Mep-804A fuel Issues

[Buster1528]

Hello everyone, I'm new to this site. Just picked up a 94 Mep-804A. Checked all fluids and Installed new batteries tried starting no fuel coming out of injector lines. It has fuel coming out of bleeders. So I opened the inspection port and tried moving the rack manually to open position not budging . Any ideas on how to free it up?

 

[Guyfang]

Put it back together. Use the hand pump to prime the fuel system. Pump until it spews fuel at the output side of the hand pump. Tighten the fitting back up. Loosen the output side of the fuel filter. Hand pump. When fuel comes out, tighten the fitting. Loosen the last injector line at the injector and have someone turn the engine over. May have to do it a few time. If you do not get fuel coming out someplace, you need to start looking from there back. Have you down loaded the TM's and read at least the -10 TM?

Please enter you city/town in the location block.

 

[Buster1528]

Yes I just downloaded the TM this evening. Thank you

 

[Buster1528]

Put it back together. Use the hand pump to prime the fuel system. Pump until it spews fuel at the output side of the hand pump. Tighten the fitting back up. Loosen the output side of the fuel filter. Hand pump. When fuel comes out, tighten the fitting. Loosen the last injector line at the injector and have someone turn the engine over. May have to do it a few time. If you do not get fuel coming out someplace, you need to start looking from there back. Have you down loaded the TM's and read at least the -10 TM?

Please enter you city/town in the location block.

Put it back together. Use the hand pump to prime the fuel system. Pump until it spews fuel at the output side of the hand pump. Tighten the fitting back up. Loosen the output side of the fuel filter. Hand pump. When fuel comes out, tighten the fitting. Loosen the last injector line at the injector and have someone turn the engine over. May have to do it a few time. If you do not get fuel coming out someplace, you need to start looking from there back. Have you down loaded the TM's and read at least the -10 TM?

Please enter you city/town in the location block.

 

[Guyfang]

Whats up partner?

 

[Buster1528]

Whats up partner?

I did what you instructed me to do. Still no fuel coming out of injector lines. I took the lines off at the pump . And it looks like there is old diesel that turned into a heavy oil just laying in there. And I still can't move the fuel shut off manually it seems froze up. I'm thinking if that fuel shut off isn't moving forward to allow fuel to the injector lines because it's stuck in off positions.

 

[Guyfang]

Normally, when the set is shut down, it will go to full fuel OFF. If the IP is gummed up, then that could be the reason its stuck in the off position. You can also take the electric actuator off, (Pay attention how it comes off. Put it back on the same way.) and see if you can move the IP. Have you applied 24 VDC to the plug going to the Electric Actuator, to see if it moves the IP? Do this first, before taking off the actuator. Do not adjust anything on the linkage, unless you read first how to, in the TM. Its set at the factory, and if you knob dick it out of adjustment, it will only screw you up more.

 

[Buster1528]

Normally, when the set is shut down, it will go to full fuel OFF. If the IP is gummed up, then that could be the reason its stuck in the off position. You can also take the electric actuator off, (Pay attention how it comes off. Put it back on the same way.) and see if you can move the IP. Have you applied 24 VDC to the plug going to the Electric Actuator, to see if it moves the IP? Do this first, before taking off the actuator. Do not adjust anything on the linkage, unless you read first how to, in the TM. Its set at the factory, and if you knob dick it out of adjustment, it will only screw you up more.

Ok thanks again ,I will get back to you soon with updates.

 

[Buster1528]

Well I got her up and running, I did everything you instructed me to do test wise. Ended up taking the actuator out and the rod that opens and closes and controls the engine speed was froze up. I took the injector lines off and took the pump apart right to where the delivery valves are. Every delivery valve was gummed up in stuck. I soaked those valves with Kroil penetratrating oil. Once I was able to remove all 4 I filled the pump with Kroil penetrating oil removed the bleeder valves and put the kroil in there. I let it sit for about a month keeping an eye on the level of penetrating oil. Then after a month of soaking I started to work that rod back and forth until it moved very freely. I reassembled everything and we had success. She runs like a champ. Thank you for all the pointers and advice.

 

[Buster1528]

Normally, when the set is shut down, it will go to full fuel OFF. If the IP is gummed up, then that could be the reason its stuck in the off position. You can also take the electric actuator off, (Pay attention how it comes off. Put it back on the same way.) and see if you can move the IP. Have you applied 24 VDC to the plug going to the Electric Actuator, to see if it moves the IP? Do this first, before taking off the actuator. Do not adjust anything on the linkage, unless you read first how to, in the TM. Its set at the factory, and if you knob dick it out of adjustment, it will only screw you up more.

Pump was gummed up

 

[Guyfang]

Thank you for the feed back. That happens less and less.

 

[4WD]

Well I got her up and running, I did everything you instructed me to do test wise. Ended up taking the actuator out and the rod that opens and closes and controls the engine speed was froze up. I took the injector lines off and took the pump apart right to where the delivery valves are. Every delivery valve was gummed up in stuck. I soaked those valves with Kroil penetratrating oil. Once I was able to remove all 4 I filled the pump with Kroil penetrating oil removed the bleeder valves and put the kroil in there. I let it sit for about a month keeping an eye on the level of penetrating oil. Then after a month of soaking I started to work that rod back and forth until it moved very freely. I reassembled everything and we had success. She runs like a champ. Thank you for all the pointers and advice.

Good work. Glad it paid off.

 

[Buster1528]

Thank you for the feed back. That happens less and less.

Yeah I like helping with information I can help with. So if I asked i like to get back to whoever helped with the outcome of the situation to better help others. Thanks again

 

[robertsears1]

Another thing to watch for on the 804 is the MPU (magnetic pickup) either failing or getting funk on the end of the magnet. If you do not start to see white puffs out the exhaust after a few seconds of cranking, it is not getting fuel and it usually turns out to be a MPU issue. Search MPU and you will find several threads. What do you plan to power with this set? It only puts out three phase at either 208 or 416 volts. You can tap off two legs to get single phase but the book says this can damage the unit. People have done this and I am not aware of any issues reported. I have found my 804b to be more robust than my 804a when powering some of my FDECUs (5 ton heat pump-field deployable environmental control unit) which need 60 amps/phase 208V. The b handles the inrush of current when the compressor comes on better than the a which tends to show a short fault. I have put around 800 hours on the b vs 140 on the a and I had to replace the manual pump once.

Robert

Robert

 

[Buster1528]

Another thing to watch for on the 804 is the MPU (magnetic pickup) either failing or getting funk on the end of the magnet. If you do not start to see white puffs out the exhaust after a few seconds of cranking, it is not getting fuel and it usually turns out to be a MPU issue. Search MPU and you will find several threads. What do you plan to power with this set? It only puts out three phase at either 208 or 416 volts. You can tap off two legs to get single phase but the book says this can damage the unit. People have done this and I am not aware of any issues reported. I have found my 804b to be more robust than my 804a when powering some of my FDECUs (5 ton heat pump-field deployable environmental control unit) which need 60 amps/phase 208V. The b handles the inrush of current when the compressor comes on better than the a which tends to show a short fault. I have put around 800 hours on the b vs 140 on the a and I had to replace the manual pump once.

Robert

Robert

Probably resell it to someone who can use 3 phase. I have a friend that just works on the generator side he says he can get to put it out single phase. I heard it can be done and I heard it can't be done. I got it cheap not running condition. Someone that could use it out there.

 

[nextalcupfan]

Probably resell it to someone who can use 3 phase. I have a friend that just works on the generator side he says he can get to put it out single phase. I heard it can be done and I heard it can't be done. I got it cheap not running condition. Someone that could use it out there.

If I'm not mistaken the 804 or higher generators are 10 wire stators not 12 wire.
So in order to reconfigure it for 1 phase you would need to go all the way down to the stator and rewire it.

I'm not a generator tech though this is just what I've read from others on this site.

For reference the older 004 and higher generators had 12 wire stators, so they could be reconfigured fairly easily.

 

[Buster1528]

If I'm not mistaken the 804 or higher generators are 10 wire stators not 12 wire.
So in order to reconfigure it for 1 phase you would need to go all the way down to the stator and rewire it.

I'm not a generator tech though this is just what I've read from others on this site.

For reference the older 004 and higher generators had 12 wire stators, so they could be reconfigured fairly easily.

This generator has 12 wires

 

[Buster1528]

This generator has 12 wires

I will get back to you when my friend does whatever he plans on doing. I will share whatever info I get or what he does to it.