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Looks right to me, the torque does not set the bearing preload, the bearing should not be in any bind by doing this otherwise something is wrong.
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What if I were to hold the parking brake up and bolt up the brake disc to the flange with all 6 bolts? Then torque it? No stress on the diff or drive shaft? Also the holes looked pretty good. I tapped the threads through and they're nice and clean.Also you will need to fab a tool to hold that flange by those threaded holes, do not try to torque it "through" the diff by trying to lock the input shaft etc.
EDIT, of course you would never use an impact on this flange nut removing or installing, beating the crud out of the differential innards is no way to run a railroad.
Not going to happen, that flange must be tight or it will "work" the splines out.Just worried about torquing that nut to 166 and ruining the stuff inside the diff.... bearings etc
Im still kind of new to most of this, but what does it mean to work the splines out? Also could I have someone hold the brake with the 6 bolts in to torque the flange nut to 166?Not going to happen, that flange must be tight or it will "work" the splines out.
Thank you! I got 6 nordlock washers and new 10.9 class bolts. I will torque to 166 when I get a chance. would it be ok to install the 6 bolts and have someone hold the brake while I torque it?If the flange is run "loose" it will damage the splines between the output shaft and the flange, it will also leak and eventually fail.
I would also highly recommend you get Nord Lock washers to use on the flange (6X10mm each shaft) and the hub end of the half shaft (1X3/8")
They are a very effective single use washer, not real cheap but dang well worth it.
166ftlb is really not that much.
I don't see why not if it will hold.Thank you! I got 6 nordlock washers and new 10.9 class bolts. I will torque to 166 when I get a chance. would it be ok to install the 6 bolts and have someone hold the brake while I torque it?
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