M 932 A2 rear tire and wheel change

[Jericho]

evening guys and gals just spent three hours going thru all the 900 series TM /TO s looking for the instructions for super single A2 configuration tire and rim removal cant find it , have read it before Any one have the TM number and page paragraph

 

[simp5782]

evening guys and gals just spent three hours going thru all the 900 series TM /TO s looking for the instructions for super single A2 configuration tire and rim removal cant find it , have read it before Any one have the TM number and page paragraph

Like removing the tire and wheel from the truck?

 

[Jericho]

Hi Wes. Yup. Need to pull the rear tires and the brake hubs. Still looking for my. Won’t go more than five feet back and forth issue. I had the stuck brakes issue. Finally got the wheels to turn. But in the process damaged something. Truck will only back up and go forward about 5 feet then drive train locks up. Had issues with transfer case. So I changed it. Still only goes five feet. Has to be in two rear axles pulled the rear wheel drive shafts. Pulled truck 20 feet back. No issues. Next step I can think of is to disconnect rear axle diff drive shafts and figure out which axle. Diff. Has an issue. Frankly. Rear wheel axle shafts looked fine. Can’t hardly believe I broke a diff. Of all the bits and pieces in the drive train they are about the most bullet proof. With transfer case in neutral output shaft from transmission to transfer input turns in both forward snd reverse With rear wheels drive shaft at rear wheel output flange ( emergency brake Hub) forward and reverse seem to work normally. So. I suspect it’s in the rear axles drive train. Lol. Any ideas.

 

[simp5782]

Hi Wes. Yup. Need to pull the rear tires and the brake hubs. Still looking for my. Won’t go more than five feet back and forth issue. I had the stuck brakes issue. Finally got the wheels to turn. But in the process damaged something. Truck will only back up and go forward about 5 feet then drive train locks up. Had issues with transfer case. So I changed it. Still only goes five feet. Has to be in two rear axles pulled the rear wheel drive shafts. Pulled truck 20 feet back. No issues. Next step I can think of is to disconnect rear axle diff drive shafts and figure out which axle. Diff. Has an issue. Frankly. Rear wheel axle shafts looked fine. Can’t hardly believe I broke a diff. Of all the bits and pieces in the drive train they are about the most bullet proof. With transfer case in neutral output shaft from transmission to transfer input turns in both forward snd reverse With rear wheels drive shaft at rear wheel output flange ( emergency brake Hub) forward and reverse seem to work normally. So. I suspect it’s in the rear axles drive train. Lol. Any ideas.

Jack up the axle off the ground. Remove the interaxle driveshaft. Remove axle shafts. Remove the top nspection cover from the top of the 3rd member and spin it and see what if anything is broken.

You don't have to Jack it up actually but gives you a little more room if you are a big guy.

 

[charlesmann]

Step 1. chock wheels not to be removed
2. Place jack under axle and lift axle and place jack stand/s
3. Remove lug nut, remove tire
4. Release brakes and slide drum off hub.

 

[Jericho]

Jack up the axle off the ground. Remove the interaxle driveshaft. Remove axle shafts. Remove the top nspection cover from the top of the 3rd member and spin it and see what if anything is broken.

You don't have to Jack it up actually but gives you a little more room if you are a big guy.

Your always good for solid advice. Thank you sir. Tommorrow s job Thanks again.

 

[cbrTodd]

Step 1. chock wheels not to be removed
2. Place jack under axle and lift axle and place jack stand/s
3. Remove lug nut, remove tire
4. Release brakes and slide drum off hub.

Since this is a 932A2, unless the CTIS components have been deleted, the wheel valve and its components have to be removed first. Otherwise you will mangle the delicate aluminum fitting that comes out of the hub. This is shown in TM9-2320-272-24-2, task 3-457, rear wheel valve maintenance, but it appears to be slightly different hardware than what my truck has. Yours could be either variant, but the TM will get you close. Page 640 on the pdf copy I have, yours may vary.

 

[charlesmann]

Since this is a 932A2, unless the CTIS components have been deleted, the wheel valve and its components have to be removed first. Otherwise you will mangle the delicate aluminum fitting that comes out of the hub. This is shown in TM9-2320-272-24-2, task 3-457, rear wheel valve maintenance, but it appears to be slightly different hardware than what my truck has. Yours could be either variant, but the TM will get you close. Page 640 on the pdf copy I have, yours may vary.

I was kinda being a smarta$$ when i posted that. Just like in order to rmv the tire, rmvl of the ctis would be obvious.

But on a serious not since you brought it up. I found a 1 1/8” crowsfoot to rmv the ctis valve, then slide the b-nut off the stem and use a 1 1/8” deep socket to rmv the stem from the hub. I just found out the b-nut will slide off them stem, as i was disabling and rmving all ctis components from A2.


Back to OP where Wes replied about the top chunk. @simp5782 if you were to guess, what would be the cause of the binding in one or both of the chunks? Seized pinion or input/output bearing/s?

During tear down during wheel bearing servicing on my A2, i noticed the 4 rear axle shafts had a good bit of rust on them. Not sure where it came in from, but the rust was near where i think would be the ring bearings are.
I drained all 3 axels and got a couple ounces of water out of both rears.

Depending the last time the oil was replaced in the OP’s truck, might be enough water to severely corrode the chunk bearings. IDK, just spit balling possible causes/ideas.

 

[simp5782]

I was kinda being a smarta$$ when i posted that. Just like in order to rmv the tire, rmvl of the ctis would be obvious.

But on a serious not since you brought it up. I found a 1 1/8” crowsfoot to rmv the ctis valve, then slide the b-nut off the stem and use a 1 1/8” deep socket to rmv the stem from the hub. I just found out the b-nut will slide off them stem, as i was disabling and rmving all ctis components from A2.


Back to OP where Wes replied about the top chunk. @simp5782 if you were to guess, what would be the cause of the binding in one or both of the chunks? Seized pinion or input/output bearing/s?

During tear down during wheel bearing servicing on my A2, i noticed the 4 rear axle shafts had a good bit of rust on them. Not sure where it came in from, but the rust was near where i think would be the ring bearings are.
I drained all 3 axels and got a couple ounces of water out of both rears.

Depending the last time the oil was replaced in the OP’s truck, might be enough water to severely corrode the chunk bearings. IDK, just spit balling possible causes/ideas.

They were rusted due to sitting above the oil line and they was moisture in the unit. Condensation over time.


More than likely he's got a chipped ring tooth being that it will move a good deal before binding. Quick binds or noises are pinions and spiders

 

[charlesmann]

They were rusted due to sitting above the oil line and they was moisture in the unit. Condensation over time.

[/QUOTE]

The rust was only about 6” long and bout 4” o/b of the splines. The remaining length of the shafts were very well oiled/sticky from the 80/90. Even the small rusted spots were oily, but still heavily rusted with lite pitting.

 

[Jericho]

Since this is a 932A2, unless the CTIS components have been deleted, the wheel valve and its components have to be removed first. Otherwise you will mangle the delicate aluminum fitting that comes out of the hub. This is shown in TM9-2320-272-24-2, task 3-457, rear wheel valve maintenance, but it appears to be slightly different hardware than what my truck has. Yours could be either variant, but the TM will get you close. Page 640 on the pdf copy I have, yours may vary.

Thank you very much sir

 

[Jericho]

Well guys. Been a long time. Was headed right out to pull that wheel the next day. Went for a power walk with my wife in the early morning. Had a heart attack. , don’t have a heart attack in early covid. Was two months before I was seen by a cardiac specialist. 28 days until I saw a real doctor. Spent 6 months doing cardiac rehab. Then spent the next 8 months in AZ to escape the cold. So. Don’t want to jinx my self. But Wes. Guys. Headed out in the morning to pull the hub off my drivers rear most axle. And finally fix my five ton. Have a complete spare axle in the garage. Probably have the parts. I’ll let you know how it goes. Just got back from the hospital. Have two 3 inch hernias in my diaphragm. Doc said no lifting for 3 months after surgery. So. Better get it done before I go in for it. Ain’t growin old grand !!!

 

[Mullaney]

Well guys. Been a long time. Was headed right out to pull that wheel the next day. Went for a power walk with my wife in the early morning. Had a heart attack. , don’t have a heart attack in early covid. Was two months before I was seen by a cardiac specialist. 28 days until I saw a real doctor. Spent 6 months doing cardiac rehab. Then spent the next 8 months in AZ to escape the cold. So. Don’t want to jinx my self. But Wes. Guys. Headed out in the morning to pull the hub off my drivers rear most axle. And finally fix my five ton. Have a complete spare axle in the garage. Probably have the parts. I’ll let you know how it goes. Just got back from the hospital. Have two 3 inch hernias in my diaphragm. Doc said no lifting for 3 months after surgery. So. Better get it done before I go in for it. Ain’t growin old grand !!!

.
Well, that doesn't sound like fun...
The good part is that you didn't end up with the WooFlu on top of the heart attack!
Hope the Saw Bones can get you cobbled back together on the first attempt.

Remember to work smarter. Hustling a 5-Ton tire and rim is no joke. Barely get the wheel off the ground, then beat the lugnuts off with an impact wrench. Slide that tire off so it barely has to drop to the ground. It is several hundred pounds, so be prepared!

 

[charlesmann]

.
Well, that doesn't sound like fun...
The good part is that you didn't end up with the WooFlu on top of the heart attack!
Hope the Saw Bones can get you cobbled back together on the first attempt.

Remember to work smarter. Hustling a 5-Ton tire and rim is no joke. Barely get the wheel off the ground, then beat the lugnuts off with an impact wrench. Slide that tire off so it barely has to drop to the ground. It is several hundred pounds, so be prepared!

Since the wheel assy is so heavy, i use 2 24” 3/4” black pipe and slide over the lug studs to help navigate the assy over the hub. It works better installing them but i find it easier than guessing at the wheel height and either going or down to better center the hub in the rim. I just lift the tck to have ample clearance between gnd and rubber and work the tire down the black pipe, lifting the pipe to navigate it over the hub.