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2006 LSSV help

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Elemenohpee

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Hi, new to the forum looking for help.. I recently inherited my dads 06 lssv, electrical gremlins everywhere. he’s always had an issue with the truck going crazy when hitting a good bump. all the dash lights will come on and the abs light will stay on. After he passed recently I started to drive the truck and found the bump issue to be a missing battery terminal spacer (side Mount terminals) on the 12v battery on the passenger side firewall. replaced that and the truck was going good. one night I was driving in the rain (not sure if it’s related) but the 24v gauge in the truck was swaying. after alittle the truck completely cut out and lost all power. coasted to the side and started tugging battery cables to find the negative on the 12v battery had come loose and was arcing bad, like welding. it melted the terminal and I found the threaded socked for the terminal had come out. anyways I purchased a new battery and now I’m chasing this big short. I’ve even disconnected the 24v side and still getting the big arc when I connect the negative on the 12v batt. this truck has winch preps and I’ve isolated both front and rear so the only think connected to the 12v battery should be the engine. I can’t do a multimeter amp test because it keeps popping my 10a fuse. this truck also has a 3rd battery mounted on the frame right under the passenger door. it’s wired in parallel to the other 12v but he’s had it disconnected for a while and the trucks been running. I’ve also tried disconnecting the 12v alternator and connecting battery and still arcing. sorry if this post is a mess. thanks for any help.
 
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NDT

NDT

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Sorry about your loss.
Did you insulate the positive terminal very well that leads to the (not present) frame mount battery? It cannot just dangle.
I think you are figuring out that the battery connections need to be perfect at all times.
 
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Elemenohpee

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NDT said:
Sorry about your loss.
Did you insulate the positive terminal very well that leads to the (not present) frame mount battery? It cannot just dangle.
I think you are figuring out that the battery connections need to be perfect at all times.
Click to expand...
Yes the positive coming up from the 3rd frame mounted battery was taped up and insulated. Also the slave start cables were previously disconnected and taped up. I’m not sure who did it for him. I’ve disconnected the 12 and 24v alternator and disconnected the power going to the glow plug module, still getting a negative arc. I’m thinking the starting system next. Does the truck need all 3 batteries connected? he had it running like that for a year or two. if so what order would I connect the batteries? 24+ 24- 12+ 12- frame12+ frame12- ? thank you for responding I have never dealt with a 12/24v system.
 
NDT

NDT

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Sounds like your only option is to trace out the positive battery cables and check for pinching or bare spots. It's possible the problem occured when you were driving and that issue is what caused the battery connection to melt. Also look for issues around the starter motor, such as it having come loose and a terminal is resting on the frame.
 
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Elemenohpee

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NDT said:
Sounds like your only option is to trace out the positive battery cables and check for pinching or bare spots. It's possible the problem occured when you were driving and that issue is what caused the battery connection to melt. Also look for issues around the starter motor, such as it having come loose and a terminal is resting on the frame.
Click to expand...
I’ll look into the starter, I’m waiting on a power probe ECT3000 to get here in the mail. Seems like this truck will be the perfect test for it. truck has 28k on the odometer but only the good lord knows what it’s been thru in life. I was thinking I connected the batteries in the wrong sequence but I’ve swapped batteries around on this a couple weeks back and had no sparks. when and if I find out what’s going on I’ll be sure to report back for others in need.
 
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