and made sure it was clocked correctly. Aligning the notch on the shaft with the notch on the steering wheel flange. See that. Perfect. View attachment 844776 This is the NAPA kit for the lock and new spring. View attachment 844777 This is the new lock spring and contact installed. Be careful or Boing it will be lost somewhere and you will be up the creek. It is a $5. kit and is worth the $5. to do the job right the first time. The horn inner ring ground are scrap I will be getting a new one. View attachment 844778 Riddle me this why is there always time to do the job right the second time when the first half fast job fails? Do it right the first time and drive on. I had a wise guy come in teh shop and ask if I was restoring it. I said No I am fixing it right after you guys screwed it up and it wouldn't go no more, He said it was junk that is why it won't go. I laughed and said its 38 yera old junk that needs constant minor repairs and they need done right. Take care and again I hope this helps at least 1 guy. then my efforts were worth the writeup.
You are the man cucvrus!! I really wish we were neighbors!!


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nyoffroad

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Location
Rochester NY
I have been very busy lately at home and at work. I have an M1009 torn apart at work for several parts to be replaced. I did manage to get the door pin bushings in the hinges today, the neutral safety switch to repair the B/U lamps and the horn spring contact. OK so the door pin bushings were in need of replacement a few years ago and the hinges were badly whittled out and the bushings and pin would just sit in loosely. I thought about how to tighten them up quickly and permanently. I could weld and drill that takes to long and the truck is not warranting that much work. I went and got weed whacker string. Heavy nylon and hammered it flat.View attachment 844755 View attachment 844756 I placed the hammered end in the hole of the hinge and tapped the bushing in place.View attachment 844754 Nice and tight. These are the correct hinge pin/bushing kits from NAPA.View attachment 844757 View attachment 844758 This had 1 pin and several bushings. The smaller un splined bushings fit the CUCV hinges. I hammered in the new pins and greased the new pins and bushings with real grease and motor oil. I will install the door later. For now the hinges are tight and ready for years of use and abuse. Good Luck.
I've had the same problem in years past and had good luck putting a bushing in the hole and welding the worn out part of the hole up. The bushing is trashed but keeps the weld in 'place' so no drilling is required (if done right) usually a small round rat tail file to make a second bushing fit and minute of time and it's done.
 

cucvrus

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It's just the welding near the truck that scares me. It may be scrap but the welds will scar the windows and then the wipers will tear. And I am not about to stand on my head and get the inside out bolt from the top A pillar hinge. But yes welding works great. This weed whacker string will outlast the truck and never rust.
 

cucvrus

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No photo description available.

Not mine but seen it and wanted to share. Taking the body off of a rusty CUCV is the only way to properly do the repairs. I don't think I would attach the new 1/4 panel while the body is unattached from the main frame. But I did this hanging up of M1009 tubs a few times with out the rotisserie. 4 heavy ratchet straps hung from the barn roof anyways worked for me. Take Care and enjoy the day.
 

cucvrus

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OK. I went and picked up a customers M1009 that I had at the transmission shop for the differential overhaul and the TH400 transmission. Ouch it hurt to pay that bill. The issues was it had a lo speed big clunk on occasion and spit transmission fluid out and sprayed the gate with ATF on long over the road trips. DSCF8114.JPG This piece was all scored and needed replaced. The clutches were burnt.DSCF8115.JPG DSCF8116.JPG DSCF8117.JPG I am not a transmission guy and never wanted to be. I took the M1009 for a ride it shifted perfect and ran smooth. No more clunking and grinding in the rear and the transmission works smoothly. Now I have other things to do. I almost fell victim to a scam deal on my Trail Boss. The dealer that sold it to me 2 1/2 years ago offered me what I paid for it if I traded it on a new truck. I was in the dealership for service and he approached me. The new truck had the 6.2 gas engine The 6.2L with DFM — the largest and most powerful gas V-8 in the segment — is SAE-certified at 420 horsepower (313 kW) and 460 lb-ft of torque (623 Nm) and is paired with a Hydra-Matic 10-speed automatic transmission. I took it for a ride while they appraised my truck. I was really not impressed with the power. My Trail Boss has a 5.3 5.3L EcoTec3 V8 (L84) EQUIPPED WITH DYNAMIC FUEL MANAGEMENT 355 horsepower and 383 lb.-ft. of torque 8-speed automatic transmission. I could barely tell the difference when climbing the same mountain pedal to the metal. They wanted 25K out and I went home with my Trail Boss. I guess they kept their word giving me what I paid for it on a fully loaded truck they had in stock. No Deal. I only have 21K on my Trail Boss. Not even broken in yet.
 

cucvrus

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May be an image of text that says 'WHEN YOU'RE IN THE HMMWV DOING 55 MPH AND THE SUM BITCH STARTS SHAKING LIKE THE FUKIN SPACE SHUTTLE COLUMBIA'

I just took one for a ride yesterday afternoon. I thought I was reentering the earths atmosphere in an empty tin can. Scary. I did not buy it. It had more problems then I was willing to take care of. I think it had back axle halves or cupped tires. The tires were like new but old age wise. Have a Great Day.
 

cucvrus

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1631825344489.png
A genius idea for tightening the alternators and power steering pump on the CUCV. I always loved how some Japanese vehicles have the perfect nut bolt and lock pulley as an adjustment system on belts. I must admit the first time I encountered one I was baffled and it just about kicked my arse.
1631825561276.pngThat is about as easy as it gets and is reliable. Have a Great Evening.
 

Mullaney

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May be an image of text that says 'WHEN YOU'RE IN THE HMMWV DOING 55 MPH AND THE SUM BITCH STARTS SHAKING LIKE THE FUKIN SPACE SHUTTLE COLUMBIA''WHEN YOU'RE IN THE HMMWV DOING 55 MPH AND THE SUM BITCH STARTS SHAKING LIKE THE FUKIN SPACE SHUTTLE COLUMBIA'

I just took one for a ride yesterday afternoon. I thought I was reentering the earths atmosphere in an empty tin can. Scary. I did not buy it. It had more problems then I was willing to take care of. I think it had back axle halves or cupped tires. The tires were like new but old age wise. Have a Great Day.
.
Really cucvrus !? I thought all of them road like that.
Kinda like they have four square wheels.

So, are you telling me that the HMMWV is supposed to ride like an old Chevy pickup truck?

:cool:
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
I put an engine in one for a friend and I received it all apart and had to figure it out for myself. After I had the engine in and running I took it for a ride with the engine cover still missing. I was going about 50 MPH and I thought " Where is your brain?" "What were you thinking?" That 6.2 was screaming and I was right there sitting beside it and it struck me about what would happen if a coolant hose broke or the engine flew apart. I went back home very slowly and put the engine cover on. Then back on the road test I went. Still thought "Not what I want to drive" The cool look is there but after that I don't like it. Take Care and have a nice day.
 
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