Might as well start a new thread for our mid season camping rig so she wont feel left out.
We went on a little trip a few weeks ago and discovered she was making oil. Ordered seal kit for the booster pump as I had already changed out the o ring at the fuel shut off. This was my experience on changing the seal.
Remove steering wheel, (take c clip out pry out the button, remove the 3 screws and plastic doohickie. back the big nut off till flush with the end of the threads, put an old socket on top of the nut, not over it and use your puller to pull wheel back to the nut. It might be stuck pretty good but wiggles off after it is free.
Remove column clamp, unbolt column from steering box and slide up about 6 inches. Use a pair of vise grips to hold column up and dont jack up the little shims between the steering box and the column housing like I did.
Remove the flame heater fittings all the way to the check valve or it will hit one of the bolt heads on the steering box. it was a PITA I had to drive on a short 9/16 socket, break it loose, drive socket off with a hammer and then spinn fitting off.
Remove the fuel lines. the fuel shut off cover and fuel shut off bridge.
Remove the inlet fitting from the fuel tank or it will hit on the throttle linkage gizmo when you roll it up. The outlet fitting can stay.
Remove the two 7/16 head bolts and 4 flat head screws and take cover off or pump will not clear when removing. be carefull not to drop the cover it is a machined fit and no gasket and dont loose the gear when it falls out on the ground.
Pull the pump housing back and rotate counter clockwise while wiggling the gear shaft back out of the housing a bit and saying a few choice words.
Dont mess up the paper gasket that goes between the punp and injector housing because you can re use it.
At the bench take the C clip off, If it flies off into never never land dont worry its jacked up anyway and there is a new one in the kit. pull the gear off , might have to help it with a small puller. DONT LOOSE THE KEY WAY. Its little and hard to see when it falls on the floor and bounces under the bench. Make sure you know which way is up on the gear when you pull it off. mine had an 8 on top nothing on the bottom. I really do not think it would reassemble well if it is upside down going back in, pull the shaft out and inspect, I had to put mine in a lathe and smoothe it out as it had wear marks from the old seal. I am still in the testing phase but I think it is sealing ok.
Put pump in vise and unscrew the check valve out of housing, mine was stuck in there pretty good, had to beat on the wrench with a hammer to free it up. there is a spring a little metal thingine that sits in the spring a fiber gasket then the o ring that goes on the valve body. the little thingie was stuck to the valve body. tap it free , clean it and install back together like it came apart with the new o ring and gasket.
Clean everything good with brake cleaner especially the little journal, it goes from behind where the seal sits to the gear housing. I just put the straw on the brake cleaner and squirted till clean.
I had to pull the rubber part of the seal out and roll the cup down with a small chisel and then pop it out. I did not see a way to tap out from the back side.
tap the seal in, oil up the shaft, poke her in and re assemble in reverse using more choice words. I just copper coated the old gasket and the machined surface of the pump cover and went back with it. I also plugged the check valve. I deleted the flame heater and wrapped it up for a Christmas present to one of the ex old ladies.
So it is possible and I would think a lot less headache than jacking the engine up and over. NOTE: if you have the replacement rubbber fuel line from Big Mikes, keep the loose end fitting up high, the fuel filter holds a lot of fuel and it is cold running down your shirt.
We went on a little trip a few weeks ago and discovered she was making oil. Ordered seal kit for the booster pump as I had already changed out the o ring at the fuel shut off. This was my experience on changing the seal.
Remove steering wheel, (take c clip out pry out the button, remove the 3 screws and plastic doohickie. back the big nut off till flush with the end of the threads, put an old socket on top of the nut, not over it and use your puller to pull wheel back to the nut. It might be stuck pretty good but wiggles off after it is free.
Remove column clamp, unbolt column from steering box and slide up about 6 inches. Use a pair of vise grips to hold column up and dont jack up the little shims between the steering box and the column housing like I did.
Remove the flame heater fittings all the way to the check valve or it will hit one of the bolt heads on the steering box. it was a PITA I had to drive on a short 9/16 socket, break it loose, drive socket off with a hammer and then spinn fitting off.
Remove the fuel lines. the fuel shut off cover and fuel shut off bridge.
Remove the inlet fitting from the fuel tank or it will hit on the throttle linkage gizmo when you roll it up. The outlet fitting can stay.
Remove the two 7/16 head bolts and 4 flat head screws and take cover off or pump will not clear when removing. be carefull not to drop the cover it is a machined fit and no gasket and dont loose the gear when it falls out on the ground.
Pull the pump housing back and rotate counter clockwise while wiggling the gear shaft back out of the housing a bit and saying a few choice words.
Dont mess up the paper gasket that goes between the punp and injector housing because you can re use it.
At the bench take the C clip off, If it flies off into never never land dont worry its jacked up anyway and there is a new one in the kit. pull the gear off , might have to help it with a small puller. DONT LOOSE THE KEY WAY. Its little and hard to see when it falls on the floor and bounces under the bench. Make sure you know which way is up on the gear when you pull it off. mine had an 8 on top nothing on the bottom. I really do not think it would reassemble well if it is upside down going back in, pull the shaft out and inspect, I had to put mine in a lathe and smoothe it out as it had wear marks from the old seal. I am still in the testing phase but I think it is sealing ok.
Put pump in vise and unscrew the check valve out of housing, mine was stuck in there pretty good, had to beat on the wrench with a hammer to free it up. there is a spring a little metal thingine that sits in the spring a fiber gasket then the o ring that goes on the valve body. the little thingie was stuck to the valve body. tap it free , clean it and install back together like it came apart with the new o ring and gasket.
Clean everything good with brake cleaner especially the little journal, it goes from behind where the seal sits to the gear housing. I just put the straw on the brake cleaner and squirted till clean.
I had to pull the rubber part of the seal out and roll the cup down with a small chisel and then pop it out. I did not see a way to tap out from the back side.
tap the seal in, oil up the shaft, poke her in and re assemble in reverse using more choice words. I just copper coated the old gasket and the machined surface of the pump cover and went back with it. I also plugged the check valve. I deleted the flame heater and wrapped it up for a Christmas present to one of the ex old ladies.
So it is possible and I would think a lot less headache than jacking the engine up and over. NOTE: if you have the replacement rubbber fuel line from Big Mikes, keep the loose end fitting up high, the fuel filter holds a lot of fuel and it is cold running down your shirt.
