Rik
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But that does not explain why the fuel pump does not run when the switch is turned on
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MEP-804B Problem Starting
- Thread starter Rik
- Start date
Rik
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and the engine does not start when I jump the starter wires as it spins with no problem but won’t light off
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- Basehor, KS
That’s what S10 is supposed to be doing in crank position.
just cranking nothing else
Rik
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i agree and it doesn’t crank
hmmmm
but the panel doesn’t show life either and the starter solenoid would not control that
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Rik
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does anyone know what the MT4 looks like?
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- Basehor, KS
If S10 doesn’t crank but you got voltage on #1 when s10 is pushed then it’s K2
Rik
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Where
it ran perfect then it just went dead like a circuit breaker tripped and that would make the most sense
where would CB1 be located?
it ran perfect then it just went dead like a circuit breaker tripped and that would make the most sense
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On a panel inside the cubicle
it’s a DC Circuit Breaker
it’s a DC Circuit Breaker
Rik
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this fuse has 25v on both sides of it and continuity so it’s good
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Rik
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I check continuity between #1 on the dead crank switch and the small wire on the starter solenoid and they are connected
Rik
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Is this CB1?
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Rik
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When I push the little center post the engine cranks over fine but no start
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Do you know on how to read a wiring diagram?
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K2 and yes S10 terminal 1 connects to K2 X1
Rik
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a little
problem is a diagram is not a 3D representation of the items plus the harness has a million little wires and the items are not labeled as per a number like CB1
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- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Every item you have mentioned, is marked. Within 2 inches of each item, there is marked in white, (I think) ink, what that item is. Each wire has a wire number on it.
Item 34 is the MT4. Its in the control cube. I took this snapshot out of the -24P TM.
Below is the K2, Cranking relay. Item 17. Same as your picture.
S10-1 runs down to K2-X1 When you use S10, thats how the engine cranks over. IT WILL NOT START! The function of S10 is to turn over the engine, nothing else.
Have you checked to make sure that the wires on S10 are corrected to the right terminals?
You wrote: The dead crank when set to normal has 25v on #1 and #2 and 0 on 3
This can not be. So the switch is hooked up wrong, or you are reading the S10 positions wrong. If wire #167A, that runs from S10-1 to K2-X1 has 25 volts on it, the K2 should close and the starter should turn over. So have someone turn the S10 to crank the engine, and you measure from ground to K2-X1. what do you get?
You would be best served if instead of driving back and forth, you spent 3-4 hours reading the -24 TM. Below is a perfect example. This has nothing to do, with your problem. You need to get to know your gen set. What it is, what parts are where.
You wrote:
I looked over the manuals and I cannot find a page with the wiring diagram that you posted and printing off what you posted is very small and distorted when printed. Any source for a better diagram?
The diagram I sent you is on one of the doors, of the set. It is also in the -24 TM. Get a laptop, download the TM's and take it with you when you go.
Item 34 is the MT4. Its in the control cube. I took this snapshot out of the -24P TM.
Below is the K2, Cranking relay. Item 17. Same as your picture.
S10-1 runs down to K2-X1 When you use S10, thats how the engine cranks over. IT WILL NOT START! The function of S10 is to turn over the engine, nothing else.
Have you checked to make sure that the wires on S10 are corrected to the right terminals?
You wrote: The dead crank when set to normal has 25v on #1 and #2 and 0 on 3
This can not be. So the switch is hooked up wrong, or you are reading the S10 positions wrong. If wire #167A, that runs from S10-1 to K2-X1 has 25 volts on it, the K2 should close and the starter should turn over. So have someone turn the S10 to crank the engine, and you measure from ground to K2-X1. what do you get?
You would be best served if instead of driving back and forth, you spent 3-4 hours reading the -24 TM. Below is a perfect example. This has nothing to do, with your problem. You need to get to know your gen set. What it is, what parts are where.
You wrote:
I looked over the manuals and I cannot find a page with the wiring diagram that you posted and printing off what you posted is very small and distorted when printed. Any source for a better diagram?
The diagram I sent you is on one of the doors, of the set. It is also in the -24 TM. Get a laptop, download the TM's and take it with you when you go.
- 16,766
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- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
You wrote:
problem is a diagram is not a 3D representation of the items plus the harness has a million little wires and the items are not labeled as per a number like CB1
The markings are there. You need to look closer.
problem is a diagram is not a 3D representation of the items plus the harness has a million little wires and the items are not labeled as per a number like CB1
The markings are there. You need to look closer.
Rik
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I found the MT4 but it was not as simple as the diagram made it seem as the S10 and the MT4 are not even close to one another. In fact it is hidden away behind a panel making it very hard to find when looking for. Yes it was labeled, however I am barely able to get my head in there and how I actually found it was that I took a photo and then I could see it more easily. This is why asking for help is often better than scrounging around for the unknown as I would have never seen it elsewise especially when the diagram has it as a 4 post unit and in reality it is a 2 post unit.
I had a lot of help from Peapvp and it was very appreciative. Seems that S10(2) is not getting good enough power and that seems to be the problem as I jumped a 25V wire to S10(2) and the genset fired right up.
Now the question is why is S10(2) not getting a good solid 25V? Is it the MT4 Shunt?
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loosegravel
Just a retired mechanic who's having fun!
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The people here in the forum simply encourage others to become more knowledgeable about their own equipment. It goes without saying that the more time you spend with your own head in those tight places you were referring to, the more efficient you will get in the trouble-shooting process. This is better than someone telling you what might be the culprit, because by nature we learn more in the hands on approach. As was previously mentioned in this thread, every wire, cable and component is clearly labeled in the schematics and on or near the physical wire, cable or part in the unit. This is one of the main things that attracted me to them in the first place. They’re very simplistic.
What you’re dealing with on your unit is otherwise known as “a voltage drop.” You may see the correct voltage as measured in a specific place with a volt meter. But as soon as a load is applied the voltage either drops very low or it goes away completely. The J5/P5 and/or the J6/P6 connectors on these machines are known to be one cause of the voltage drops that you’re dealing with. As others have already suggested, I will echo them and urge you to read, study and then apply that to what you see in front of you. I’m sorry that your unit is not at your primary residence for convenience.
What you’re dealing with on your unit is otherwise known as “a voltage drop.” You may see the correct voltage as measured in a specific place with a volt meter. But as soon as a load is applied the voltage either drops very low or it goes away completely. The J5/P5 and/or the J6/P6 connectors on these machines are known to be one cause of the voltage drops that you’re dealing with. As others have already suggested, I will echo them and urge you to read, study and then apply that to what you see in front of you. I’m sorry that your unit is not at your primary residence for convenience.