Truck bought for parts, got it running, but…

[Maxjeep1]

I had the air canister off when I did the injection pump and the elbow that you can’t see was torn apart. Might be a good thing to check because rain water would’ve run into it. I really like my air canister now. I took that inner part out to give it more airflow.

 

[T9000]

I had the air canister off when I did the injection pump and the elbow that you can’t see was torn apart. Might be a good thing to check because rain water would’ve run into it. I really like my air canister now. I took that inner part out to give it more airflow.View attachment 888834View attachment 888835

I think you are talking about the elbow between the snorkel and the air canister?
This truck came with all three parts removed.
First thing I did when picked it up, I covered the exposed intake, then after I brought it home I cleaned the oil from inside and vacuumed it. I used a previous, clean canister to start it as I didn’t want to let impurities getting into the intake.
From day one the truck has been inside the garage and didn’t get any water, besides when I washed the engine (with the intake covered), and I understand what you mean, if the elbow was ruptured and water was getting inside.

EDIT: typos

 

[Maxjeep1]

I think you are talking about the elbow between the snorkel and the air canister?
This truck came with all three parts removed.
First thing I did when picked it up, I covered the exposed intake, then after I brought it home I cleaned the oil from inside and vacuumed it. I used a previous, clean canister to start it as I didn’t want to let impurities getting into the intake.
From day one the truck has been inside the garage and didn’t get any water, besides when I washed the engine (with the intake covered), and I understand what you if the elbow was ruptured and water was getting inside.

I never would’ve checked if not for replacing my injection pump. I have had so much help from members here. I never would have had the confidence to do it without them. I don’t know anything about diesels or Humvee’s. The TM’s are really helpful but nothing like being able to ask a question.

 

[T9000]

I never would’ve checked if not for replacing my injection pump. I have had so much help from members here. I never would have had the confidence to do it without them. I don’t know anything about diesels or Humvee’s. The TM’s are really helpful but nothing like being able to ask a question.

I totally agree! I am in a similar position with no previous experience and exactly like you said, the guys on the forum are beyond fantastic!
I learned a lot on the first truck so now I ask less stupid questions lol

EDIT: I am a little OCD and I followed the sand and dust on the first truck, which was a lot and ended up disassembling the elbow, snorkel, got a new canister and all that stuff.

 

[Coug]

The purpose of that plate you removed from inside the canister is to deflect sand/grit from hitting straight onto the paper air filter at high speed. Without it there if you operate in dusty/dirty conditions you may eventually sandblast a hole right through the paper filter element, and then into your intake.

 

[Maxjeep1]

The purpose of that plate you removed from inside the canister is to deflect sand/grit from hitting straight onto the paper air filter at high speed. Without it there if you operate in dusty/dirty conditions you may eventually sandblast a hole right through the paper filter element, and then into your intake.

I don’t think that’s even possible? Nothing filters out sand like paper. How come modern vehicles don’t have complete obstructions if it’s a possibility? I think it’s to deflect water and not Dirt

 

[T9000]

You could both be right, I am no expert in intake design, and as a power design engineer where air flow is critical in cooling power semiconductors, it seems like that internal air guide or diffuser was perhaps meant to spread the air across more of the air filter area, while it may marginally reduce air flow, it increases the usable air filter area and maybe its overall efficiency, which maybe it’s a calculated trade-off…just a thought.

EDIT: typos

 

[Maxjeep1]

You could both be right, I am no expert in intake design, and as a power design engineer where air flow is critical in cooling power semiconductors, it seems like that internal air guide or diffuser was perhaps meant to spread the air across more of the air filter area, while it may marginally reduce air flow, it increases the usable air filter area and maybe its overall efficiency, which maybe it’s a calculated trade-off…just a thought.

EDIT: typos

Open it up and look at it. It’s built to channel water down to the drain at the bottom. My truck has a block off at the bottom and not the duckbill. It’s a major restriction and my truck doesn’t need it. Everyone can do whatever they think is best. This works for me

 

[T9000]

I tightened the first middle valve/ rocker cover bolt and what a PITA! I am down to last one, out of 3 and just in case others will ever run into a similar situation here how I did it. First, I needed some kind of visual because it is very difficult to see inside that area so I looked around and luckily I found a truck on GP without the alternator and with good pictures of that area:



By the time you are done with this, you can automatically qualify for the Olympics Hands Contortionist Gymnastics, if there was such thing, lol

Mainly I had to operate by hand feel, and here is the sequence:

1. Removed the two small screws that hold the injector lines and oil dipstick tube (not shown in the diagram) to the bracket, by getting access
from the doghouse.
The injector lines are on top of the bracket #1 and removing the screw provides about 1/8" of play, just enough to insert a wrench between the bracket #1 and the valves cover.
Removing the dipstick holding screw, allows for the tube to be moved out of the way just enough to provide clearance to reach the #3B nut on the valves cover (see picture above) with a longer extension from above the engine start box (I also disconnected the engine harness to get better access). The TM diagram below shows a separate washer and nut, but on my engine they are flange nuts.



2. Removed nut #3A and with the bracket semi-moving was able to get a wrench inserted in between the bracket and the valves cover. The bolt wasn't very tight and torqued it down as far as it went.
3. Still have to go back to tighten bolt 3B, may need to modify a wrench.
4. Run the engine and see if it still leaking (waiting for new CDR hoses and non-DFW valve to arrive)

Will give an update when complete.

 

[Coug]

I don’t think that’s even possible? Nothing filters out sand like paper. How come modern vehicles don’t have complete obstructions if it’s a possibility? I think it’s to deflect water and not Dirt

Yes, it will deflect water also to keep the filter dry, but there should be an intake cap that prevents water from getting into the system in the first place.
The paper does filter out the sand, but you don't want it all hitting the paper at high speed in a single location, or you will literally sandblast away the paper and leave the grit to go straight into the engine.
Most modern vehicles that I've changed air filters on have the filter at a 90 degree angle to the intake, so anything entering at high speed hits the back of the airbox and not directly at the filter itself. Others I've seen have small baffles to disrupt everything and cause debris to hit the baffle or the side of the box; again, not aimed directly at the filter.

 

[T9000]

#8 looks like a snow man.

Do you have an exploded view of the GM7 turbo? I am trying to understand where the oil input feed is coming from and where it is going and the overall internals.

 

[Maxjeep1]

It is base fed and you have a supply and return hole and that’s why gasket looks like an 8
Just goes in the base and lubes the bearings and shaft.

 

[T9000]

It is base fed and you have a supply and return hole and that’s why gasket looks like an 8
Just goes in the base and lubes the bearings and shaft.

Thank you!
So the oil is being pushed thru by the oil pump and the return goes into the oil pan?

 

[Maxjeep1]

The 2 holes in the middle are the oil supply (big) return is smaller. At least that’s how it seemed when I started my truck with the turbo off.

 

[T9000]

The 2 holes in the middle are the oil supply (big) return is smaller. At least that’s how it seemed when I started my truck with the turbo off. View attachment 889135

I appreciate the details, it’s exactly what I am trying to understand. Someone here on the forum that had a similar blow-by problem suggested that I look into that turbo cartridge and I wanted to fully understand for myself how the whole thing works in case I get different results than expected and where to go from there.
I can see how the “snow man” seal fits between the two middle openings.
How about the other two large bottom holes at each end of the cartridge, what are they for?

 

[Maxjeep1]

They are the bolt holes that hold it to the engine block. I looked at new cartridges and I don’t think they are very expensive

 

[T9000]

They are the bolt holes that hold it to the engine block. I looked at new cartridges and I don’t think they are very expensive

Yes, found some on ebay, they are all Chinese, ranging from $155 to $200. In fact to give credit where is due, another forum member pointed me to it and that’s what he’s using.
Ok, I get the holes purpose, didn’t see any threads in it so the screws must come in from the top side and the threads are in the engine block. Now that I have the diagram in my head I can work in the dark
I appreciate the help very much!

 

[Mogman]

Do not just start replacing parts just because someone suggests it, troubleshoot your problems to the defective component, with a recent rebuild it is very doubtful you have a defective turbo.

One of the biggest mistakes a HMMWV newbie makes is just to start throwing money away swapping out parts with no knowledge that the part is actually defective, we see this time and time again on this forum.

MANY times this causes additional problems or compounds the real issue or there was no real issue at all.

You cannot possibly have enough road miles on this HMMWV to insure that the blow-by is an actual problem.

I honestly do not see any way a defective turbo could cause excessive blow-by.
A defective turbo could fail and cause excessive oil burning by dumping oil into the intake or exhaust or possibly excessive diesel smoke under load due to it being seized.

 

[rtk]

Do not just start replacing parts just because someone suggests it, troubleshoot your problems to the defective component, with a recent rebuild it is very doubtful you have a defective turbo.

One of the biggest mistakes a HMMWV newbie makes is just to start throwing money away swapping out parts with no knowledge that the part is actually defective, we see this time and time again on this forum.

MANY times this causes additional problems or compound the real issue or there was no real issue at all.

You cannot possibly have enough road miles on this HMMWV to insure that the blow-by is an actual problem.

I honestly do not see any way a defective turbo could cause excessive blow-by.
A defective turbo could fail and cause excessive oil burning by dumping oil into the intake or exhaust or possibly excessive diesel smoke under load due to it being seized.

des
Very good advice , save you time and money . I would get your MV up and running , do the services required as per the TM's and then do your upgrades and repairs as needed . Something else I have found with MV's , they are like Harley's they all leak a little oil here and there and if not it's because they are out of oil !!! LOL , enjoy , stay safe be well

 

[T9000]

Do not just start replacing parts just because someone suggests it, troubleshoot your problems to the defective component, with a recent rebuild it is very doubtful you have a defective turbo.

One of the biggest mistakes a HMMWV newbie makes is just to start throwing money away swapping out parts with no knowledge that the part is actually defective, we see this time and time again on this forum.

MANY times this causes additional problems or compounds the real issue or there was no real issue at all.

You cannot possibly have enough road miles on this HMMWV to insure that the blow-by is an actual problem.

I honestly do not see any way a defective turbo could cause excessive blow-by.
A defective turbo could fail and cause excessive oil burning by dumping oil into the intake or exhaust or possibly excessive diesel smoke under load due to it being seized.

I totally agree with everything you said. The reason I am asking all these questions is to not do exactly what you described, creating additional issues where there may be none, or something minor, besides throwing money out the window
The idea behind the defective turbo is that the compressed air, leaks into the oil supply, which someone on the forum tested it with water and indeed water was coming thru the oil input side in his case and i am asking all these turbo questions to understand how it works in more detail in order to troubleshoot this particular case.
Just like on my other REV truck, where indeed I was totally green and had this difficult start-up issues, some said that I need a new IP, but for such intensive job I needed some additional proof that indeed that was the real issue. So I fixed the basics first and it turns the real issue was that I had several cracked fuel lines on both, return and input sides, and on the input side I was getting air in the system, which also was making the engine RPMs to go up and down on its own, just sitting there.
I appreciate your input and everyone's else very much! And to tell you the truth, many times I think if our government would only be half as effective as our forum, things would run a lot better