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Cranks but doesn't start (pics attached)

DEA AK

Active member
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Location
Palos Verdes Estates, CA
New battery
5 gallons of diesel
No fuel tank neck/filler and no cap.

New to me truck, from the govplanet,

Since the fuel filter canister was emptied, I disconnected 54A, cranked it a few times and fuel came out of the line.

Plugged 54a back in and it turns over but won't start.

Also, I did see a wire detached from the box on top of the alternator, it says AC next to it. I don't know enough to make any assumptions except I didn't see anything inside the cab to indicate that it had AC.

Any ideas why it won't start? Just a bit ago, I thought I heard it TRY to start for maybe a second, but it won't start.

Pics attached.

Thank you
 

Attachments

Last edited:

NDT

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AC means alternating current. Do your glow plugs work? Doesn’t look like it. Most 6.5s won’t start cold without them functioning.
 

NDT

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What is your wait to start light doing? Before cranking, is your voltmeter dipping down into the red, indicating that the 100 amp load of 8 glow plugs has been applied to the batteries? If you have no light and no dipping, you have no glow and no starting. Need to diagnose the “smart start system” or better yet replace it with “camoteksystems.com” box.
 

Mogman

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First if the fuel tank cap was missing the very first thing you should have done was pull the fuel tank plug and drain all the fuel out and put in fresh fuel after securing the parts and fixing the fuel tank fill issues.
Remove the check valves in the fuel lines in front of the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel filter housing and replace the filter, all this before even trying to start the engine.
While you were doing that you should have read the operator TM where you would learn things like the fact you need to wait at least 90 seconds between turning off the run switch and putting it back into the run/start position, not knowing this simple step and you could have fried all the glow plugs if they were not already fried to begin with. TM 9-2320-280-10 page 2-107

You did not mention the wait light so we have no idea if you even know what it is and what it does

This is a marathon not a sprint, getting "ahead of yourself" can cost you big bucks

I am sorry if this seems blunt but we see this over and over again where new owners cost themselves big bucks and time because they just want to toss some batteries in and see if it will run after sitting sometimes for decades.

Here is the link to the TMs you will need.

So take a deep breath, try to study the TMs and pull maintenance first.

If you get stuck or have questions along the way there are many folks here to help you.
 

DEA AK

Active member
163
88
28
Location
Palos Verdes Estates, CA
What is your wait to start light doing? Before cranking, is your voltmeter dipping down into the red, indicating that the 100 amp load of 8 glow plugs has been applied to the batteries? If you have no light and no dipping, you have no glow and no starting. Need to diagnose the “smart start system” or better yet replace it with “camoteksystems.com” box.
My wait light turns on after I move the switch to the up posn, then after a bit, it turns off, then I crank it... with no start up.

I didn't actually look at the voltmeter, but I did see a video which showed how to test if the control box is bad so I'll try that tonight.

I guess if the control box is actually doing what it is supposed to do, then I can just get new glow plugs.....

Thank you
 

Mogman

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My wait light turns on after I move the switch to the up posn, then after a bit, it turns off, then I crank it... with no start up.

I didn't actually look at the voltmeter, but I did see a video which showed how to test if the control box is bad so I'll try that tonight.

I guess if the control box is actually doing what it is supposed to do, then I can just get new glow plugs.....

Thank you
Test the glow plugs before replacing them, troubleshoot then replace. the glow pugs are very easy to test, ether they show low ohms and are good or they show open and are bad.
Buy all electrical parts from a reputable dealer, most if not all electrical parts on the popular auction sites are Chicom knockoffs.
 

DEA AK

Active member
163
88
28
Location
Palos Verdes Estates, CA
First if the fuel tank cap was missing the very first thing you should have done was pull the fuel tank plug and drain all the fuel out and put in fresh fuel after securing the parts and fixing the fuel tank fill issues.
Remove the check valves in the fuel lines in front of the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel filter housing and replace the filter, all this before even trying to start the engine.
While you were doing that you should have read the operator TM where you would learn things like the fact you need to wait at least 90 seconds between turning off the run switch and putting it back into the run/start position, not knowing this simple step and you could have fried all the glow plugs if they were not already fried to begin with. TM 9-2320-280-10 page 2-107

You did not mention the wait light so we have no idea if you even know what it is and what it does

This is a marathon not a sprint, getting "ahead of yourself" can cost you big bucks

I am sorry if this seems blunt but we see this over and over again where new owners cost themselves big bucks and time because they just want to toss some batteries in and see if it will run after sitting sometimes for decades.

Here is the link to the TMs you will need.

So take a deep breath, try to study the TMs and pull maintenance first.

If you get stuck or have questions along the way there are many folks here to help you.

I did empty the tank and replaced the tank plug with a new one because the old one was torn in half. Additionally, I ordered a fuel neck since the truck was missing one.

I did not read all the available manuals when I initially took ownership. I was searching for manuals containing information about specific parts, capacities, and fluid types I knew I would require.

I have waited for the "wait" light to turn off as I should, it's evident that I lack the same level of knowledge as the knowledgeable individuals in this forum. That's precisely why I sought assistance here—not to take away anyone's time or expertise, but to seek guidance from those who have encountered similar issues and can offer valuable tips and advice to help me navigate this situation.

I understand that some might argue that turning to forums is a shortcut, avoiding the effort and time required to read all available manuals thoroughly. If I've inadvertently offended anyone in this community, I apologize.
 

Mogman

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Well it sounds like you are getting ahead on this, the only shortcut you took was not explaining what you had done so far, helping each other is what the forums are all about.
Since you have so many issues you may want to convert one of your posts to say (getting my M1097A2 up and running) (example only)
Rather than starting a thread for every issue, folks will see them and respond.
 

DEA AK

Active member
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Location
Palos Verdes Estates, CA
Understand that, and that would makes sense except I don't know what I don't know yet. I falsely assumed that I'd get her running as of yesterday but I will try to read all I can this week to prepare for the weekend run.
 
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DREDnot

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Phoenix, AZ
You seem to be going in the right direction. You have clean fuel pumping out of the new filter housing. It tried to fire...

I had this happen twice and out of frustration the first time I removed the fuel supply line AT the injection pump and cranked till fuel came out. It fired up instantly. I surmised it was air trapped in the line between the filter and IP. Second time I saw this happen we tried the same trick of removing the IP end of the supply line and had the same instant fire up.
 
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