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My new project (M1009)

_Aragorn_7

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West Virginia
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There was a bad spot on the flex plate, so I dropped the transmission and replaced it. I am also going to repaint everything while I have the transmission out, as well as adding sound and heat insulation. Is there anything else i should do while i have the transmission out?





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I am also changing the rear output seal, bushing, and the speedo gear on the transfer case. The original speedo gearbox was missing.
 

DIVE DIVE

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Chesapeake, VA
View attachment 853773
There was a bad spot on the flex plate, so I dropped the transmission and replaced it. I am also going to repaint everything while I have the transmission out, as well as adding sound and heat insulation. Is there anything else i should do while i have the transmission out?





View attachment 853774

I am also changing the rear output seal, bushing, and the speedo gear on the transfer case. The original speedo gearbox was missing.
Hey there! Where did you find the output sleeve bearing? I got National part number 5208 (which contains seal 9449 and this sleeve bearing) from oreillys and the sleeve bearing OD is too small for the housing. Interestingly enough though, the bearing ID fits fine over the rear driveshaft, but it’s thinner than the original bearing so it slides right through the housing instead of being an interference fit because the OD is too small. Thank you for any help.
 

_Aragorn_7

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25
61
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Location
West Virginia
Hey there! Where did you find the output sleeve bearing? I got National part number 5208 (which contains seal 9449 and this sleeve bearing) from oreillys and the sleeve bearing OD is too small for the housing. Interestingly enough though, the bearing ID fits fine over the rear driveshaft, but it’s thinner than the original bearing so it slides right through the housing instead of being an interference fit because the OD is too small. Thank you for any help.
This is the one I bought.


I just got it put in and fit the transfer case perfectly.

Here is where I got the part number

 

_Aragorn_7

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Location
West Virginia
Well, it has been awhile since i updated anything here. But in the last 8 months I got the transmission tunnel painted and insulated.
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I got the transmission back in and it cranks over good now.

Next was just a bunch of body work.

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Replaced the driver's rear fender and both front wheel wells. I painted everything that i had access to while it was apart.

I then moved onto the interior. Patched a few holes and then primed and painted with a 383 substitute.

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Last week i painted the exterior.

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_Aragorn_7

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Location
West Virginia
Now there are only 3 things left to do before it is road worthy. The horn needs replaced, transmission/transfer case fluid needs changed, and the harmonic balancer is wobbling.

I started on the balanacer this week. Bought the fluidampr one and installed it, but there is still a wobble originating from the balancer (not the pulley). Can the crank be bent? or maybe i got a defective balancer?

I plan to get a dial indiactor and check the nose of the crank for see if it is straight and i will try and test the balancer with a indicator chucked in a lathe. If anyone has an idea please let me know.
 

Mullaney

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Now there are only 3 things left to do before it is road worthy. The horn needs replaced, transmission/transfer case fluid needs changed, and the harmonic balancer is wobbling.

I started on the balanacer this week. Bought the fluidampr one and installed it, but there is still a wobble originating from the balancer (not the pulley). Can the crank be bent? or maybe i got a defective balancer?

I plan to get a dial indiactor and check the nose of the crank for see if it is straight and i will try and test the balancer with a indicator chucked in a lathe. If anyone has an idea please let me know.
.
Well, I can imagine a balancer showing wiggle. After all, it is rubber supporting a ring of metal. Shouldn't be but it could happen. With a FluDamper that shouldn't he happening though. If you can set it up, a dial indicator on the crank should tell the story. Can't really imagine how that would happen without a heck of a thump against the crank. I did a quick web search and of course there is always somebody who says they've had that problem...
 

_Aragorn_7

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61
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Location
West Virginia
Well, I am stumped. The harmonic balancer spins perfect (as far as i can chuck it) on a lathe and the nose of the crank has no measurable bend in it. But when it is assembled it still wiggles. Not sure what else to do. It does not seem to vibrate, maybe i can just shim the pulley so the belts will stay tight. Here are 2 videos i tried to take of it running.


 

cucvrus

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OK from my view I am seeing a normal 6.2 diesel idling. Now slowly increase the RPM's and see if that belt stops bouncing, and everything aligns harmonically. That has been my experience. I had guys open the oil cap at idle and tell me the engine had excessive blow by. Then I would accelerate a little and the blow by was gone. At idle that 6.2 diesel is a rattle trap and makes fuel doors vibrate and will create all sorts of vibrations. No worries. Have a Great Day.
 
Last edited:

royalflush55

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Reydon, OK
The alternator pulley looks suspect to me. I would suggest a solid machined pulley instead of the stamped steel type like you have. Probably need one on the other side too. I would also try another crank pulley and compare it if you have one available.
 

ezgn

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Greetings from West Virginia,

I recently purchased (9/19/2021) a 1986 M1009 and plan to restore it. It is currently not running and a previous owner decided to start cutting and disconnecting wires for some reason, but the rust is not horrid and I got it pretty cheap. I know it has sat a long time, since there are trees that grew between the turn signals and the grill.

So far i am just trying to figure out what is all missing. I have noticed a few obvious things, like the starter, radiator, fan, hard transmission cooler lines, antenna mounts, Pinnell hitch, fuel filter/housing, and i am sure there is a bunch more. If anyone wants to show off their engine bay so i can get a visual representation of what mine should look like, I would appreciate it.

My search for a radiator that is in stock has been a struggle. The best i could find is this one from Summit and it will still take about a month to get here.


Also if anyone has any tips on what needs to be replaced due to age would be helpful.
Here is one from Amazon.https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7QIKW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
 

_Aragorn_7

Member
25
61
13
Location
West Virginia
The alternator pulley looks suspect to me. I would suggest a solid machined pulley instead of the stamped steel type like you have. Probably need one on the other side too. I would also try another crank pulley and compare it if you have one available.
I see what you are talking about. I will have to look into that.

I have 2 crank pulleys that i have tried, no change.
 
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