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Adding breakers to a MEP-802A?

K

kayak1

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I have ordered a DIN mount breaker for my MEP-802A.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08H1Q3V4Y
I am running #10 THHN2 with the 75C rating it's rated at 35 amps (40 amps at 90C).
I am going to make the internal connection from the MEP-802A to the breaker with #6 that I already have on hand.

I would have preferred a 30amp breaker, but for some reason, DIN breakers are plentiful at 32 amps and rare at 30 amp.

Had anybody added a breaker to their MEP-802a? If so where did you mount it?
 
Light in the Dark

Light in the Dark

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How are you tying this to your dwelling, by a breaker interlock? The overload circuitry in the set acts like a breaker, shedding the load if drawn over a certain amount, over a certain time.
 
K

kayak1

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Light in the Dark said:
How are you tying this to your dwelling, by a breaker interlock? The overload circuitry in the set acts like a breaker, shedding the load if drawn over a certain amount, over a certain time.
Click to expand...
It's going into a 50 amp breaker into an Outback Radian 8048a (the kit where it was pre-wired).

The thought with the breaker is just to keep code as it's job is to protect the wire between the 802A and the Inverter. Every comercial generator has a breaker to protect the wires, thus if insurance ever questions the box is checked. The full run inside the house will be in 3/4 EMT, outside I am still running 3/4 PVC conduit. I have taken Thursday and Friday off to continue the digging.

I currently have the Gen Input AC limit set to 20.5 AAC with the Generator running in Support mode.
Screen Shot 2022-06-29 at 9.27.51 PM.png

I have Kurt's very nice WIFI/2 Wire start installed in the 802A thus when it's turned on it should be running near it's rated load when it's used in anger.
 
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kayak1

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Guyfang

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K

kayak1

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Ordering breakers from MA shipped to Maine seems to have a sub 24 hour turn around.

I was able to get the 30 AMP Square D QOU230 breaker that is "QOU circuit breakers are UL Listed and CSA Certified"

QOU230 - Mini circuit breaker, QOU, 30A, 2 pole, 120/240VAC, 10kA | Schneider Electric USA

Schneider Electric USA. QOU230 - Mini circuit breaker, QOU, 30A, 2 pole, 120/240VAC, 10kA.
www.se.com www.se.com
PXL_20220704_222927204.MP.jpg

The squared D breaker is being used for the line connecting into the house. I also mounted a EU rated 20 AMP DIN mount breaker in the generator. It's connected to a 6-20 plug mounted on a plug next to the generator. That will just be used exercise the generator by charging a car. Pulling 16amps ~240v only showed a 60% load on the front panel. I am thinking of swapping the breaker and 6-20 plug with a L14-30 and just dialling back the charging current in the car.

My current issue is my Outback GS8048a inverter doesn't seem to like the power from the MEP.
With zero load the voltage is bouncing +-15-20 volts, but the hz is +-.1. I am suspecting that my inverter would like to see a more constant voltage.
Should the MEP-802a have a more constant voltage or do I need to look at upgrading my voltage regulator?

MA - MEP-802A, MEP-803A AC Voltage Regulator

MEP-802A & MEP-803A Voltage Regulators Replaces TRC 19580 88-21063 6110-01-363-0492 Features include: · Replacement for your defective or missing Voltage Regulator... or to have a spare on hand · Works in generators that have defective Quad Windings! · Supports the 802/803's Field Flashing...
www.steelsoldiers.com

Thanks -Jason
 
Light in the Dark

Light in the Dark

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You are seeing this voltage movement by a handheld meter at the lugs, the factory gauge, or where exactly? The voltage should be rock solid smooth.
 
K

kayak1

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K

kayak1

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Light in the Dark said:
I keep at least one of Kurts VRs in my parts bin for this very reason.
Click to expand...
Installed Kurts VR in my 802a, the hardest part was removing the sticky back from the cable labels.

That didn't fix my issue, I do now have my old VR as a spare (I will order a spare "MEP-802A & MEP-803A Frequency Trip Switch - S14" from Kurt if I ever get this working as I see that as being something that one will not be able to find in 10 years when Kurt retires from this).

I am still seeing a the voltage and frequency jumping around enough to where it still won't sync to the generator.

I used to have this working with my Honda EU2000i connected to a auto transformer then into the Outback Radian GS8048a. It took care of our needs if I was home but my wife can't start the Honda when I am not.

I took a ~30 second video of the screen showing what the GS8048a sees in terms of the input power from the generator:

Any idea of what I should attempt next? I would be glad to take other videos if that would be helpful.
 
Light in the Dark

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Is the hertz moving more than the .1hz you called out previously? Can you hear the engine RPM changing at all? Have you been through the -24 on the machine to read through "24. AC VOLTMETER (VOLTS AC) VOLTAGE FLUCTUATES." and "25. FREQUENCY METER (HERTZ) FREQUENCY FLUCTUATES."?
 
K

kayak1

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Light in the Dark said:
Is the hertz moving more than the .1hz you called out previously? Can you hear the engine RPM changing at all? Have you been through the -24 on the machine to read through "24. AC VOLTMETER (VOLTS AC) VOLTAGE FLUCTUATES." and "25. FREQUENCY METER (HERTZ) FREQUENCY FLUCTUATES."?
Click to expand...
The hertz moves a little, it's hard to tell if the RPM is changing. I have a laser rpm meter that I may be able to use to check to see if its stable or not. I will take a look at the -24 today.

Thanks again!
 
K

kayak1

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Light in the Dark said:
Is the hertz moving more than the .1hz you called out previously? Can you hear the engine RPM changing at all? Have you been through the -24 on the machine to read through "24. AC VOLTMETER (VOLTS AC) VOLTAGE FLUCTUATES." and "25. FREQUENCY METER (HERTZ) FREQUENCY FLUCTUATES."?
Click to expand...
Most of the items in the manual where taken care of with the new VR as that included a new potentiometer.

I think that leaves me to the frequency adjustment cable that could be the issue.

Looking at the -24 in figure 2-24 around item #1 my cable had two nuts that when I received the generator they were just floating and not even finger tight.
IMG_1539.jpg

I had tightened them (the green paint was already missing from before it arrived) when I first went through the generator. Do you have any suggestions on what to look for before spending $114.50 + shipping with GMG?
 
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kloppk

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I'd suggest checking the connections along the path of F+ & F- from the VR to the Exciter to be sure there isn't a poor connection along the path. Be sure to check the connections in the gen head for the exciter too. They got to/from a pair of double male lugs on a small board.
The path goes thru P5/J5 so check the contacts in that connector pair too.
 
Light in the Dark

Light in the Dark

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kayak1 said:
Most of the items in the manual where taken care of with the new VR as that included a new potentiometer.

I think that leaves me to the frequency adjustment cable that could be the issue.

Looking at the -24 in figure 2-24 around item #1 my cable had two nuts that when I received the generator they were just floating and not even finger tight.
View attachment 872482

I had tightened them (the green paint was already missing from before it arrived) when I first went through the generator. Do you have any suggestions on what to look for before spending $114.50 + shipping with GMG?
Click to expand...
Normally these cables either work, or fail... little ground in the middle in what I have seen. If you can pull it taught and have it hold RPM, you shouldnt consider replacing it. You would notice a failed cable as it would either not hold tension, or would back itself our rather quickly (or be frozen, and unable to adjust at all).
 
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