Mep 803a quick questions.

[Gameboynws]

Got couple of quick questions. I recently purchased a 09 Fremont 803a (750hrs). With new batteries installed, it started quickly and ran very good.

1. Should this gen be allowed to idle for warmup and shut down, or just stay at 1800rpms?

2. I verified that fuse mod has been installed, should I also install the blue disk to the voltage regulator? If so, where to buy additional fuses and blue disks?

3. I verified unit was producing electricity via 110 outlets (115v @ 60hz). My question is that only the voltage gauge was working (240v). Does the hertz and percent capacity gauges only work when a load is applied to the L1-L3 terminals?

So far, that’s it for now. Thanks for the help.


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[Elijah95]

The only thing I can be of use on is question 1), and the answer is No; you do not want to idle it as damage to the power generation side will happen quickly if idled.

However, what I like to do before actually starting one is open the engine door and use the switch inside to crank the engine for 5-10 seconds to prime the oil system. Restore the switch to position, open front panel and fire it up. Does it help? Maybe. Does it make me feel better after months of sitting? Absolutely


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[DieselAddict]

All of the gauges should be "live" and reading their respective parameters when the unit is running. Even load on the convenience outlet should register on the load meter. It may be challenging to put enough load on the convenience outlet to get the load meter to move much.

The output contactor doesn't have to be closed or load applied for the frequency meter to work.

The blue disk is a MOV and in my opinion should be installed.

 

[Light in the Dark]

1800 from the day it was made. Absolutely no reason to adjust the RPMs past the rotational adjustment to compensate for load.

Fuses can be sourced many places, here is where I get mine from: https://www.allfuses.com/fnq-r-3

As for the MOV, you will have to look through the forums for the source (Allied Electronics maybe?).

Hertz should read all the time. Check your connections, but its possible you have a dead gauge.

 

[Ray70]

Since you voltage gage is working, that means the gen is producing power. Therefore, as LITD mentioned your HZ gage ( assuming you have the throttle up high enough to be above 55HZ ) issue must be a bad connection, a faulty gage or possibly a bad frequency transducer.
I would start by getting a Kill-a-watt meter to plug in and verify the Hz, then start troubleshooting at the gage and work backwards to wards the transducer.

 

[Guyfang]

I might add here, download the TM's from the SS sub forum, Technical Manuals. Reading the operators TM will answer many of your questions. Could save you lots of money and time.

 

[csheath]

Just a thought if you aren't a purist: None of the gauges worked on mine so I adapted generic digital meters to it. I can't find the exact ones I used but you can find different versions that would work just as well. I did have to wait for all the ones I used to ship from china.

For voltage and Hz you can get both values from the two wires connecting the existing voltage gauge. The meter I found had Volts, Hz, and hours. I found some volt/amp meters and put one of those on each leg. Watch out if you order those and make sure they are rated for up to 100 amps.

Having a volt amp reading for each leg actually turned out handy because my unit had a voltage drop on L1. If I was just watching total voltage I wouldn't have know the problem was on one leg. Cleaning and tightening connections seems to have cured that issue and it never returned.

Not pretty but functional.

 

[Gameboynws]

Thanks for all the help. Just downloaded the manuals available. Will definitely look into checking the wiring connections behind the meter. I did test the hertz with my multimeter today verify the gen was running at 60hz.


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[Ray70]

Just for the hell of it, also check for reversed wires on the gage.... wouldn't be the first one!
While in there, you can use your meter to check the signal coming from the transducer.
Consult the TM's on how to test.
I have also found 1 or 2 meters in the past that had a mfg. defect internally where there was a rectangular piece of magnet in the meter physically holding the needle, preventing it from moving. Not sure if it was an assembly aid that they forgot to remove or what....
Worst case if still in doubt there are probably a dozen guys here ( myself included ) that would be happy to test the gage for you if you want to toss it in the mail.

 

[Fry199]

Just a thought if you aren't a purist: None of the gauges worked on mine so I adapted generic digital meters to it. I can't find the exact ones I used but you can find different versions that would work just as well. I did have to wait for all the ones I used to ship from china.

For voltage and Hz you can get both values from the two wires connecting the existing voltage gauge. The meter I found had Volts, Hz, and hours. I found some volt/amp meters and put one of those on each leg. Watch out if you order those and make sure they are rated for up to 100 amps.

Having a volt amp reading for each leg actually turned out handy because my unit had a voltage drop on L1. If I was just watching total voltage I wouldn't have know the problem was on one leg. Cleaning and tightening connections seems to have cured that issue and it never returned.

Not pretty but functional.

View attachment 845263

Did you tap your gauge right into the 2 wires? Go a little more in depth on it?

 

[csheath]

Did you tap your gauge right into the 2 wires? Go a little more in depth on it?

Yes. The little square meter I used that reads Volts, hertz, and hours is connected to the two wires that previously connected to the original voltage gauge.

The volts reads low and the backlight died but the Hz is steady and correct according to my Fluke. The two 120V/AMP meters read correct voltage and the amps are close.