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mep 005a run ten sec then quit changed transducer
- Thread starter mikemike1
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Open to read commentsokay here we are of course a little thing will get you and you had mentioned about two scales on dipstick the one side showed full the other just at the add mark so we added oil to bring to the full on both sides and that took care of the light but still wont run does the same thing so thinking now a fuel problem soo if you turn on the battle switch you can hear the electric fuel pump and feel it working (this is normal. When you engage the S7, the pumps are supposed to run.) but but still wont keep running if you flip the battle switch to on while it is running during those few seconds but cannot hear or feel the electric pump running ...operating during this time and we broke some fuel lines open to see if we had flow before the fuel filter and did not also the same before the injector pump we are thinking something keeping the fuel pump from running ? (You need to read the -12 TM. It explains how the fuel system works. Follow the fuel from the generator fuel tank. In the DAY TANK, is a Fuel Float system, FL-1 and FL-2. When the low fuel switch tells the set to send more fuel to the day tank, then it tells the L2, (day tank solenoid) to open up, and the tank is filled. NOTHING turns the electric fuel pumps off. The L2 simply closes, and the pumps can not pump more fuel into the day tank, as the solenoid is closed. When the low fuel switch opens back up, the L2 opens back up, and the day tank refills. The other set of contacts in the Float system shuts the set off when the day tank float reads no more fuel is coming into the Day Tank. The S7 overrides this function. So, if the S7 will not keep the set running after the S1 is released, the Day Tank float can not be the problem.
Could it be anything with the watt transducer converter that we changed ? (No) just not getting fuel I'm at a loss. (so, lets try this. Place the S1 in the run position. Flip up the S7. You should hear the B2 & B3, (electric fuel pumps) run. After 2-3 min, MAX, they should slow down, almost to a stop. Leave the pumps running. Then walk around to the first fuel filter. Open/loosen the brass plug on top of the filter. Fuel should come out. If air comes out, let it purge itself until fuel comes out. Tighten the plug. Then go to the Day Tank. knock on the tank. Is it full? Loosen the fuel line running from the first fuel filter to the L2, on the Day Tank. Get fuel? If so, tighten it. Then go to the line from L2 to the day tank, and loosen it. Get fuel? Try this so we can troubleshoot the fuel system at least that far.
mikemike1
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yep I was reading the tm before and was tired and must of slipped on the computer and moved the page without noticing (at least that's my excuse ..ha) and gotten on the j37 plug and just saw the reset button below it and it did not set off bells and whistles with me like it should have ugh as I have never seen one either on anything ....sooo as you know your absolutely correct no reset button ..... Thank you for your summary of the fuel system as I certainly would not have glean all of that from the TM. I hope to get back to the gen tomorrow but more than likely it will be Wednesday before I do ... again thank you I am not usually this dense but having some trouble here of late but feeling better the last couple days so hopefully on the mend. Thanks again I have two of the best helping me on this so I know we'll get if figured out and done .
Ray70
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Mike, I want to double check that you are now fully understanding the function of the day tank as Guy described.
It is a gravity feed system from the day tank to the IP. You should not be looking for any significant pressure in the line to the pump as you had mentioned 6-7 PSI earlier. All you will get is gravity flow.
If the machine is running and then dies, immediately loosen the fuel line fitting at the back of the IP.
If you have flow ( with everything turned off ) then you know you have enough fuel in the day tank for it to run.
The most likely culprit of it shutting down after 10-15 seconds is the glass check ball located in the base of the T-fitting of the fuel return line that is screwed into the top cover of the Injection pump.
If that ball gets stuck closed it will cause the motor to start and run for only a few seconds, then shut off due to an increase in fuel pressure within the IP body.
Remove the T-fitting and the short fitting that attaches the T to the IP cover will have a spring loaded check ball inside it. make sure it is completely clean and free to move upward slightly towards the top of the T.
It is a gravity feed system from the day tank to the IP. You should not be looking for any significant pressure in the line to the pump as you had mentioned 6-7 PSI earlier. All you will get is gravity flow.
If the machine is running and then dies, immediately loosen the fuel line fitting at the back of the IP.
If you have flow ( with everything turned off ) then you know you have enough fuel in the day tank for it to run.
The most likely culprit of it shutting down after 10-15 seconds is the glass check ball located in the base of the T-fitting of the fuel return line that is screwed into the top cover of the Injection pump.
If that ball gets stuck closed it will cause the motor to start and run for only a few seconds, then shut off due to an increase in fuel pressure within the IP body.
Remove the T-fitting and the short fitting that attaches the T to the IP cover will have a spring loaded check ball inside it. make sure it is completely clean and free to move upward slightly towards the top of the T.
mikemike1
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Great insightful we will give it a try ...... but guess I don't understand as I read in the TM specs 6-7psi but you say gravity flow, when the fuel tank is below
boy oh boy I'm getting to complacent in my old age I'm looking at the
Man o man I'm just not back to normal yet ugh wasn't getting the "day tank" assuming it was fuel tank I'm sure you know the real meaning of "ASSUME" well its just me ha glad you pointed that out to me......... Thanks again !
mikemike1
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Sorry about the former posts every time I went to look at diagram it posted and wasn't ready for primetime as I wanted to digest things ugh...... if it wasn't so frustrating it be funny ....hell it is funny what a dummy again you guys must think I'm and idiot wonder you help me at all but much vociferous Thank You to all
Ray70
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Not to worry, we all have out moments.... I'm pretty sure I have done worse!
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Your getting there partner, your getting there. Not to worry.
mikemike1
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Still working on this thing haven't given up replaced the amp meter and while at electrical shop had it of course still wouldn't keep running as still the same problem but.......I went and tried to start and whala it started they came running our what did you do etc...... It wasn't what I did, they had pushed the primer 22 times and the pressure blew out the seals on the injector pump and then it ran fined except had a major leak from the inspection gasket in the injector pump so left it that way brought it home put new gaskets in and went back to the run for 5 sec and stop. I mention this in hopes this new information may finally lead the the proper resolution and fix. So I am guessing it telliing me its not getting air?? I've looked but didnt see any vents that may have been plugged so back at almost square one but a little more info to go on as it runs if inspection plate off injector pump pretty weird i'd say looking for some help Please
mikemike1
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So rereading everything again and again we had cleaned that "T" after ip but maybe not a good enough job. We are going to reclean the lines and glass ball and spring as Ray 70 suggested as now I do think this is the culprit and will do Monday again and let you know when done. as makes sense as when ip seals leak it runs when sealed tight just runs for 10 sec. Only thing now that makes sense.
Mike, I want to double check that you are now fully understanding the function of the day tank as Guy described.
It is a gravity feed system from the day tank to the IP. You should not be looking for any significant pressure in the line to the pump as you had mentioned 6-7 PSI earlier. All you will get is gravity flow.
If the machine is running and then dies, immediately loosen the fuel line fitting at the back of the IP.
If you have flow ( with everything turned off ) then you know you have enough fuel in the day tank for it to run.
The most likely culprit of it shutting down after 10-15 seconds is the glass check ball located in the base of the T-fitting of the fuel return line that is screwed into the top cover of the Injection pump.
If that ball gets stuck closed it will cause the motor to start and run for only a few seconds, then shut off due to an increase in fuel pressure within the IP body.
Remove the T-fitting and the short fitting that attaches the T to the IP cover will have a spring loaded check ball inside it. make sure it is completely clean and free to move upward slightly towards the top of the T.
Mep-002A 003A spin on fuel and oil adapters
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...a-drop-in-spin-on-fuel-filter-adapter.201506/
Ambac M-50 Injection pump repair
Mep-002 003 Injector rebuilding
Several ultra low hour 002a's fully serviced and load tested
you dont have to look up here is what Ray 70 said,
Mike, I want to double check that you are now fully understanding the function of the day tank as Guy described.
It is a gravity feed system from the day tank to the IP. You should not be looking for any significant pressure in the line to the pump as you had mentioned 6-7 PSI earlier. All you will get is gravity flow.
If the machine is running and then dies, immediately loosen the fuel line fitting at the back of the IP.
If you have flow ( with everything turned off ) then you know you have enough fuel in the day tank for it to run.
The most likely culprit of it shutting down after 10-15 seconds is the glass check ball located in the base of the T-fitting of the fuel return line that is screwed into the top cover of the Injection pump.
If that ball gets stuck closed it will cause the motor to start and run for only a few seconds, then shut off due to an increase in fuel pressure within the IP body.
Remove the T-fitting and the short fitting that attaches the T to the IP cover will have a spring loaded check ball inside it. make sure it is completely clean and free to move upward slightly towards the top of the T.
Mep-002A 003A spin on fuel and oil adapters
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...a-drop-in-spin-on-fuel-filter-adapter.201506/
Ambac M-50 Injection pump repair
Mep-002 003 Injector rebuilding
Several ultra low hour 002a's fully serviced and load tested
you dont have to look up here is what Ray 70 said,
- 16,755
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- Burgkunstadt, Germany
You wrote:
Still working on this thing haven't given up replaced the amp meter and while at electrical shop had it of course still wouldn't keep running as still the same problem but.......I went and tried to start and whala it started they came running our what did you do etc...... It wasn't what I did, they had pushed the primer 22 times and the pressure blew out the seals on the injector pump and then it ran fined except had a major leak from the inspection gasket in the injector pump so left it that way brought it home put new gaskets in and went back to the run for 5 sec and stop. I mention this in hopes this new information may finally lead the the proper resolution and fix. So I am guessing it telliing me its not getting air?? I've looked but didnt see any vents that may have been plugged so back at almost square one but a little more info to go on as it runs if inspection plate off injector pump pretty weird i'd say looking for some help Please
Keep in mind, the drive shaft to the IP, has a double seal.
So if the over speed situation you had, blew out the gasket #8, it could also have flipped over the right side gasket, (#14) on the shaft, #15. When that happens, Diesel will run into the oil system and over fill the crank case. So if I was you, I would keep a real weather eye on the oil level. If it starts to come up, look thin and smell like Diesel, you are going to have to fix that.
Or did you replace the shaft seals also when you: "brought it home put new gaskets in"
Still working on this thing haven't given up replaced the amp meter and while at electrical shop had it of course still wouldn't keep running as still the same problem but.......I went and tried to start and whala it started they came running our what did you do etc...... It wasn't what I did, they had pushed the primer 22 times and the pressure blew out the seals on the injector pump and then it ran fined except had a major leak from the inspection gasket in the injector pump so left it that way brought it home put new gaskets in and went back to the run for 5 sec and stop. I mention this in hopes this new information may finally lead the the proper resolution and fix. So I am guessing it telliing me its not getting air?? I've looked but didnt see any vents that may have been plugged so back at almost square one but a little more info to go on as it runs if inspection plate off injector pump pretty weird i'd say looking for some help Please
Keep in mind, the drive shaft to the IP, has a double seal.
So if the over speed situation you had, blew out the gasket #8, it could also have flipped over the right side gasket, (#14) on the shaft, #15. When that happens, Diesel will run into the oil system and over fill the crank case. So if I was you, I would keep a real weather eye on the oil level. If it starts to come up, look thin and smell like Diesel, you are going to have to fix that.
Or did you replace the shaft seals also when you: "brought it home put new gaskets in"
mikemike1
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Great Point as I did not replace those gaskets and will be keeping a watchful eye on the Oil. Thanks for the heads up.
mikemike1
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After 4 tries at cleaning the "T" and glass ball it finally worked like it should thought we had it out 3 years ago and cleaned but now stuck in there and couldn't get it out this time so got a pick and brake and carb cleaner and after the fourth cleaning it worked like it should !! Been three years in the making but you guys were on it . Looked in the tm for part number and diagram of the spring and glass ball couldn't find it does anyone have this info as thinking I might just need one on hand. Thanks to everyone she works like she should Thank You Very Much...... Perfect couldn't be happier !!!
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The brass fitting with spring and ball is a non repairable item. Get a new fitting.
I always take a small brass punch and bust the glass ball to remove it completely. Its not needed. It will continue to give you problems because it will stick.
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If its not needed, why is it there?
My theory is that its there to keep the return lines from back flowing into the pump which would help with priming. Removal has never affected the priming of any of my units. Even sitting for a few months I can go straight to start and starts up perfect.
Scoobyshep
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I believe that's what it's for,
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I know, that's what its for. And have had hard starting 15, 30 & 60 KW sets. We simply tossed in, 1-2 times a year, some Diesel system cleaner we bought at the PX, and stopped having the problem. Also, we USED our units 24/7 and 365 days a year. The diesel lacquer dosn't form as much if the sets get used daily.