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removing trailer air on an m1088

rwgottar

New member
7
5
3
Location
canada
Hi all,

been browsing here for the past year, finally made an account because I'm trying to figure out how to remove the trailer air on my m1088. I watched rronmar's videos on YouTube, thought I had it all figured out..... and im not sure why I thought the setup would be the same on the 1088..

I really want to get rid of the trailer air.

hoping someone can help point me in the right direction
 

rwgottar

New member
7
5
3
Location
canada
Well follow the glad-hand lines they should connect directly to it…
oh my bad, its exactly the same

so.. im assuming same process you described on YouTube - just different locations?


the other issue is the load sensing valve. there no T connection on it. just one line in where the T is in your video
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,846
7,474
113
Location
Port angeles wa
oh my bad, its exactly the same

so.. im assuming same process you described on YouTube - just different locations?


the other issue is the load sensing valve. there no T connection on it. just one line in where the T is in your video
Ok, they must have sampled primary air from some other location back there. You should be able to see which port is which input in the video. Unfortunately I am away from home so I cannot look at my old valve to confirm which input is which. Like in my configuration, you just need to look and see if the input is fed to multiple locations and not disable those other inputs…
 

rwgottar

New member
7
5
3
Location
canada
Ok, they must have sampled primary air from some other location back there. You should be able to see which port is which input in the video. Unfortunately I am away from home so I cannot look at my old valve to confirm which input is which. Like in my configuration, you just need to look and see if the input is fed to multiple locations and not disable those other inputs…
thanks, going to try to get to it tomorrow - appreciate it!!
 

rwgottar

New member
7
5
3
Location
canada
oh my bad, its exactly the same

so.. im assuming same process you described on YouTube - just different locations?


the other issue is the load sensing valve. there no T connection on it. just one line in where the T is in your video
Hey, i got confused again. There’s actually another valve feeding into the protection valve that isn’t in your videos.

I think I have most of the lines figured out. But I’m not sure what this is
 

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Ronmar

Well-known member
3,846
7,474
113
Location
Port angeles wa
Hey, i got confused again. There’s actually another valve feeding into the protection valve that isn’t in your videos.

I think I have most of the lines figured out. But I’m not sure what this is
Yea, i am not either, will have to look into it. It looks like it samples air off that relay valve to the left. Do you have any more room to take a wider angle pic To show more components? The relay on the right looks to be the primary brake relay. There should be one that looks just like it directly above it(anti compound valve)? So you are saying there is another valve(air brake protection valve) above this one in the left of the pic?
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
Just a thought but why not just unscrew the glad hands off and screw caps on the mounted fittings so you could go back easy if something came up last minute ! Just screw the glad hands back on and off to the races ! Im glad they are on both ends of mine for the just in case !
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,846
7,474
113
Location
Port angeles wa
Just a thought but why not just unscrew the glad hands off and screw caps on the mounted fittings so you could go back easy if something came up last minute ! Just screw the glad hands back on and off to the races ! Im glad they are on both ends of mine for the just in case !
Yep, and that will absolutely work on the rear gladhands. Unscrew the glads out of the bulkheads and screw in some pipe plugs.

Some of us just like to clean up and simplify where possible. It is a real simple de-install on my 1079 chassis, i was unaware of the added/different valve used on the 1088...
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
Yep, and that will absolutely work on the rear gladhands. Unscrew the glads out of the bulkheads and screw in some pipe plugs.

Some of us just like to clean up and simplify where possible. It is a real simple de-install on my 1079 chassis, i was unaware of the added/different valve used on the 1088...
lol u never know you could be tooling along and there i sit brokedown with my towbar already hooked up and u could air my tanks up and tow me out of the woods and save the day ??????
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,846
7,474
113
Location
Port angeles wa
lol u never know you could be tooling along and there i sit brokedown with my towbar already hooked up and u could air my tanks up and tow me out of the woods and save the day ??????
I don’t know what I would hook your tow-bar to… I removed the pintle hitch 2 weeks ago? It was going to be buried under the rear skirt of the hab anyway:)
 

Mavcaster

Well-known member
201
422
63
Location
Maryland
Hey, i got confused again. There’s actually another valve feeding into the protection valve that isn’t in your videos.

I think I have most of the lines figured out. But I’m not sure what this is
I’m assuming you’re talking about deleting the 5th wheel gladhands since it’s a 1088. If so I’ve done this along with the rear glad hands with no problems. If I’m not mistaken the service and emergency lines angled upward in the center of your pic go to the 5th wheel gladhands. Just remove those lines and cap them there at the valve and remove everything else at the 5th wheel location. I’d take a picture of mine but I’m out of town for the week.
 
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