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Progress from North Eastern Maine

Jevon

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After a week of battery harassment, (pulsed repair cycling) the stupidly expensive Nato cubes clocked in at around 1000 amps per the old Snap-on load tester. After checking connections, vital fluids, and looking for nests (hornets specifically), I waited until the glow plug *wait* light shut off and turned the lever- instant diesel clatter ensued. (Such easy starting tells me that my 7.3 must have a fuel leak somewhere, hopefully, or the glow plugs are not all going nuclear.)
20220815_185232.jpg
The only gauge that failed to budge was the temp gauge. There is a chance that I didn't give the old diesel boat anchor a long enough warm-up.

The winch also has a wiring or solenoid issue as it reels out but does not reel in.

Forward and reverse got me around the yard- reverse more so as the turning radius acts like a stretched-out raked motorcycle.

As cool as boat cushions are, I intend to hit up the junkyard for Chrysler or Dodge leather seats.

2-4x8 sheets of 14 gauge steel shall be had for the intent of a removable 4-door top.

4-door side rails will arrive tomorrow, I probably bought those from someone here, lol. (ebay)20220815_192219.jpg
 

Mogman

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Maybe, BUT that was YEARS ago, and you have no idea if the personnel servicing it even knew what a HMMWV was, does not change my advice!
 

Jevon

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Maine
Maybe, BUT that was YEARS ago, and you have no idea if the personnel servicing it even knew what a HMMWV was, does not change my advice!
For a diesel, the oil is clean and the filter is obviously new. Engine running time is what breaks down oil, not worrying about it and I know this HMMWV has sat MOST of its Maine life in a heated fire station. Wherever it was before had some sort of Red sand everywhere. Hub oil, on the other hand, as well as assorted grease fittings, are true unknowns and those will be dealt with. Now if you were to pull the dipstick on the Detroit 3-53 two-stroke or the international Cargostar 9.0 liter, the inky darkness will drive you mental. I can change the first one over and over and over and still get a "shit, this oil looks horrid, I am going to slam another $200 on a Rotella T6 blood transfusion." I trust that whatever monkeys serviced the engine oil did so with the Precision of, at least, a Walmart technician, maybe even a VIP tech, lol.
 

Mullaney

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For a diesel, the oil is clean and the filter is obviously new. Engine running time is what breaks down oil, not worrying about it and I know this HMMWV has sat MOST of its Maine life in a heated fire station. Wherever it was before had some sort of Red sand everywhere. Hub oil, on the other hand, as well as assorted grease fittings, are true unknowns and those will be dealt with. Now if you were to pull the dipstick on the Detroit 3-53 two-stroke or the international Cargostar 9.0 liter, the inky darkness will drive you mental. I can change the first one over and over and over and still get a "shit, this oil looks horrid, I am going to slam another $200 on a Rotella T6 blood transfusion." I trust that whatever monkeys serviced the engine oil did so with the Precision of, at least, a Walmart technician, maybe even a VIP tech, lol.
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Have't done all the reading about your situation, but there are companies that can test that motor oil to figure out what kind of life is left in it. Or if it is contaminated with coolant or if it is just perfectly fine. Guessing you already know, but diesels make black motor oil in just a few hundred miles...
 

juanprado

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The black one is for electric warn winch. They have the same cannon dash plug.

You need yellow or rewire the black one for milemarker hydraulic winch. There are threads here on how to do it.
 

Mogman

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For a diesel, the oil is clean and the filter is obviously new. Engine running time is what breaks down oil, not worrying about it and I know this HMMWV has sat MOST of its Maine life in a heated fire station. Wherever it was before had some sort of Red sand everywhere. Hub oil, on the other hand, as well as assorted grease fittings, are true unknowns and those will be dealt with. Now if you were to pull the dipstick on the Detroit 3-53 two-stroke or the international Cargostar 9.0 liter, the inky darkness will drive you mental. I can change the first one over and over and over and still get a "shit, this oil looks horrid, I am going to slam another $200 on a Rotella T6 blood transfusion." I trust that whatever monkeys serviced the engine oil did so with the Precision of, at least, a Walmart technician, maybe even a VIP tech, lol.
You should change the motor oil and filter at least once a year no matter how many miles you have on it or how nice it looks
 

Mogman

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Because if you do not drive enough miles in a year to change it then that means you are not driving it enough to keep moisture and other contaminants from building up and the additive package also starts to deteriorate affecting the viscosity and cleaning ability.
 

Mogman

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Also folks that think they can use a synthetic oil and have extended change intervals are mistaken, the Detroits are very "dirty" engines compared to modern gas and diesel engines so the oil gets contaminated before the normal service life of synthetics is reached.
 

Maxjeep1

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Because if you do not drive enough miles in a year to change it then that means you are not driving it enough to keep moisture and other contaminants from building up and the additive package also starts to deteriorate affecting the viscosity and cleaning ability.
I had 20 year old oil that came out of my truck and it looked better than what I put in. I wish I would’ve had it tested. I have always thought like you and for the same reasons.
 

Mogman

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Oil and filters are CHEAP insurance, motor oil in the can only has a five year shelf life.
 
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