• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Any Good Diesel Mechanics in Southern California??

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA


I’ve asked this before, I have to ask again. Does any one know of any good diesel mechanics in Southern California? I have an M1009 CUCV

I have had nothing, but horrible results with all the ones I’ve already tried. Thank you if you have any info.
 

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
You live in a state that hates Diesel trucks especially ones without emissions, or any non-electric vehicle unfortunately. I'm sure the good diesel mechanics left to go to a state that appreciates diesels.

That being said, I would go to a truck stop (during the day) and perhaps ask the people around there if they know good diesel mechanicsif nobody here knows.
 

Lil Pete

Member
19
52
13
Location
California
Be the mechanic you seek...young Truckwalker. :)
and ask your favorite independent mechanic and fellow diesel owners for guidance.
I have a machine shop that doesn't want to rebuild a 6.2!!??
My kid hit a tree, I found a frame doner (Praise the LORD!), 9months later all better. And nobody got hurt.
The local body shop wanted $12.000 to do the frame swap.
Do it yourself.....MERICA!!
 

Attachments

Lil Pete

Member
19
52
13
Location
California
BTW, I grew up in Santa Ana. There's got to be some good old mechanics and machine shops around you. Maybe machine shops could give some direction.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Be the mechanic you seek...young Truckwalker. :)
and ask your favorite independent mechanic and fellow diesel owners for guidance.
I have a machine shop that doesn't want to rebuild a 6.2!!??
My kid hit a tree, I found a frame doner (Praise the LORD!), 9months later all better. And nobody got hurt.
The local body shop wanted $12.000 to do the frame swap.
Do it yourself.....MERICA!!
.
Very well said @Lil Pete !

There are people who will help you figure out things @jplace1011 .
Your answers will not be instant, but with patience somebody here can point you in a forward direction.

All it requires from you is a set of dirty hands willing to turn a wrench or two and time.
Benefit is when you do the job, that knowledge can never be taken from you.

Just in case - maybe spell out with pictures what needs to be repaired. Or possibly the symptoms?

.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
.
Very well said @Lil Pete !

There are people who will help you figure out things @jplace1011 .
Your answers will not be instant, but with patience somebody here can point you in a forward direction.

All it requires from you is a set of dirty hands willing to turn a wrench or two and time.
Benefit is when you do the job, that knowledge can never be taken from you.

Just in case - maybe spell out with pictures what needs to be repaired. Or possibly the symptoms?

.
Thank you for all of the advice! I apologize for taking so long to answer. Tapatalk wasn’t alerting me that I have responses.

As far as what needs to be repaired on my M1009. I had the Water Pump and the Plate that Sits behind it replaced last August. I’ve already started to see a small leak from the bottom of the Water Pump. I suspect maybe the bolts didn’t get tightened all the way (possibly when they recently replaced the harmonic balancer I may be way off) or as the current mechanic said, it looks like the gasket is leaking. Who knows if that’s true. I’ve now tried 5 local mechanics in the last year and half.




The other problem is the Rear Main Seal is leaking. That was replaced last March. Some of the very helpful gentlemen on here have said it’s likely the seal wasn’t positioned properly when the installed it and maybe they didn’t put oil on it either.

So those are two examples of repairs I’ve already had done. Now I have to get them repaired again. I don’t feel comfortable doing those repairs myself. I don’t have the experience, knowledge or tools for any of this.

This is why I’m hoping to find a Great mechanic or even better I wish I could find a local gear head to have mercy on me and tech me. I’d even be willing to pay, if it were reasonable.

Thanks again for your input and any further advice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
If you run a google search like this:
"Location:" CA site:steelsoldiers.com

or

"Location:" California site:steelsoldiers.com

I'm only seeing 2 if I run this (which isn't a good sign):
"Location:" CA site:steelsoldiers.com/members

..but one of them is a mod and might know and maybe ask them if they live near you and can help.

There may be an easier way to find all of the members of this forum from a particular state. I don't know if there is though.
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
If you run a google search like this:
"Location:" CA site:steelsoldiers.com

or

"Location:" California site:steelsoldiers.com

I'm only seeing 2 if I run this (which isn't a good sign):
"Location:" CA site:steelsoldiers.com/members

..but one of them is a mod and might know and maybe ask them if they live near you and can help.

There may be an easier way to find all of the members of this forum from a particular state. I don't know if there is though.
From what you describe as your problems, In my opinion, you don't need a specific diesel mechanic to correct your issues. A top seasoned veteran engine mechanic can solve all of your issues. Just print out the information from the training manuals for fixing your issues, and if the mechanic feels a need to access this information then you will have it.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
113
Location
Charlotte NC
From what you describe as your problems, In my opinion, you don't need a specific diesel mechanic to correct your issues. A top seasoned veteran engine mechanic can solve all of your issues. Just print out the information from the training manuals for fixing your issues, and if the mechanic feels a need to access this information then you will have it.
.
True @ezgn !

Most all fossil fuel vehicles have a rear main seal and a water pump. The water pump is definitely common and normal. The rear main repair would be the same as a small block Chevy. AND like you said both of those aren't diesel specific...
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
.
True @ezgn !

Most all fossil fuel vehicles have a rear main seal and a water pump. The water pump is definitely common and normal. The rear main repair would be the same as a small block Chevy. AND like you said both of those aren't diesel specific...
Great idea, looking for other Southern California Members!

I was thinking that these two repairs could be done by a traditional/regular engine mechanic. The irony is that a regular mechanic replaced the rear main engine seal!

He has great reviews on Yelp, I suspect he’s never worked on other K5’s and doesn’t know about the whole having to install the Rear Main Seal at an Off Set angle. His hourly rates are good, my buddy went to high school with him, etc. Still I think if I take it back to him will it be just another chance for him to screw it up again?? I have a great YouTube how to video for him to watch!

Maybe I could watch him do it, and make sure it’s installed offset. Just thinking out out loud here.

Have any of you replaced the Rear Main Seal? I’d love for you to verify the video instructions are correct. Others have said there are some incorrect how to videos out there.

This is a backyard mechanic:

This is a shorter video by a guy in a shop:



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
Great idea, looking for other Southern California Members!

I was thinking that these two repairs could be done by a traditional/regular engine mechanic. The irony is that a regular mechanic replaced the rear main engine seal!

He has great reviews on Yelp, I suspect he’s never worked on other K5’s and doesn’t know about the whole having to install the Rear Main Seal at an Off Set angle. His hourly rates are good, my buddy went to high school with him, etc. Still I think if I take it back to him will it be just another chance for him to screw it up again?? I have a great YouTube how to video for him to watch!

Maybe I could watch him do it, and make sure it’s installed offset. Just thinking out out loud here.

Have any of you replaced the Rear Main Seal? I’d love for you to verify the video instructions are correct. Others have said there are some incorrect how to videos out there.

This is a backyard mechanic:

This is a shorter video by a guy in a shop:



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All you have to do is ask the guy if he off set the seal. If he is honest and says that he did not, then he should fix it for free. First make sure the seal is where the leak is coming from. The coolant leak may be coming from somewhere else. Check the thermostat for leaking, check the coolant hoses, check all the hose clamps and tighten if necessary. Ask you mechanic if he used thread seleant on the water pump bolts. Check the water pump bolts and tighten them up if needed. Clean up all the oil underneath the truck, tighten the oil pan bolts to spec. and inspect the clean areas for leaks after running for a short time.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
All you have to do is ask the guy if he off set the seal. If he is honest and says that he did not, then he should fix it for free. First make sure the seal is where the leak is coming from. The coolant leak may be coming from somewhere else. Check the thermostat for leaking, check the coolant hoses, check all the hose clamps and tighten if necessary. Ask you mechanic if he used thread seleant on the water pump bolts. Check the water pump bolts and tighten them up if needed. Clean up all the oil underneath the truck, tighten the oil pan bolts to spec. and inspect the clean areas for leaks after running for a short time.
@ezgn Thanks for responding buddy! I cleaned the water pump up and layed under it with the engine running. I could see the drip forming at the bottom of the pump, like in the picture. But I will take your advice and clean it all up and check again. It certainly won’t hurt.

My plan has been to see how the current Rear Main Engine Seal is positioned. I want to be there when whoever takes it apart to confirm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
@ezgn Thanks for responding buddy! I cleaned the water pump up and layed under it with the engine running. I could see the drip forming at the bottom of the pump, like in the picture. But I will take your advice and clean it all up and check again. It certainly won’t hurt.

My plan has been to see how the current Rear Main Engine Seal is positioned. I want to be there when whoever takes it apart to confirm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would make sure all the water pump bolts are tight. Easy 10 minute job. Guetintight. It can't leak from the bottom of the p[ump, it has to be leaking from a gasket, a bolt, or the weep hole. I would ask your mechanic if he used thread sealer on the pump bolts.
 
Last edited:

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I would make sure all the water pump bolts are tight. Easy 10 minute job. Guetintight. It can't leak from the bottom of the p[ump, it has to be leaking form a gasket, a bolt, or the weep hole. I would ask your mechanic if he used thread sealer on the pump bolts.
I can’t ask the mechanic about the water pump. He did the job about a year ago. I don’t ever want to go there or speak to him.

I picked up the CUCV today and once I got home I cleaned up all of the leaked oil around the oil pan and rear of the engine. The pics below are before I cleaned it up. I found a little wet oil on the cross piece under the harmonic balancer. Hopefully that’s just left over from before that part and the seal behind it were replaced.

I’m planning on driving it tomorrow and then checking for oil and coolant.


Here’s the oil:


It has made its way to the starter:



On a side note the mechanic forgot to put the top plate piece back onto the tops of the batteries. Seriously what is wrong with people?

How it was:


After I put the pieces back:



The interesting thing is I wasn’t able to find any coolant leaking. I’ll check again tomorrow.

You guys have mentioned tightening the water pump bolts. How many are there?

Did I circle all of them?

Left Side


Right Side



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
Download TM 9-2320-289-34 , page 3-183. 7 fasteners, 3 are studs mounting other brackets. These need removing before retorque of water pump fasteners.

The pump mounts to the water pump plate which is sealed to the crankcase cover/timing case with anaerobic sealant (red gel which is a thickened threadlocker type chemical).
20220615_212036.jpg20220615_212036.jpg
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Download TM 9-2320-289-34 , page 3-183. 7 fasteners, 3 are studs mounting other brackets. These need removing before retorque of water pump fasteners.

The pump mounts to the water pump plate which is sealed to the crankcase cover/timing case with anaerobic sealant (red gel which is a thickened threadlocker type chemical).
View attachment 870509View attachment 870509
I have the TM, I will look that up and print it out. Thank you for the TM number and the page numbers!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I have the TM, I will look that up and print it out. Thank you for the TM number and the page numbers!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
p.s. @ezgn I forgot to mention, I checked all the hoses, clamps, lines, etc. from the radiator, as well as the thermostat. I didn’t find any leaks. As I said before I’ll check again tomorrow after a drive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
1655382619174.png

That's an odd placement of the drain plug for the oil pan.
Different from the location of mine for sure.

Are you sure the washer on that is good, and oil simply isn't leaking out of the drain hole due to stripped threads or a bad seal?
 
Top