M37 Acceration problem

[Stalzer83]

I have a 53 M-37 have owned it for 15 years. Hasn't been driven for a few years. When it was parked it had a dead spot off idle. I just pulled it out of the shed to work on it. I purchased a new carb kit from Mikes carburetors. Polished up the accelerator pump and the bore. Checked the compression all 6 cylinders see 112 lbs. Pulled distributor cap set the points to .20. Put everything together and still have the dead spot. When i take the top of the carb off and push accelerator pump down it does squirt gas out but I just don't think the vacuum is pulling up. I can look down the carb with air cleaner off and no gas is being squirted out off a idle. Any help with this issue would be much appreciated
Thanks

 

[GopherHill]

The accelerator pump works off engine vacuum. Check the carburetor mount gasket for leak. Put a vacuum Guage on the engine and see what you have. All vacuum connections ok, even at the fuel pump?
You might try a little mixture adjustment on idle mixture screw.

 

[Stalzer83]

The accelerator pump works off engine vacuum. Check the carburetor mount gasket for leak. Put a vacuum Guage on the engine and see what you have. All vacuum connections ok, even at the fuel pump?
You might try a little mixture adjustment on idle mixture screw.

I did spray all gaskets around the carb with either had no leaks. I will get a vacuum gauge and report back.

 

[Stalzer83]

I did spray all gaskets around the carb with either had no leaks. I will get a vacuum gauge and report back.

Whats the place to check vacuum at on the manifold

 

[GopherHill]

Some have a pipe plug. Otherwise disconnect pcv fitting and use that.

 

[Stalzer83]

The accelerator pump works off engine vacuum. Check the carburetor mount gasket for leak. Put a vacuum Guage on the engine and see what you have. All vacuum connections ok, even at the fuel pump?
You might try a little mixture adjustment on idle mixture screw.

Can you tell me what the points Gap should be and what the float level of Carb should be. Right now the thing is setting in my headed shop at 60 degrees and it starts very hard cold. It acts like its flooding itself out the only way i can start it is have to hold my foot to the floor no chock and crank for a long time. Finally when it starts its flooded when it cleans out runs good. The new carb kit i installed come from Mikes Carbs and the needle and seat is a fixed needle. The current one that was in it before i rebuilt the old one had a spring needle and seat.

 

[Mullaney]

Can you tell me what the points Gap should be and what the float level of Carb should be. Right now the thing is setting in my headed shop at 60 degrees and it starts very hard cold. It acts like its flooding itself out the only way i can start it is have to hold my foot to the floor no chock and crank for a long time. Finally when it starts its flooded when it cleans out runs good. The new carb kit i installed come from Mikes Carbs and the needle and seat is a fixed needle. The current one that was in it before i rebuilt the old one had a spring needle and seat.

.
Point Gap should be .020 as best I recollect.
A matchbook cover thickness works well.

While you have the cap off, turn it over and see if the contacts are good an clean. No white fuzzy stuff in there... And the rotor button should be clean too. Does the button in the center of the cap still "stick down" low enough to touch the "springy part" of the rotor button?