Elijah95’s Generator-welding trailer build

[Elijah95]

Alright ladies and gentleman, I’m going to make another build thread on something that I’ll probably never finish, because if you know me, I’m the worlds WORST procrastinator.
So let’s get started!

Scored up a MEP803A mounted on a M116A3, the hours were low, and the price was right! It was listed as a non runner, and we know how GP doesn’t like to let any money slide through the crack so I was expecting the worst. Measured my car hauler, and set sail to pick up the new toy. Unfortunately I can’t read a tape (or M1101 track width is narrower than a M116A3?) so the trailer wouldn’t fit between my fenders, so we set the Genset down in front of the trailer for a little tongue weight.
Hastily tossed some straps on and rolled back. Managed to keep the fuel bill cheaper with fill-ups averaging $4.48/gal, .50c cheaper than normal prices. Thanks Exxon. Got home, and loaded the generator back on the trailer using the old Toyota.


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[Elijah95]

Today, I decided to dive in and see why it didn’t run. Topped the coolant off, notice oil was slightly low but still within the fill lines so I hooked my slave to it and it rumbled to life instantly to only shut back down. Low oil pressure, peek my head around to see a puddle quickly growing from the oil filter.

After closer inspection, I find out the oil filter has a crack in it, so off to the parts store. I know most folks use a wix 51374 or similar and I just don’t like the little lawnmower sized filter, so I sprung for a larger wix 51515 with the same micron filtration rating.

I found out why the filter was cracked, Private Wrench tightened the filter so tight I broke a strap wrench, and decided to drive a punch through the filter and twisted it off. Seriously guys, gasket touch and 3/4 turn! Jk we all learn somehow. Finished the oil change, and fired it back up, purged cooling system, 60psi oil pressure cold, and hooked a load to it. No power!

Dug through the forums, and after experimenting finally held the outlet reset, started engine, battle short on, and threw the circuit closed. Viola! We’re hot. After this point, all systems worked normal the rest of the day without fail.

Ramped up to a 6kw load because it’s all I had, added a quart of ATF, some diesel kleen, and 8 gallons of fresh fuel and the slight skip in the engine worked itself out slowly. Seeing the signs of wetstacking around the muffler flange, I wasn’t disappointed when the smoldering carbon chunks began flying from the exhaust. The longer I ran it, the smoother it became.
Allowed it to run for 5 hours under load using the oven and other junk in the yard, taking advantage of it by seasoning some of the other half’s cast iron. Figured if I’m burning $2 every hour might as well make it useful right?






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[Elijah95]

Contemplation/To-Do’s:

I had picked up a nice M353 trailer a while back to build a mobile power plant/welding rig out of to clear up more space in storage. But this 116 is simply too clean and so much lighter to pass up, it was basically free so now I’m going to dump the M353, anyone want it?

Here’s my contingency plan,
1) build a waterproof locking enclosure out of 3/16? Steel to house my stick welder and separate mig welder on a slide out drawer to facilitate ease of maintenance and repair on them + associated supply storage, they will run off the generator.

2) Build a 10kw load bank ranging from 2kw to 10kw, this is where I need some ideas as I’m not willing to spend 1k plus on anything pre built, and working in HVAC I’m thinking about sourcing some sheetmetal duct work, a blower motor, and a 2kw-3kw-5kw heat strip with associated contactors I can get nearly free at work, mount it to the trailer and duct it upwards with I’m thinking a sheet metal cap on top to keep rainfall out of it. Ideas? Suggestions? If you have a better idea feel free to speak up, a prebuilt solution on the cheap side would be preferred.

3) auxiliary fuel tank. I’ve been parting out a couple trucks, and I have a clean stainless 50 gallon fuel tank from a 5 ton I can use, or a clean 60 gallon fuel tank from an MRAP (round, similar to a road truck) I can use, and tie into the auxiliary fuel fill function of the generator.

4) with the additions, I’ll likely need to add some bracing and additional sheet metal deck to the trailer somewhere to give floor space to fit said additions. Suggestions?

5) replace fuel sending unit with upgraded sender as it failed during my load bank testing.

6) look at mounting a spare underneath or on the back for safety sake as I have trust issues with the HMMWV style Goodyears. Suggestions?

7)** I’m out of breaker space in the house, and no way to tap in to add another breaker unless I eliminate something, I have little experience with doing so but I’m contemplating adding a plug point outside where the power meter is, so I can disconnect from the grid and safely power my house without energizing the lines during an outage. Suggestions??

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[nextalcupfan]

2) Build a 10kw load bank ranging from 2kw to 10kw, this is where I need some ideas as I’m not willing to spend 1k plus on anything pre built, and working in HVAC I’m thinking about sourcing some sheetmetal duct work, a blower motor, and a 2kw-3kw-5kw heat strip with associated contactors I can get nearly free at work, mount it to the trailer and duct it upwards with I’m thinking a sheet metal cap on top to keep rainfall out of it. Ideas? Suggestions? If you have a better idea feel free to speak up, a prebuilt solution on the cheap side would be preferred.

I'll post what I did for my load bank setup.
3 Comfort Zone CZ220 heaters, at the time I got them from my local tractor supply for around $80 each. CZ220 Amazon Link
Each one of these can be selected between 3-5kW, so with 3 you can go from 3-15kW in 1kW steps.
I wired 2 of them to NEMA 6-50P and 1 to a NEMA 14-50P with some 12/3 SJEOOW Portable Cord.

On the generator I drilled 4 holes (not gonna lie this was hard for me to do) and mounted a Siemens TL137US Talon Temporary Power Outlet Panel. Outlet Panel Amazon Link



I swapped the 120V receptacle on the bottom right for a 14-50R and mounted a box to the top with 2 water resistant 120V receptacles. Each outlet is on its own 20A breaker. Originally I was going to mount 2 boxes for 4 total 120V receptacles and have each box on its own breaker.
But I was tired of spending money on this and I realized I could just plug in a power strip if I had alot of low draw 120V devices.



Here is a video of it in action. (check description for time stamps)

Next I need to paint it so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.
Also was thinking of getting 5 of those super cheap round plastic amp meters Like These or These and putting them along the left side interior panel (where the gap is wider) and drawing lines to each circuit breaker so I know what each circuit is drawing.

 

[Chainbreaker]

7)** I’m out of breaker space in the house, and no way to tap in to add another breaker unless I eliminate something, I have little experience with doing so but I’m contemplating adding a plug point outside where the power meter is, so I can disconnect from the grid and safely power my house without energizing the lines during an outage. Suggestions??

If during a power outage you could manage to pull less than 40 amps/10000 watts you might could get by with the 40 amp service Generlink Transfer Switch. Generlink is Safe & easy to install if your Utility approves or they do it. Otherwise, you're gonna need the services of a licensed electrician to install a transfer panel.

 

[Elijah95]

Varistor and fuse installed, now there’s less worry about expensive failure! I’ll pick up a spare voltage regulator to have on hand for preparedness sake.



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[Elijah95]

@nextalcupfan

I like the setup, very clean


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[Elijah95]

If during a power outage you could manage to pull less than 40 amps/10000 watts you might could get by with the 40 amp service Generlink Transfer Switch. Generlink is Safe & easy to install if your Utility approves or they do it. Otherwise, you're gonna need the services of a licensed electrician to install a transfer panel.

Not a bad idea! However I’d like to be able to run the oven, water heater and ac unit. I’m currently tossing a soft start kit on the ac in preparation


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[Light in the Dark]

Varistor and fuse installed, now there’s less worry about expensive failure! I’ll pick up a spare voltage regulator to have on hand for preparedness sake.View attachment 861509
View attachment 861510


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Buy Kurt Klopp's VR. It can be found in the Classifieds. Better than OEM, and less expensive.

 

[nextalcupfan]

Not a bad idea! However I’d like to be able to run the oven, water heater and ac unit. I’m currently tossing a soft start kit on the ac in preparation


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Oven is a big consumer, especially if you use the oven and one of the big burners at the same time.
I also support the soft start AC, my A/C's LRA is 77A and it basically jumps whenever my AC turns on.
Actually I have APC UPS on all the sensitive electronics in my house and about half the time when the A/C turns on they kick in for a split second.

 

[Elijah95]

Wow, time flies and grief is a major hinderance to progress; I decided after procrastinating several months to get out there and swap the failed fuel sender with a Kus unit and also change the return lines. I’ll wrap up tomorrow hopefully






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[Light in the Dark]

I have that same KUS sender on the shelf for my personal machine when the time comes.

 

[Elijah95]

I have that same KUS sender on the shelf for my personal machine when the time comes.

Very happy with the quality and build of it. Glad I don’t have to pull the tank to change it either!


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[Elijah95]

@Light in the Dark
Do you know where to source one of these upper well nuts? Mine is falling apart and leaks when the generator is rocked during transport. Is there a “bulletproof” one? I remember some folks have great luck with bulkhead fittings on the lower well nut


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[Light in the Dark]

You can use the same ultimate well nut for this position too (its the same part as the lower tank drain). If you don't want to go through the effort, you can get the upgraded grey style here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224013193011

 

[Light in the Dark]

It seems the ultimate upgrade part is tough to find right now... not sure if these folks have stock: https://www.tank-depot.com/productd...-101627&campaignid=17864099643&keyword=101627

Needs a 3/4" washer with it too from memory, not included.

 

[Elijah95]

It seems the ultimate upgrade part is tough to find right now... not sure if these folks have stock: https://www.tank-depot.com/productd...-101627&campaignid=17864099643&keyword=101627

Needs a 3/4" washer with it too from memory, not included.

Thank you!


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[Elijah95]

As expected, the spin on fuel filter offered an excellent fight but it had to go; i was experiencing a strange issue where the Genset used to run a few hours trouble free under a load but when I ran it the other day for an hour and walked away it shut down on an oil pressure fault. Weird, so i start it back up, seems to be skipping slightly but oil pressure is excellent, 15 minutes in it exposes itself, starts smoking heavy black smoke, sputtering, load jumps from 50% to 120% and it bogs until it stalls then pops the oil pressure error light.
Runs ok unloaded but the skip comes and goes.

Checked the oil, clean, clear, no shavings in it, so my hunch was on fuel filter clogged and sure enough, it seems to have fixed it. 4 hours run time on it, no skip, running great! Thankfully it’s not algae as i keep a little biocide in the fuel along with a touch of ATF and diesel defender since no down time is acceptable


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