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Nissan Armada Springs

Maxjeep1

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Thank you for bringing me back to reality...yes the 2" spring + 2" body lift seems the way to go, I just didn't want to do spacers over springs and just use the right springs. What is the approximate curb weight of your truck? (not sure what exact model you have)
Lol. You don’t want a 3/4” spacer and you are calling Nissan springs the “Right” springs? I’m not opposed to it but it still sounds funny. I will use the 3/4” spacer unless coolboatguy hooks me up with his coil overs.
 

T9000

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Lol. You don’t want a 3/4” spacer and you are calling Nissan springs the “Right” springs? I’m not opposed to it but it still sounds funny. I will use the 3/4” spacer unless coolboatguy hooks me up with his coil overs.
From what I understand the spacers make the ride stiffer. Without doing the math and just reading Gilder's calculations of the spring rates, travel length, etc. it sounded like he had it dialed in to get the higher ride from the springs. I am not looking for a softer ride as mine are pretty good, but I also do not want stiffer coils than I already have, so if the Armada springs provide the 2" lift, that would be the "right" spring for me. My truck may be heavier than his (not sure) and ideally maybe I don't even have to cut the spring in order to compensate for the extra weight. Honestly I have no clue and I am just trying to get my mind around it for now, I am sure there are more details to be uncovered, and this being my escape from reality, I am having fun with it :)
 

Maxjeep1

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From what I understand the spacers make the ride stiffer. Without doing the math and just reading Gilder's calculations of the spring rates, travel length, etc. it sounded like he had it dialed in to get the higher ride from the springs. I am not looking for a softer ride as mine are pretty good, but I also do not want stiffer coils than I already have, so if the Armada springs provide the 2" lift, that would be the "right" spring for me. My truck may be heavier than his (not sure) and ideally maybe I don't even have to cut the spring in order to compensate for the extra weight. Honestly I have no clue and I am just trying to get my mind around it for now, I am sure there are more details to be uncovered, and this being my escape from reality, I am having fun with it :)
For what it’s worth my stock m1123 looked to be the same height as coolboatguy’s truck with the rear Nissan springs and a 2” body lift. I didn’t notice it until he pointed it out
 

T9000

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For what it’s worth my stock m1123 looked to be the same height as coolboatguy’s truck with the rear Nissan springs and a 2” body lift. I didn’t notice it until he pointed it out
You are bringing up an important point about the existing height...my REV (some call it REV B) truck is at about 26" to 26.50" from center wheel to the fender (which would be higher than coolboat's 25" or so, IIRC), same height front and rear and I am trying to figure out if my springs are already longer or how did they get the height besides the factory body lift of about one extra inch. And then the question is what springs would work with my truck to provide the extra 2" lift, so I still have ways to go.

EDIT: Or I could just install the spring spacers and call it a day...from what I hear the stiffer ride will break my kidney stones too lol
 

Maxjeep1

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You are bringing up an important point about the existing height...my REV (some call it REV B) truck is at about 26" to 26.50" from center wheel to the fender (which would be higher than coolboat's 25" or so, IIRC), same height front and rear and I am trying to figure out if my springs are already longer or how did they get the height besides the factory body lift of about one extra inch. And then the question is what springs would work with my truck to provide the extra 2" lift, so I still have ways to go.

EDIT: Or I could just install the spring spacers and call it a day...from what I hear the stiffer ride will break my kidney stones lol
Throw a spacer on it and call it a day. It’s like 123.00 add a body lift and you have 4”. I ordered the upper body bushings and I will stack 2 of them to get my 2” and they were like 6.70 from AM General. I just seen they are 38.00 now. I ordered 12 of them and I should’ve got 24
 

T9000

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You are right, that would be the path of least resistance and can always change it later if needed. One thing I have to figure out is a spacer that would lift & secure the nose (to match the hood body lift), which on my truck is separated from the hood and it is currently secured to the winch plate.
I am curious to hear your thoughts about how the ride changed after you added the spacers, if there is any change.
 

Maxjeep1

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You are right, that would be the path of least resistance and can always change it later if needed. One thing I have to figure out is a spacer that would lift & secure the nose (to match the hood body lift), which on my truck is separated from the hood and it is currently secured to the winch plate.
I am curious to hear your thoughts about how the ride changed after you added the spacers, if there is any change.
My truck rides really good. I’m only going to level the front end and I have the spacers but I bought a M1165 and I’m on a holding pattern until I get it because I might use the spacers on it.
 

T9000

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My truck rides really good. I’m only going to level the front end and I have the spacers but I bought a M1165 and I’m on a holding pattern until I get it because I might use the spacers on it.
Congratulations on the new truck! That's what I have also (I presume it's the M1165A1) . I have a lot of other things to do, and will follow your progress if you don't mind.
Check out these guys at RubberDuck, in addition to the spring spacers they also added an upper ball joint shim to correct the geometry, and they claim that their strategy maximizes the lift to 3":

1648016094491.png

1648016137236.png

Their price is crazy at $2500, but those ball joint shims sound like a good idea, if they would sell them.


Here is the whole article (it sounds like a sales job, but some of the info is good):

 
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Maxjeep1

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Congratulations on the new truck! That's what I have also (I presume it's the M1165A1) . I have a lot of other things to do, and will follow your progress if you don't mind.
Check out these guys at RubberDuck, in addition to the spring spacers they also added an upper ball joint shim to correct the geometry, and they claim that their strategy maximizes the lift to 3":

View attachment 862343

View attachment 862344

Their price is crazy at $2500, but those ball joint shims sound like a good idea, if they would sell them.

Here is the whole article (it sounds like a sales job, but some of the info is good):

Are you trying to run 42’s? I don’t know what I have but my truck is in between the old and the revised models. F20CC331-C2E8-4077-8DB7-8581DAE20C88.jpeg
 

T9000

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Yea, looks really good! It appears that they used the same or a similar spring spacer and upper ball joint shim:

1648018158162.png

And here is the body lift spacer. Some say that as you go higher, the spacer should be stiffer than the standard ones, otherwise it changes the dynamics of the chassis vs frame and how the truck feels:

1648018229525.png
 

Maxjeep1

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I have changed my goals so much since I got my truck. I wanted a real gloss black paint job and 40’s but you are limited because of rim size so it made me think about 42’s after spending some time with my truck I will do the front shim and some Baja’s on 24 bolts. My new M1165 I don’t know what I’m going to do.
 

Mogman

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Last edited:

coolboatguy

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I have been reading all your posts about the Armada springs (in another thread also) for a while and maybe you could provide some guidance... my truck is stock and there is about 26" to 26.5" from the center wheel to the fenders, same distance in the front and back, on a 12.1k chassis, with a listed curb weight of about 7,800 lbs (but that could be including some armor of which, part of it was removed, so the truck may be lighter, I will weight it soon).
Would any of these springs provide about a 4" lift? I presume the stock shocks will have to be replaced too?
I was looking to get the adjustable Cepek shocks, would those work or need something different?

Thanks!
2 inch/4 inch. It doesn't matter. 27.5-28" is max. That means the shafts are rubbing the cups on the cv axles. The ball joints are near their limits. The rubber inside the arm bushings are most likely shot. The camber is damn near unadjustable. And it's going to ride like shit no matter what springs you put on them.

Jack up the rear of the truck, remove an upper shock bolt. Loosen all the control arm bolts. Then measure. that will be your max. Subtract an inch1¹ for the driver front.

And yes, to clarify, I have an m998 with a 2 inch body lift.

The eye to eye length of the shock is another measurement you could use. 16.5 is max.
 
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coolboatguy

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Im looking at doing the nissan armada spring lift in the front of my m1123 with two man soft top and two soft doors. anyone have a lift to the 4x4 armada springs they used?
The springs without spacers are pretty close to maximum suspension lift before they settle in a bit.
 
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