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Glowplug Box Keeps Ticking

Hummer Guy

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Today when I shut off the humvee, the glowplug box for whatever reason clicks every 30 seconds or so, is this normal? I never had it do that before, has the box went bad? It clicks as if its being shut off every 30 seconds

It only does this while the truck is off and the switch in the "Engine Stop"
 
Last edited:

MarkM

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Is it a key switch or the military switch?

When it makes the noise what is the voltage gauge doing?

Does it make the noise with the switch in "run" but the engine is still off?

When you went to start it earlier did the glow plug light come on and run as normal?

Mark
 

Hummer Guy

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Is it a key switch or the military switch?

When it makes the noise what is the voltage gauge doing?

Does it make the noise with the switch in "run" but the engine is still off?

When you went to start it earlier did the glow plug light come on and run as normal?

Mark
Military switch, it doesn't make the noise in run, only in off. It only does it in off when its 200-220 Degrees, once it cools down, it stops clicking. Yep the glow plug light came on and ran as normal.

The voltage gauge stays where its at
 

Mogman

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Next time it does it turn the heater blower on and see if the blower is going on and off.
 

Mogman

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The instrument cluster is powered directly off of the run switch so it will be off when in the stop position including the volt meter.
I had an EESS do that for a while, it was turning off and on the run solenoid in the EESS box, if the blower was on it would cycle with the clicks as the blower is powered by the run solenoid, did it for about a week or so and has not done it since.

Have you made any electrical changes lately?

This is also the EESS that would not open the run solenoid when I had a impulse type fuel pump so it was extra sensitive to any spikes in the system, why I highly discourage that type of electric pump, works fine with the motor type fuel pump I am running now. (why I asked about the pump)
 

Hummer Guy

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United States Louisiana
The instrument cluster is powered directly off of the run switch so it will be off when in the stop position including the volt meter.
I had an EESS do that for a while, it was turning off and on the run solenoid in the EESS box, if the blower was on it would cycle with the clicks as the blower is powered by the run solenoid, did it for about a week or so and has not done it since.

Have you made any electrical changes lately?

This is also the EESS that would not open the run solenoid when I had a impulse type fuel pump so it was extra sensitive to any spikes in the system, why I highly discourage that type of electric pump, works fine with the motor type fuel pump I am running now. (why I asked about the pump)
Haven't made any electrical changes, actually haven't made any changes at all in months
 

Mogman

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The heater actually never worked
On the basic the solenoid just powers the blower and excites the alternator, you could put a volt meter on the ING/EXCITER terminal of the alt to see if that is the run solenoid cycling, probably is, I would assume that solenoid powers the AC blower on AC versions.

That cycling of course is not normal I am just not sure it is a big problem.
 

Hummer Guy

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On the basic the solenoid just powers the blower and excites the alternator, you could put a volt meter on the ING/EXCITER terminal of the alt to see if that is the run solenoid cycling, probably is, I would assume that solenoid powers the AC blower on AC versions.

That cycling of course is not normal I am just not sure it is a big problem.
Its not a big issue it seems so far, especially since it stops after a few minutes, at the time I wrote this thread I was scared quite a bit since I was at walmart and didn't want the batteries to die and leave me stranded. I'm going to give it a week, and if it stops, I'm not going to worry about it, if not, I'm going to start diagnosing and seeing what's wrong with it
 

TOBASH

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Almost every box I open has water in it. That leads to eventual failure. Short circuits and component failures ensue. I’m fairly certain you’re developing an issue.

Might as well rebuild with the online instructions I made available, or contact me for a robust manual one without integrated circuits.
 

Hummer Guy

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United States Louisiana
Almost every box I open has water in it. That leads to eventual failure. Short circuits and component failures ensue. I’m fairly certain you’re developing an issue.

Might as well rebuild with the online instructions I made available, or contact me for a robust manual one without integrated circuits.
I'll be contacting you next month or 2 most likely. I'm trying to limit my parts buying at the moment because everything else wants to break 😂
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Only the early boxes had water issues inside I’ve found, the later S3’s were sealed up quite nicely, everything facing upward on top is sealed to prevent water intrusion…that wasn’t the case on even early S3’s, I’ve had 100% luck with every S3 box that’s arrived in in auction trucks…I buy about 8 trucks a month.
 

TOBASH

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Only the early boxes had water issues inside I’ve found, the later S3’s were sealed up quite nicely, everything facing upward on top is sealed to prevent water intrusion…that wasn’t the case on even early S3’s, I’ve had 100% luck with every S3 box that’s arrived in in auction trucks…I buy about 8 trucks a month.
Steve, the used Nartron and KDS smart boxes in my possession have water damage. Almost all of them. I’m not doubting you, it is just that my experience seems to differ from yours. Maybe I just have a bad sample set?
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Steve, the used Nartron and KDS smart boxes in my possession have water damage. Almost all of them. I’m not doubting you, it is just that my experience seems to differ from yours. Maybe I just have a bad sample set?
mine is purely an observation from daily exposure to the boxes…water can also come from condensation because of the environment the trucks were subject too as well, like old RT radios that would sweat…l
 
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