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Another newbie with a brake question

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Dixon77

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After a deep dive in the search with vague terms, I figured I'd ask
I've had my M109 for over a month and well over 1000miles, the brakes are becoming a concern. They stop the truck and the pedal travel hasn't changed. Problem is: it's an inch off the floor.
I drained the air tanks, checked all the wheels for leaks, pulled the inspection plug from the air pack and purged it. Nothing obvious. Holds air and no leaks other than around the gauge.
Before I order $800 worth of shoes/wheel cylinders/air pack/etc.......where should I check?

Thanks!
 
ToddJK

ToddJK

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In the TM, I do believe it's either 1 or 1.5" off the floor for minimal height. Any closer the brake system needs to be serviced. My brakes were touchy at first. With almost 9k miles later, the pedal travels a bit now, but it's still about 2" off the floor and that's a hard stop.
 
Darylfraser

Darylfraser

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As already stated, check your shoe adjustment first. That will make a big difference in pedal travel. But go through your brake system. These are heavy trucks and your brakes need to be up to snuff. The first thing I did with my Deuce was replace all the hydraulic components, wheels cylinders, master and hoses plus I rebuilt the air pack. This also gave me the opportunity to inspect, repack and reseal the axles. Fortunately my shoes and drums were like new with only 8000 or so miles on the truck. You don’t want to be driving that 7 ton behemoth around unless you are certain on the condition of the entire system. I probably have about the same, $800 or so into the brakes but I know the brakes are 100%.
 
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Dixon77

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I was on a weird shift and didn't get to it till yesterday. I was able to do the fronts since I'm waiting for my budd socket to arrive. The pads weren't too out (about 30) so I adjusted those out. Then did a look around of the axles. I found one rear and both front cylinders seeping. So I checked the fluid. Not quite bone dry but none to speak of. Refilled it with DOT5 and pumped the hell out of it under pressure. Now the pedal has 2"ish of travel and solid as a rock. Stops fantastic. Plus I drained the air system and oiled the air pack. So now I wait for the socket and do the rest before I drive it.
 
Darylfraser

Darylfraser

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Dixon77 said:
I was on a weird shift and didn't get to it till yesterday. I was able to do the fronts since I'm waiting for my budd socket to arrive. The pads weren't too out (about 30) so I adjusted those out. Then did a look around of the axles. I found one rear and both front cylinders seeping. So I checked the fluid. Not quite bone dry but none to speak of. Refilled it with DOT5 and pumped the hell out of it under pressure. Now the pedal has 2"ish of travel and solid as a rock. Stops fantastic. Plus I drained the air system and oiled the air pack. So now I wait for the socket and do the rest before I drive it.
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Go through your brakes. Wheel cylinders are plentiful and not that expensive. As are the brake hoses. NOS master cylinders can be reasonably. Airpack rebuild kits are available for both long and short as are the commonly rusted long cans. These are heavy trucks with hydraulic brakes and you want to be %100 on those brakes. If you’ve ever lost hydraulic pressure on a single circuit system, you’ll never want to do it again, I lost it once on a 1980 C60. Lots of fast shifting and the 2 speed rear didn’t like it. Not sure if you stated the year of your 109 but these parts could be 40-50 years old as they were on mine. Go through the TMs on this site. You will be pulling hubs, repacking bearings. New seals as well. Might as well do 1 piece knuckle boots whilst you are there. And the snowball begins! Get ready to spend some money and be covered with grease. It’s a labor of love!
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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You got lots of good info and help here in your thread. If I had to pick the two most important, that would be message #8 and #7. Getting smart, (#8) before doing anything on the truck should always be high on your list. Systematically going through, (#7) a system, like brakes, is always best. Start at the beginning, work through to the last. Do it one time right, and you will have assurance that its done, and done right. That's one less worry.
 
Mullaney

Mullaney

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Jagger16134 said:
New to this group and plan on creeping in the background, but have a question… is there anywhere to download or buy a hard copy of the 10,20,30 and 40 level manuals for my M109a2 I just purchased? Thx for any help in advance!
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A local gun show is a possibility.
That seems like the best place to get military TM's in person.
Otherwise, it is time to search on the bigger on-line sites.
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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I may be wrong, but the TM's you want are in thew TM download section.

The Deuce TMs

M35, M35A1, M35A2, M35A2C, M109A3, exc. Find TM's related to the M35 series trucks in this forum. - No posting of threads
www.steelsoldiers.com

There is a data plate in your truck that lists the operators TM. That series TM, has everything you want. It should all be there.
 
Mullaney

Mullaney

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Guyfang said:
I may be wrong, but the TM's you want are in thew TM download section.

The Deuce TMs

M35, M35A1, M35A2, M35A2C, M109A3, exc. Find TM's related to the M35 series trucks in this forum. - No posting of threads
www.steelsoldiers.com

There is a data plate in your truck that lists the operators TM. That series TM, has everything you want. It should all be there.
Click to expand...
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Yes Sir. I planned to say what you did @Guyfang , but the OP had asked for hard copy books.
 
J

Jagger16134

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Mullaney said:
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Yes Sir. I planned to say what you did @Guyfang , but the OP had asked for hard copy books.
Click to expand...
Here’s the data plate, but it only has 10 and 20 level listed… I was a “30 level” maintenance repairman in the army and want up to and including the 40 level tm if possible. 10 is operator level, 20 is first line maintenance, 30 is direct support level maintenance and 40 is advanced level maintenance (we had civilians do that level)
 

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