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Steering Wheel Center

cjd

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Rep of Texas
In general I have been impressed with the mx done to my M1123 before I got it. Then, there is the steering wheel. When driving straight, the steering wheel angle is all wonky, and there is a white line painted on the hub to show where straight is. I'll fix the alignment, but the question then is, "how should the wheel be when centered?" One spoke up or one spoke down?
 

Action

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East Tennessee
In general I have been impressed with the mx done to my M1123 before I got it. Then, there is the steering wheel. When driving straight, the steering wheel angle is all wonky, and there is a white line painted on the hub to show where straight is. I'll fix the alignment, but the question then is, "how should the wheel be when centered?" One spoke up or one spoke down?
I put spoke up, because i can hang on to the one around the 4 oclock spot.
 

Milcommoguy

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I don't think you get a choice. The splines allow only one fit up. Pretty much the same thru-out all the u-joint connections right out to the pitman arm. TM states spoke down centered with equal turns to the left stop and same to the right stop at hub stop bolts. Wonkie part is the proper tie rod balancing act to meet the toe adjustment with left and right rotation to get the center spoke center down.

It's a little work back and forth to get it dialed in and I bet most are wonkie.

Wonkie describes HumV's in a word. Wonkie, I use it all the time, CAMO.
 

Milcommoguy

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The splines on the steering wheel are keyed but rangethe splines on the steering shaft on the other end of the steering column are not. It is easy enough to remove the column and rotate the wheel to your desire and then put the column spline back on where you want it.
Thanks for the correction. (y)

Well...I had that wrong. 🚫 When I was messing with the steering I just follow the TM and can't remember pulling those joints. I do remember a TM statement as to the position of the spokes.

Doesn't matter I guess...as long as it steers between the lines 🛣, CAMO
 

Autonomy_Lost

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Location
Pennsylvania
I recently did this to mine. My issue with the orientation is that one of the "spokes" always ended up blocking my view of the speedometer. I was able to rotate it with one spoke at the 12 oclock position (well, close anyway) and now it's much easier to see the speedometer when I'm driving down the road.

I will say that while it was easy to pull off the steering wheel, after I reinstalled it it's much tighter. I believe the splined shaft is tapered, so if you really crank down on the retaining nut the steering wheel will get tight to the point that you can no longer remove it by hand. They do make a "steering wheel" puller tool to assist in this case.

EDIT: I'm an idiot, see my posts below which explain why it was tighter when I reinstalled it. Don't do this.
 
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TNDRIVER

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Cleveland,TN
Thanks for the correction. (y)

Well...I had that wrong. 🚫 When I was messing with the steering I just follow the TM and can't remember pulling those joints. I do remember a TM statement as to the position of the spokes.

Doesn't matter I guess...as long as it steers between the lines 🛣, CAMO
Three degrees of caster helps!
 

springer1981

Well-known member
844
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Location
Maine
I recently did this to mine. My issue with the orientation is that one of the "spokes" always ended up blocking my view of the speedometer. I was able to rotate it with one spoke at the 12 oclock position (well, close anyway) and now it's much easier to see the speedometer when I'm driving down the road.

I will say that while it was easy to pull off the steering wheel, after I reinstalled it it's much tighter. I believe the splined shaft is tapered, so if you really crank down on the retaining nut the steering wheel will get tight to the point that you can no longer remove it by hand. They do make a "steering wheel" puller tool to assist in this case.
yes, standard steering wheel puller. That is what the 2 threads bolt holes on each side of the steering wheel nut is for.

More concerning is it sound like you rotated the steering wheel on the shaft and Forced it back on where it doesn't belong. The spline on the shaft for the steering wheel has a notch in it and it is only suppose to fit in 1 place. You can't just take it off and rotate to where you want. Or in this case I guess you can but you damaged something in doing it this way.
 

Autonomy_Lost

Well-known member
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Location
Pennsylvania
yes, standard steering wheel puller. That is what the 2 threads bolt holes on each side of the steering wheel nut is for.

More concerning is it sound like you rotated the steering wheel on the shaft and Forced it back on where it doesn't belong. The spline on the shaft for the steering wheel has a notch in it and it is only suppose to fit in 1 place. You can't just take it off and rotate to where you want. Or in this case I guess you can but you damaged something in doing it this way.
Then mine must be different than yours. When I took the steering wheel off it clearly had female splines all the way around and it wasn't keyed for a particular orientation. Same with the male splines on on the steering wheel shaft.

EDIT: Maybe I'm wrong? I did some research and looked at pictures, it almost looks like the splines skip one tooth, which is easily overlooked and wont do much to prevent forcing it on the wrong way. I'll have to pull my steering wheel and check it.
 
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springer1981

Well-known member
844
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Location
Maine
Then mine must be different than yours. When I took the steering wheel off it clearly had female splines all the way around and it wasn't keyed for a particular orientation. Same with the male splines on on the steering wheel shaft.

EDIT: Maybe I'm wrong? I did some research and looked at pictures, it almost looks like the splines skip one tooth, which is easily overlooked and wont do much to prevent forcing it on the wrong way. I'll have to pull my steering wheel and check it.
Your edit is correct. Skips 1 spline on both.
 

springer1981

Well-known member
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Location
Maine
Well that's concerning, I've been driving around for quite awhile that way. I don't think there's a chance that it will slip, but I'd rather it be correct. I'll pull it and inspect for damage.
I don't think you have a safety issue, you have a force fit issue. Good rule of thumb is "If it doesn't fit, Force it. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway".
 
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