6.2L rear main seal replacement

[SnowPlowed]

Hi Folks,
I am new to Steel Soldiers and to owning the M1008. I am having a blast so far though. I apologize if the information is easily found and I missed it but could someone point me to the instructions on replacing the rear main upper and lower and other gaskets/seals while I am at it? Pictures of the process or videos? Parts lists and tool lists, etc? Thanks so much.

 

[Squibbly]

Hi Folks,
I am new to Steel Soldiers and to owning the M1008. I am having a blast so far though. I apologize if the information is easily found and I missed it but could someone point me to the instructions on replacing the rear main upper and lower and other gaskets/seals while I am at it? Pictures of the process or videos? Parts lists and tool lists, etc? Thanks so much.

OOF..
I sense an impending verbal bashing in the force headed this way.


The TM's are located here:

TM's for the CUCV

Listed below are a number of the TM's for the CUCV trucks. To save them to your computer, right click, select "save as". LO9-2320-289-12.pdf LO9-2320-289-12 Lubrication order for all variants of the CUCV. TM9-2320-289-10.pdf TM9-2320-289-10 Operators manual for all variants of the CUCV...

www.steelsoldiers.com

The TM for the rear-main seal is the -34 manual (specifically page 135, but CTRL+F and searching for Rear Main Seal will find it).
All the manuals that end in 'P' are the 'Parts' manuals.

Go get those manuals and look through them and learn how to read them.

Then the top of the forum has a Search feature:


Use that to search for things like 'Rear Main Seal' or any other seal you want to replace, and you'll most likely find the answer.
If after doing that you still need help, let us know.

People here are always willing to help people who want to help themselves, but to avoid the shade some of the saltier members will throw at you (you know who you are), do that stuff first.

Good luck on your project. Send some pics.

 

[Mullaney]

Hi Folks,
I am new to Steel Soldiers and to owning the M1008. I am having a blast so far though. I apologize if the information is easily found and I missed it but could someone point me to the instructions on replacing the rear main upper and lower and other gaskets/seals while I am at it? Pictures of the process or videos? Parts lists and tool lists, etc? Thanks so much.

.
Like Squibbly said, these crusty old Technical Manuals (TM's) are BORING and could drive you to drink, but knowing where to go for solid information will always be those books. They are the equivalent to a Chilton's Manuals in the civilian world. Hardest part is the naming nomenclature. Looking for a rubber bushing and the book is calling it a "cab support" is what I mean...

Best of luck with your new project and be sure to download those free books!

 

[SnowPlowed]

Thanks a ton for the info. I downloaded all the TMs and just read through the replacement instructions. The leak has gone on for long enough that there is quite a bit of oil blown all around underneath. Any advice on cleaning that before I get started? I was going to spray an engine cleaner down there and let it soak and then run it through the car wash. Unfortunately, since I live in Fairbanks, AK, all of the "do it yourself" carwashes are closed for the season.

 

[cucvrus]

Take it apart dirty and clean each part as you reassemble. Or reassemble every part and clean them. You will get fined where I live for washing greasy engine parts at a public car wash. For your reading pleasure. I resurrected this M1009 from the crush pile at a local salvage yard. Have fun and read this post. It is real life stuff. No book reading. Just lay on the ground and get it done stuff. Good Luck. I think I covered just about every troubled part you can have and I 4 wheeled this M1009 hard for a couple years. Take Care.

Terminus M1009 | SteelSoldiers

 

[Squibbly]

Thanks a ton for the info. I downloaded all the TMs and just read through the replacement instructions. The leak has gone on for long enough that there is quite a bit of oil blown all around underneath. Any advice on cleaning that before I get started? I was going to spray an engine cleaner down there and let it soak and then run it through the car wash. Unfortunately, since I live in Fairbanks, AK, all of the "do it yourself" carwashes are closed for the season.

Yeah...you're going to get filthy when you first start out on this thing.
I usually spray my driveway down with water, and use my pressure washer, but I imagine right now in Fairbanks if you try to use a pressure washer you're going to be shooting ice out the end (which is sometimes cool).



The rear main seal was the first thing I think I did when I got mine. I specifically bought 2 sets of Dickies blues and some Borax because I knew it would be ugly. I also bought a bunch of shop rags. I've used the hell out of those blues, and they have been covered in oil and hydraulic fluid.

Get one of these if you can swing it so you can turn the flexplate to get the top half of the seal in and make the job easier.
Amazon.com: DEF Flywheel Turner Wrench Turning Tool : Automotive

Make sure you have a torque wrench.
Make sure you have the seal for the pan.
Make sure you have assembly lube for the bearing (and that you put it back on the way it came off).
I used a wire wheel to clean the leftover gasket off my pan.
I used Acetone to get it off the block.

You're going to come out of there looking like a struck match.
Get some Gojo hand cleaner. In a pinch you can use olive oil or vegetable oil to get the Diesel oil off pretty good, or a handfull of Borax.

As @cucvrus said, pull stuff off and clean it up as you go. I don't know if they salt and slag the roads there, but if they do, having your undercarriage coated in oil isn't the worse thing in the world until spring.

 

[Skinny]

Dude if you have to ask then it's probably past your pay grade. You are talking about dropping the pan and pulling a crankshaft bearing cap.

I'm all for people wanting to learn how to wrench but your question and lack of self initiated research outside of this question makes me think it's not a good idea.

Not to mention of you get into it and decide it's too much your bottom end is splattered. You'll be stick trying to find someone to help.

It's not like you are replacing a shock or headlight.

 

[Squibbly]

Dude if you have to ask then it's probably past your pay grade. You are talking about dropping the pan and pulling a crankshaft bearing cap.

I'm all for people wanting to learn how to wrench but your question and lack of self initiated research outside of this question makes me think it's not a good idea.

Not to mention of you get into it and decide it's too much your bottom end is splattered. You'll be stick trying to find someone to help.

It's not like you are replacing a shock or headlight.

Another motivational speech brought to you by @Skinny




My money is on you being able to get it done @SnowPlowed.
You're from Alaska. I know you guys have a knack for figuring out how to get stuff done with minimal resources.

Don't let me down.

Use this video as a reference.
How To Replace a Rear Main Seal - Without Removing Trans or Engine! - YouTube

Send a video once you get it done, or "someone" is going to say "told you so".

 

[Skinny]

Haha, fair enough.

Sorry man, just calling it. It's like when someone says I like to cook so I'm going to open a restaurant.

Definitely find someone local that can help you if you tackle it yourself. I see a lot of "I service my own generator." That's why I'm onsite collecting Benjamins to unscrew it up. Sometimes just better to pay a pro.

Not mentioned, good time to double check the torque on all your bearing caps while you are in there. Maybe put a wrench on the starter fasteners too while you are in the vicinity.

 

[Squibbly]

Haha, fair enough.

Sorry man, just calling it. It's like when someone says I like to cook so I'm going to open a restaurant.

Definitely find someone local that can help you if you tackle it yourself. I see a lot of "I service my own generator." That's why I'm onsite collecting Benjamins to unscrew it up. Sometimes just better to pay a pro.

Not mentioned, good time to double check the torque on all your bearing caps while you are in there. Maybe put a wrench on the starter fasteners too while you are in the vicinity.

Every Ying needs a Yang.
Every Cheech needs a Chong.

Every Homer Angel needs a Homer Devil.


We don't know which one of us is which. It all depends on how this job goes for @SnowPlowed

 

[ssdvc]

I didn't know you could do the rear main seal without removing the trans on the 6.2, due to the oil pump interfering with an oil pan drop. If it is that easy, even I might attempt to do it, as mine is leaking as well AND I HATE LEAKS !!

 

[Squibbly]

I didn't know you could do the rear main seal without removing the trans on the 6.2, due to the oil pump interfering with an oil pan drop. If it is that easy, even I might attempt to do it, as mine is leaking as well AND I HATE LEAKS !!

You need to jack the front up high enough for the pan to clear the diff.
You can unbolt the oil pickup while the pan is still on but unbolted.

I'm a guy that will lay under the truck going through the process completely 4x in my head before I even touch a tool to make sure I run into as few issues as possible or aren't half-way through and realize I don't have a specific tool.

Just realize that once you've done it once (which is always the worst one), you'll realize after it's done how easy it actually was now that you know the process.

Make sure the lip of the seal is facing the correct direction (towards the engine), that you put the bearing back in EXACTLY how it came out (yes, it has a specific direction it needs to go into the cap) and that you use assembly lube on it, and that you follow the torque specs for the bearings because they are in the > 100 ft lb range if I remember correctly.

 

[ssdvc]

Thanks Squibbly !

 

[Skinny]

I remember the caps being pretty tight like 140 or 160. I think on a stock truck the axle and snubber are in the way but the lan will come off.

Mine leaked again after about 6 or 7 years.

 

[SnowPlowed]

Hi Folks,
I am new to Steel Soldiers and to owning the M1008. I am having a blast so far though. I apologize if the information is easily found and I missed it but could someone point me to the instructions on replacing the rear main upper and lower and other gaskets/seals while I am at it? Pictures of the process or videos? Parts lists and tool lists, etc? Thanks so much.

Thanks for all the votes of confidence. I am slowly acquiring all the supplies I need to get the job done. I like to think, even though I've never worked on one of these, that I'll be alright given all the other crap I work on out of necessity given you can't find someone to do it or it is cost prohibitive to pay someone to do it here in Alaska. Tractors at work, chainsaws, generators, boilers, track rigs, atvs, etc. I'll just do what i've done for all those and read and read and then get it done. Thanks all for the tips and tricks. I am likely going to drop the tranny though in order to clean clean clean and be as thorough as possible. And I want to inspect for main web cracking with the oil pan off etc. I'll post pics when I get into the project in the next month or so. Thanks again for all the positive feedback and encouragement. I am super pumped to tear into this thing! The end goal is to have a truck to use to haul water (we don't have a well), heating oil (delivery fee is outrageous), wood (we burn ~5 cords a winter), and a plow truck. I also aim to return it to its original color and keep it looking original. Thanks all!

 

[nyoffroad]

All of you guys are wrong! It's not leaking, it's just marking its territory!

 

[Squibbly]

Thanks for all the votes of confidence. I am slowly acquiring all the supplies I need to get the job done. I like to think, even though I've never worked on one of these, that I'll be alright given all the other crap I work on out of necessity given you can't find someone to do it or it is cost prohibitive to pay someone to do it here in Alaska. Tractors at work, chainsaws, generators, boilers, track rigs, atvs, etc. I'll just do what i've done for all those and read and read and then get it done. Thanks all for the tips and tricks. I am likely going to drop the tranny though in order to clean clean clean and be as thorough as possible. And I want to inspect for main web cracking with the oil pan off etc. I'll post pics when I get into the project in the next month or so. Thanks again for all the positive feedback and encouragement. I am super pumped to tear into this thing! The end goal is to have a truck to use to haul water (we don't have a well), heating oil (delivery fee is outrageous), wood (we burn ~5 cords a winter), and a plow truck. I also aim to return it to its original color and keep it looking original. Thanks all!

Reality is that you are living in a place I'd like to be living. I'm sure it would be a hard learning curve to become "unspoiled" from the ease of living in the lower 48 but everybody just seems way more self-reliant and free out there. Nobody f*cks with you and just leaves you alone to do what you need to do.

Of course, I like most people watched the Dick Proenneke (Alone in the wilderness) movie, and want to pretend I wouldn't have been dead in the first week. Lol.

 

[Skinny]

Pulling the trans is a lot of extra work to not really expose anything to clean. Nothing that some simple green and a hose wouldn't take care of.

 

[Russm]

I just did mine, in the Fairbanks winter, in my garage.
Its not hard and not that easy either. There are videos on youtube. I followed one of them.
I did not need to drop trans or jack my front end up, only the flywheel bottom cover had to come off. You may need to manually rotate the engine to get the pistons to clear the front of the oil pan so it just pulls out.

Once mine is all fixed you may see me around town, lifted camo 1009

 

[ssdvc]

All of you guys are wrong! It's not leaking, it's just marking its territory!

Mine seems to be heavily marking it's territory. I need to do the main rear seal, the output seal for the driveshaft yoke coming out of the transfer case and and find the new leak on my newly rebuilt trans, which is really starting to piss a good amount of fluid on my garage floor.