Steering knuckle studs replaced with bolts

[yolner]

I need to replace a couple of the studs and was wondering if theres any downside to just swapping them all over to grade 8 bolts with lockwashers? I looked around and the folks using the 2.5 ton axles for custom builds do it fairly often, but wanted to check with the great minds here since I don't want to see a front wheel bouncing down the highway.

 

[fsearls92]

Bolts would be hard to get the wheel lined up and stay in place to thread in the bolts. Studs make it easy to use a pry bar to bump the wheel onto the studs then thread on the nuts. Just my thoughts

 

[rustystud]

I need to replace a couple of the studs and was wondering if theres any downside to just swapping them all over to grade 8 bolts with lockwashers? I looked around and the folks using the 2.5 ton axles for custom builds do it fairly often, but wanted to check with the great minds here since I don't want to see a front wheel bouncing down the highway.

Generally speaking, "studs" are stronger than bolts where aligning parts is concerned. If you have nothing else but bolts then use them, but I would really replace them later with quality studs.

 

[yolner]

Generally speaking, "studs" are stronger than bolts where aligning parts is concerned. If you have nothing else but bolts then use them, but I would really replace them later with quality studs.

Cool. Just ordered some new studs. Part number 5MTU2 seems to be almost an exact match to stock. Got them off grainger.

 

[87cr250r]

Don't use lock washers - period.

 

[gringeltaube]

Cool. Just ordered some new studs. Part number 5MTU2 seems to be almost an exact match to stock. Got them off grainger.

Careful: original studs are shorter, on both ends. You certainly don't want them to protrude too far!

Sadly, none of the typical bolts & nuts suppliers have the exact size studs, so you must go with the 2.0in-lenght and trim them down, on both sides.



Edit: I just checked one of those steering knuckles: All 12 bolt holes are about 1" deep; drilled all the way through and fully threaded, in most cases. That means that the coarse-thread end (of the 5MTU1 studs in question) will easily fit, with no modification required.

 

[yolner]

Are you sure the 3/8-16 side needs to be trimmed? Looked at my knuckle and seems like the hole has at least 3/4 of thread depth before it comes out inside the knuckle.

 

[gringeltaube]

Are you sure the 3/8-16 side needs to be trimmed? Looked at my knuckle and seems like the hole has at least 3/4 of thread depth before it comes out inside the knuckle.

Haha.... I just came back from my shop, after checking exactly that!

See my post above, now edited.

 

[ldmack3]

Don't use lock washers - period.

Why?
Mine had them so went back with new ones.

 

[yolner]

Awesome. Thats 50% less trimming

Why?
Mine had them so went back with new ones.

Mine had star washers not regular lockwashers. Was going to use nordlocks when reinstalling.

 

[ldmack3]

Mine were split.

 

[yolner]

Haha.... I just came back from my shop, after checking exactly that!

See my post above, now edited.

So I've been thinking about this more. Would the extra .203" on the 3/8-24 side actually interfere with anything. The hub wont touch them and none of the brake parts should either. Am I missing something?

 

[gringeltaube]

Difference is .23" (almost 1/4 inch longer than stock)

I will have to take a closer look, too. You are right that the hub won't interfere.
I think there is a reason for them studs to be kind of short. But it wouldn't be the first time I'm wrong...

 

[rustystud]

Awesome. Thats 50% less trimming



Mine had star washers not regular lockwashers. Was going to use nordlocks when reinstalling.

Nord-Locks would be perfect for that application. I use them whenever I really don't want something coming loose. Far superior to Ny-Lock nuts or threadlocker. Might be on par with "Stover" nuts though.

 

[87cr250r]

Split lock washers have zero locking effect and introduce additional problems.

They can break and fall out leaving the bolt loose.

Water can get to the threads through the split causing corrosion and seized bolts.

They make a burr on the nut that can bite you.

 

[yolner]

Difference is .23" (almost 1/4 inch longer than stock)

I will have to take a closer look, too. You are right that the hub won't interfere.
I think there is a reason for them studs to be kind of short. But it wouldn't be the first time I'm wrong...

Did some measuring and the backing plate, spindle, and shield are about 0.66" thick. The only potential spots where I can see the studs hitting is at the two upper brake adjusters. There's about .875 of space between the bottom of the adjuster and the spindle/dust shield. So if we use the 2" stud my math tells me there's about 0.220" of space left under the adjuster. I think the 2" studs should work without trimming.

 

[gringeltaube]

..... I think the 2" studs should work without trimming.

That would be great; just let us know.