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24 volt harbor freight jump starter

Hummerhmm

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Check this out.

Harbor freight jump starter

thinking about hooking it up to a nato slave cable. Much cheaper than the Noico and imop a must have for the hmmwv in 12 volt world. Any potential harm to the electrical system (1165 a1) through the nato plug?
 

Action

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What is “imop”?
in my honest opinion ? IMHO
In my opinion ? IMO

is there something draining your batteries that should be fixed?

what is “12 volt world”? Do you mean with lots of 12v stuff hooked up in your hmmwv batteries?
 

Hummerhmm

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What is “imop”?
in my honest opinion ? IMHO
In my opinion ? IMO

is there something draining your batteries that should be fixed?

what is “12 volt world”? Do you mean with lots of 12v stuff hooked up in your hmmwv batteries?
Imop = in my opinion. I just like the way it sounds.

12 volt world means no jump start from 99.9% of cars on the road.

Nothing is draining my batteries but like to be prepared.
 

Action

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The owner’s manual states it has 1000 cold cranking amps. Is that enough? I am looking at the pdf manual that comes with it, not the HF description.
 

simp5782

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As long as you set it up so you can charge it while it's in your truck it won't hurt to carry it. If you had to depend on charging it at home it isn't worth it they are always dead when you need them. I have two I carry for OTR use that has its own blanket case in the event its in a truck during cold weather. Two will help my big diesel some to get a start in 10 degree weather.
 

mgFray

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My worry is that for jump starting the manual says if it doesn't start in 5 seconds, you need to wait for 3 minutes and then try again.

With the 6.2L/6.5L, will they ever start within 5 seconds?
 

98G

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My worry is that for jump starting the manual says if it doesn't start in 5 seconds, you need to wait for 3 minutes and then try again.

With the 6.2L/6.5L, will they ever start within 5 seconds?
My 6.2 starts instantly. Probably on the first revolution.

On the topic of jump starting a 24v vehicle from a 12v vehicle, it can be done by hooking to just one of your 24v vehicle's batteries. Usually this is sufficient.

If boosting one battery is insufficient , you can jump your 24v vehicle from two 12v vehicles simultaneously, one to each battery.

1000 amps as a booster charge should be quite sufficient to spin the 6.2/6.5 vigorously.

5 seconds duty cycle followed by 3 minutes of cooling time indicates to me that it has thin and probably aluminum cabling. When you're dead on the side of the road the temptation is going to be strong to crank it again sooner. This will result in badness.

As Wes mentioned, unless you have it hooked to charge while you drive, it'll almost certainly be dead when you need it. For this reason my choice is to just carry a couple of good sets of jumper cables in my hmmwv. So far I've never needed them.

PM to the OP
 

Coug

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So it's a pair of small 12V sealed lead acid batteries, and a switch to run them either parallel or in series.

I'm sure it will work as a boost pack if your batteries are low, but I seriously doubt you're going to have much luck starting trucks with completely dead batteries.

That 3400 peak amps is a little misleading. Sure, in 12V you'll have those "peak amps" and maybe 1700 in 24V mode, but what do they mean by "peak"?
As for the "5 seconds starting then wait 3 minutes" is because you're massively overworking the batteries, pulling a lot more current out of them than they are designed to have for load. So the reason for the 3 minutes wait is in order to let the chemistry of the battery do it's work and bring the voltage back up to where you can use it again for a couple more seconds.

The battery inside of them is a 12V 18 AH sealed lead acid deep cycle battery. It is NOT a starting battery designed for repeated heavy starting loads.
Not the exact battery, but here is a page with an identical battery and it's ratings:


My recommendation if you're looking for a jump starter pack, buy a pair of 12V packs, preferably lithium. The lithium packs have a much lower self discharge rate, and being a lot smaller they are easier to pack (you can fit a couple of the smaller ones in a 30 cal ammo can in the space next to the battery box under the commander's seat, unless you are already using a 30 cal can in that space for your winch controller and leather gloves...)

As for how to use a pair of 12V packs, hook one to each battery. That's it. Don't make things complicated by trying to figure out anywhere else; one pack hooks to the positive/negative of one battery, and the second pack hooks to the positive and negative of the other battery.

af4da1aded2709c15110e58521507c91c06c5dfd-1.jpg
 

Attachments

Hummerhmm

New member
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So it's a pair of small 12V sealed lead acid batteries, and a switch to run them either parallel or in series.

I'm sure it will work as a boost pack if your batteries are low, but I seriously doubt you're going to have much luck starting trucks with completely dead batteries.

That 3400 peak amps is a little misleading. Sure, in 12V you'll have those "peak amps" and maybe 1700 in 24V mode, but what do they mean by "peak"?
As for the "5 seconds starting then wait 3 minutes" is because you're massively overworking the batteries, pulling a lot more current out of them than they are designed to have for load. So the reason for the 3 minutes wait is in order to let the chemistry of the battery do it's work and bring the voltage back up to where you can use it again for a couple more seconds.

The battery inside of them is a 12V 18 AH sealed lead acid deep cycle battery. It is NOT a starting battery designed for repeated heavy starting loads.
Not the exact battery, but here is a page with an identical battery and it's ratings:


My recommendation if you're looking for a jump starter pack, buy a pair of 12V packs, preferably lithium. The lithium packs have a much lower self discharge rate, and being a lot smaller they are easier to pack (you can fit a couple of the smaller ones in a 30 cal ammo can in the space next to the battery box under the commander's seat, unless you are already using a 30 cal can in that space for your winch controller and leather gloves...)

As for how to use a pair of 12V packs, hook one to each battery. That's it. Don't make things complicated by trying to figure out anywhere else; one pack hooks to the positive/negative of one battery, and the second pack hooks to the positive and negative of the other battery.

View attachment 848718
I like that. Would be much cheaper also
 

MattNC

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It’s like this thread read my mind the past two days! I had the exact question about if I could use two noco 12v boosts on both batteries like Coug did. I have one and can easily get another. I was looking at quality 24v boosters and they were $500.

My dilemma came this weekend when I went to use the humvee after a week of sitting and it was dead. Jumping would have been nice if I needed to get somewhere. The batteries had only 6v measured on each. This summer I had tried to do the right thing and remove my keyed ignition due to all the potential issues discussed here and put the old military ignition back in with a battery cut off. This one time I didn’t turn off the batteries and the OEM ignition switch went out and for some reason stayed on. I had turned off the engine but the dash parking brake light and who know what else stayed on and ran everything dead. Upon inspection the OEM switch has a ton of play in it so I ordered a new OEM to replace the 30 year old one. It took two days to charge the batteries back to 100% charging them each separately with the genius charger.
 

kendelrio

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On the topic of jump starting a 24v vehicle from a 12v vehicle, it can be done by hooking to just one of your 24v vehicle's batteries. Usually this is sufficient.

Coincidentally, I had to do this to my 5 ton Friday. I shut down, went shopping and came back an hour later to drained batteries. (I think I left my lights on... 🤦‍♂️)

After researching, I found it IS possible to jump 24v off of 12v. The way I did it was connect the negative side battery (ground side) to the 12v vehicle and jump it. From what I read, that prevents a 24v surge from going back to the 12v vehicle. No need to disconnect batteries etc.

Hooked up the five ton, hooked up the 12v then started the 12v gave it about a minute to charge the 5 ton, then hit the starter. She spun right up and cranked. Ya learn something new every day.... 🤷‍♂️
 

simp5782

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Everyone should add a keyed disconnect for theft reasons. Least slow someone down anyway and keep any draws from killing your battery
 

Milcommoguy

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IMO... It would make more sense to keep on top of your rigs batteries... than spending that kind of money to tote around another piece of gear.

Don't forget the batteries hide under the seat, lol. So take a peek from time to time. Get that Amp meter out and check for parasitic drain, find it and fix it.

Clean all connections and battery tops, corrosion prevention grease where applicable, proper torqued hardware, hold downs, wires with grommets... all that good stuff.

Once one kills a lead acid battery you're on borrowed time...or for sure one of the "9" life's is gone. LOL Winter is around the corner... so fix it now or in a snow drift.

12 Volt taps and light switches, CAMO
 

simp5782

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I bought one of these today for $360 with tax. Didn't even charge it out of the box and it jumped off 3 FMTVs with really dead batteries and two tractors without issue.

I do like the digital display as it did show me the voltage the truck was putting out when running.

Will see how it holds up with me as I can break a steel ball in a rubber room.
 
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