I just purchased an 2009 MEP-803A. I rolled the dice and bought a model that wasn’t test run bc it was missing a couple fuses. When I picked it up it was also missing the exhaust flap..unknown for how long. I’ve manually turned the motor over via the fan bolt with a socket. It moves smoothly for multiple turns until it hits a sticking point…that can’t be turned past. I don’t want to force it and do more harm. Thoughts? Could I have the top of a cylinder rusted? I removed the exhaust and see minimal soot, zero rust in the manifold. Engine only has 300hrs. All fluids were already drained when I purchased it. No water or additional oil came out when I attempted to drain before adding new oil. I’m stumped. Thanks in advance.
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2009 MEP-803A manually cranks, but hits stop
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Ray70
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Well, the exhaust flap missing is always a scary scenario, however you are able to rotate the motor some, so that is an excellent sign. Are you saying you ARE able to get multiple revolutions before it jams up?
If so, rust in the cylinders is most likely NOT the issue as it would bind with every revolution.
if you think it's jamming in the same spot with every revolution you could be hydrolocked, could have a bent valve, could be something broken in the bottom end, lots of possible causes.
Get us an accurate description of exactly how far it turns in either direction before it jams, but I think you will end up taking a few things apart to determine the cause. A little more detail will help us decide if you should pull the injectors, the valve covers, the head or the side cover.
If so, rust in the cylinders is most likely NOT the issue as it would bind with every revolution.
if you think it's jamming in the same spot with every revolution you could be hydrolocked, could have a bent valve, could be something broken in the bottom end, lots of possible causes.
Get us an accurate description of exactly how far it turns in either direction before it jams, but I think you will end up taking a few things apart to determine the cause. A little more detail will help us decide if you should pull the injectors, the valve covers, the head or the side cover.
Thanks for the reply. I was also thinking I may have water in a cylinder and it’s hydro locking. It’s free as a jaybird with what I would consider consistent compression until what feels like 3 solid rotations around on the fan socket. I may pull the injectors tomorrow and cycle to see if I get water to shoot out. It’s smooth when it rotates, no grinding or binding is apparent.
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Look up LPW4 as well. Plenty of gasket sets, cheap prices. Not OEM, but will work for what you want.
Ray70
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I see what you're doing now. You're turning the fan pulley which is much smaller than the crank pulley, so 1 revolution of the fan is no where near 1 revolution of the crankshaft.
Pull the injectors and see what you get and take it from there.
On the head gaskets I have used quite a few of the Chinese ones without any problems, but you should be able to buy real ones just as easily. In the past I had better luck with OEM Lister Petter parts by searching the UK's Ebay site. bought lots or OE parts on there. Search for both LPW4 and DN4M because results will often vary, but parts are identical.
Pull the injectors and see what you get and take it from there.
On the head gaskets I have used quite a few of the Chinese ones without any problems, but you should be able to buy real ones just as easily. In the past I had better luck with OEM Lister Petter parts by searching the UK's Ebay site. bought lots or OE parts on there. Search for both LPW4 and DN4M because results will often vary, but parts are identical.
Thanks! Yes, I had easier access to fan pulley, so I took it. I’ll report back after pulling those tomorrow. Thanks so much for your replies
Thanks! I’ll check it out
Gents, I pulled the injectors, valve covers, and manifold. No real substantial water in any location. Injectors we’re a little wet, but no rusting anywhere. Looking from the front of engine (fan side) I can get a socket on the main crank pulley and turn counterclockwise all day long through all cylinders full cycle. Going clockwise I hit a hard stop after appx 1 full circular cycle of the main crank nut. I assume it’s a clockwise spinning fan like every motor I’ve seen. The dead crank switch also does nothing.
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The blown piston would make a great conversational piece neatly placed on a coffee end table……
Petet
Petet
Ray70
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Pull the side cover, remove connecting rod cap and pull it out, lets see if the bore is damaged or not.
I've got spare pistons and rods if needed.
I've got spare pistons and rods if needed.
I have no idea how it’s possible, but the cylinder seems ok. I’ll hone it tomorrow, but it looks like the piston melted. Crazy.
Ray70, can you message me direct w contact information? I’ll need piston, rings, wrist pin, clips, and 2 x push rods (both bent and was the telling sign I had a piston issue). Thank you much! Now the tough question…do I go ahead and replace all the pistons despite the engine only having 300hrs…they look to be in good shape. All had standing water on top, but zero rust.
Ray70, can you message me direct w contact information? I’ll need piston, rings, wrist pin, clips, and 2 x push rods (both bent and was the telling sign I had a piston issue). Thank you much! Now the tough question…do I go ahead and replace all the pistons despite the engine only having 300hrs…they look to be in good shape. All had standing water on top, but zero rust.
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Ray70
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You are super lucky! There is no need to REPLACE the other pistons, but while you're there you could pull the other 3 and just make sure the rings are not stuck at all and inspect things.
Since you had water but no rust I would expect the rings to be free, but you are already 80% of they way there.... might want to consider going all the way while it's apart.
PM sent regarding parts you need.
Since you had water but no rust I would expect the rings to be free, but you are already 80% of they way there.... might want to consider going all the way while it's apart.
PM sent regarding parts you need.
Great advice. I’ll plan to knock that out tomorrow while honing the cylinder. Thanks for the help!
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Never, ever, not even a little bit, use the S-10 dead crank switch, if you think you have a internal problem. You can only make it worse. If it binds by hand, the starter has a bunch more "UMH" behind it then your arm. Bad things can happen.
Thanks! Yeah…it didn’t work because it was disconnected and made me start thinking it was a bad idea. Thanks for the reply