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New LMTV owner

FarmingSmallKubota

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I decided to take the air over hydraulic pump apart again and replace the one gasket that the rebuild kit shorted me. It was in rough shape, but yet again disappointment as the pump just will not work. At this point i give up on that stupid thing. Every oring, gasket, and fluid tank has been replaced. If anyone is this way in Ohio or wants a meet up that has magical powers that can get it to work let me know.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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I concur with Awesomeness. ASAP replace the oil line of death and get your driveshafts balanced. Removing "OSU Football bumper stickers" will improve your overall diesel mileage, as it us always "Up Hill" for OSU :ROFLMAO: Even if your driveshafts have a "D" on them, get it done next week. Tell the driveshaft shop that you are not commercial. They may give you a better rate.
I grew up in Indiana went to College at Eastern Kentucky University. No OSU stickers will appear on anything I own. I have a new Oil line, but could not change it due to not being able to access the engine compartment. At least the hand pump works now and with good weather i can work on some of the under cab stuff, but its Winter so probably will not get done. Right now not worrying about the drive shafts as i do not drive it much with all the bugs that have to be worked out, but will get to it eventually.
 

GeneralDisorder

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Portland, OR
I decided to take the air over hydraulic pump apart again and replace the one gasket that the rebuild kit shorted me. It was in rough shape, but yet again disappointment as the pump just will not work. At this point i give up on that stupid thing. Every oring, gasket, and fluid tank has been replaced. If anyone is this way in Ohio or wants a meet up that has magical powers that can get it to work let me know.
That's so strange. I had zero problems rebuilding mine. I was honestly skeptical based on the reports of how difficult it is, etc...... I mean I have plenty of experience with pumps having worked for a compressor manufacturer and I have a full shop with a vice large enough to hold the thing together while removing and installing the bolts but it really didn't seem difficult at all. The cup and the large flat yellowish/clear seal were the big problems and cleaning it along with replacing those and careful disassembly/reassembly noting the order things stack up in was all that was required.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Wapakoneta, Ohio
No update on the Hydraulic pump yet as its too cold, but the big storm left 6 inches of snow in the cab due to missing weather stripping on driver side door. decided to put it in so no new snow in the cab, but could not shut the door once i got it installed. took the handles and door panel off to adjust door. Driver side door was newer than other door, half the bolts were loose, and the other half were standard bolts put in a metric hole GRRR hate when people do this crap. Still shimming the door hinges to get it somewhat square. I will update more progress as i go.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
469
1,116
93
Location
Wapakoneta, Ohio

FarmingSmallKubota

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
469
1,116
93
Location
Wapakoneta, Ohio
No update on the Hydraulic pump yet as its too cold, but the big storm left 6 inches of snow in the cab due to missing weather stripping on driver side door. decided to put it in so no new snow in the cab, but could not shut the door once i got it installed. took the handles and door panel off to adjust door. Driver side door was newer than other door, half the bolts were loose, and the other half were standard bolts put in a metric hole GRRR hate when people do this crap. Still shimming the door hinges to get it somewhat square. I will update more progress as i go.
So been a while 2 steps back ok n the door went to put everything back and the door handle broke ordered a new one its been to cold to work on so now that its nice went to install the control rods and the plastic unobtainable nub is broken so I will be ordering from MME today . While I wait I have a mystery part in the door that I can't find on the parts list here it is 20230226_142145.jpg20230226_142129.jpg
 

serpico760

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San Diego, CA
So been a while 2 steps back ok n the door went to put everything back and the door handle broke ordered a new one its been to cold to work on so now that its nice went to install the control rods and the plastic unobtainable nub is broken so I will be ordering from MME today . While I wait I have a mystery part in the door that I can't find on the parts list here it is View attachment 891897View attachment 891898
What mystery part do you need?
 

BERZERKER888

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Daytona, FL
So been a while 2 steps back ok n the door went to put everything back and the door handle broke ordered a new one its been to cold to work on so now that its nice went to install the control rods and the plastic unobtainable nub is broken so I will be ordering from MME today . While I wait I have a mystery part in the door that I can't find on the parts list here it is View attachment 891897View attachment 891898
in 24P. Figure 197-1

page 538
 

Third From Texas

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Corpus Christi Texas
So been a while 2 steps back ok n the door went to put everything back and the door handle broke ordered a new one its been to cold to work on so now that its nice went to install the control rods and the plastic unobtainable nub is broken so I will be ordering from MME today . While I wait I have a mystery part in the door that I can't find on the parts list here it is View attachment 891897View attachment 891898
yeah, the little plastic bits wear quickly and are hard to source. The scalpers want a fortune for them and they simply wear out agian.

I've tried a number of rod holder solutions.

The A1R trucks changed to a metal clip (akin to the old-school carb rod clips that Chevy /Ford used in the 60's). They do still fail and are a HUGE pita to install in tight spaces.

I then tack welded small SS washers to the end of the rods. That worked really well, but again they took a HUGE amount of precision to get a welding rod into position to tack the washer (especially when there was less than 1/8" clearance in the latch mechanism).

Most recently, I fabb'ed my own rods. I put a small "dogleg" into the end that slips into the latch (that makes it self retaining on that end for both push/pull). Then I threaded the other end and attached a locknut.

Really happy with this setup and it's ease of installation/removal.

Some here were concerned that the rods would actually wear, but I can assure you that they do not.

Ugly image of prototype, but you get the idea. I doubled up the thinner rods to prevent flex. I think this design could be done on all the various door rods. Food for thought for when t he plastic wears out again (and they will).

20220806_175749.jpg
 
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coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
Below From Yellow Parts Spread sheet. Myself tend to like plastic cause they are sacrificial wear part that will wear out themselves instead of part of your latch or your rod (or both) Was able to use some from a couple sets of Dorman multi type plastic door rod clip kit from auto part store. Drilled the hole slightly larger in plastic to fit our slightly larger rod.


CLIP rod retainer clip Plastic (Mazda combo pack)Amazon Right AND left
Clip see above but left.... or rightLeft 9927-80-404Right 30182-8-8B
CLIP rod retainer clip Metal (chevy GMC (1967-72) )Classic Parts18-893*video
CLIP both metal and plastic many optionsHenrysvarious>measure>chose
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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93
Location
Wapakoneta, Ohio
Finally have a door that functions. What a pain in the rear. I decided against buying the little plastic clips and just bought the whole assembly. I was going to be half way there by the time shipping was charged. I never want to mess with those rods and getting my arm inside that door again. standing on a ladder and not having enough light, my eyes that are no longer like they use to be were no help. So Its a beautiful day outside and will be taking a drive since the truck has not moved since last year. next up will be taking the Air/Hydraulic pump back apart to put the check ball where it goes and rebuilding the cab latch while i am there.
 

Ronmar

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Location
Port angeles wa
Finally have a door that functions. What a pain in the rear. I decided against buying the little plastic clips and just bought the whole assembly. I was going to be half way there by the time shipping was charged. I never want to mess with those rods and getting my arm inside that door again. standing on a ladder and not having enough light, my eyes that are no longer like they use to be were no help. So Its a beautiful day outside and will be taking a drive since the truck has not moved since last year. next up will be taking the Air/Hydraulic pump back apart to put the check ball where it goes and rebuilding the cab latch while i am there.
Remember to have the cab fully raised and a crutch installed as opening the latch opens the hydraulic circuit that lifts the cab.…
 

FarmingSmallKubota

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
469
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93
Location
Wapakoneta, Ohio
New project started today replacing all of my external lights. Tried replacing bulbs with LED but learned pretty quick that most of the bulbs would not come out due to corrosion. So I searched and searched and found a good source of new truck lite LED tan lights. Expensive but still less than some of the typical vendors. Had time tonight removed and replaced corners and tails, then came the middle marker lights. Wife had to come out and help. I got my arm up in there to hold a wrench while she used the dewalt 20v ratchet, hand is cramped up trigger finger in 2 fingers had to call it quits. Not sure how I am going to reach the wiring and get the nuts on the back side but will be another day.
 

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