Steelsoldiers’ BIG M1152A1 HMMWV Project!!

[steelsoldiers]

I’ve been thinking about picking up a new HMMWV project for the last year or so, and I finally took the plunge! This M1152A1 showed up at my house today! It’s a 2007, but was rebuilt and put back into service in 2014, so it’s actually titled as a 2014. It is mostly complete other than everything that was removed when it was demilitarized.

It starts and moves, but doesn’t stop or steer very well because the serpentine belt is absent. Unfortunately, one of the idler pulley bolts snapped off in the alternator bracket at some point, so I’m going to have to get the broken bolt out and source a replacement pulley.

My immediate plan for the truck is to get it running, driving, and stopping reliably. Then, I think I will convert it to a four-man so I can haul the wife and kids around. It’s also going to need a paint job in the not too distant future. I’ll be sure to document my progress and share lots of pics along the way! Here are a few to get things started!

PS: Special thanks to Dan and Eric at United States of Freight for getting it here from Maryland!

 

[tgejesse]

The myth the legend, the website himself got a new hmmwv project! Keep us updated

 

[SCM35A2]

Subscribed!

 

[steelsoldiers]

I obsessively reviewed the parts manual pages last night and came up with a list of parts to order. I purchased them from a variety of sources and should receive a new idler pulley, pulley spacer, coolant crossover fitting, CDR valve, lower CDR molded hose, turbo inlet hose, and metal air horn insert next week. I still need to order a serpentine belt, but wanted to double check the length before I bought it.

 

[TOBASH]

It will be fun having you actively participate on this part of the forum.

 

[TOBASH]

Just thinking… Your joining this madness is either a great thing, or a really bad thing. LOL.

Don’t get frustrated and take it out on us. We can’t afford to lose the forum.

 

[steelsoldiers]

Hahahaha don’t worry. I’ve been down the HMMWV/H1 road a couple of times before. I’m ready for the madness.

Just thinking… Your joining this madness is either a great thing, or a really bad thing. LOL.

Don’t get frustrated and take it out on us. We can’t afford to lose the forum.

 

[steelsoldiers]

Did some more investigating this evening and found a mixture of good and not so good things about the truck.

The good is the lighting system seems to be intact. The gauge lights, taillights, a few marker lights, and one headlight work, and the rest just seem like bulb issues.

The not so good list is a little longer:

- Both of the $$$ splash guards are busted.

- The Marines that robbed parts off of the intake left the turbo inlet open to the weather. Every time it rained, water dripped into the inlet. I stuffed a paper towel in there this evening and it came out with some sand and water on it. I’m not sure if I should take a chance on the turbo. I would hate for some of the blades to be corroded and break off sending debris into the engine. I put a brake clean cap on it to seal it for now. I’ll probably buy a replacement or have it rebuilt locally.

- That broken idler pulley bolt is going to be a PITA to get to. It looks like l will either have to remove the 400A alternator, hydroboost pump, and bracket to get to it, or remove the cooling stack. Both could suck, but honestly, I’m leaning toward removing the cooling stack. Hmmmm…

Well, time to go order more parts. I need a turn signal switch and few parts for the fording intake.

 

[TOBASH]

Sand on the turbo intake side should prompt you to open up and clean.

While you’re at it, perhaps pull the 400 amp and swap to a 200amp alternator.

 

[steelsoldiers]

I am going to call our local turbo rebuilder tomorrow and see what they charge to go through one. Looks like reman and new units go for $1000-1300.

Looks like the 400a has a bit of a bad reputation. Is the 200a a significantly safer option?

Sand on the turbo intake side should prompt you to open up and clean.

While you’re at it, perhaps pull the 400 amp and swap to a 200amp alternator.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Did some more investigating this evening and found a mixture of good and not so good things about the truck.

The good is the lighting system seems to be intact. The gauge lights, taillights, a few marker lights, and one headlight work, and the rest just seem like bulb issues.

The not so good list is a little longer:

- Both of the $$$ splash guards are busted.

- The Marines that robbed parts off of the intake left the turbo inlet open to the weather. Every time it rained, water dripped into the inlet. I stuffed a paper towel in there this evening and it came out with some sand and water on it. I’m not sure if I should take a chance on the turbo. I would hate for some of the blades to be corroded and break off sending debris into the engine. I put a brake clean cap on it to seal it for now. I’ll probably buy a replacement or have it rebuilt locally.

- That broken idler pulley bolt is going to be a PITA to get to. It looks like l will either have to remove the 400A alternator, hydroboost pump, and bracket to get to it, or remove the cooling stack. Both could suck, but honestly, I’m leaning toward removing the cooling stack. Hmmmm…

Well, time to go order more parts. I need a turn signal switch and few parts for the fording intake.

you got lucky, because it could be the bolts holding the generator bracket on that broke off in the head, yours is just
the bracket, ive done many While in the truck, it takes some skills, time and tools…easiest is to remove the generator and remove
the Gen/PS bracket.
note to all ECV owners: Check the 3 bolts that secure the Gen/PS bracket onto the engin, more than half the truck I receive in are loose or missing
the metric bolts, or are already sheared off.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I am going to call our local turbo rebuilder tomorrow and see what they charge to go through one. Looks like reman and new units go for $1000-1300.

Looks like the 400a has a bit of a bad reputation. Is the 200a a significantly safer option?

nothing really safer bout it…it’s just to big and in the way, be sure to inspect that the rear cooling fan guard is NOT in contact with the body harness exiting the footwell fire wall, severe chafing will severe several critical wires!such as front lighting harness, CPS and temp sender wires.

 

[Coug]

you got lucky, because it could be the bolts holding the generator bracket on that broke off in the head, yours is just
the bracket, ive done many While in the truck, it takes some skills, time and tools…easiest is to remove the generator and remove
the Gen/PS bracket.
note to all ECV owners: Check the 3 bolts that secure the Gen/PS bracket onto the engin, more than half the truck I receive in are loose or missing
the metric bolts, or are already sheared off.

I think the loose PS/Gen bracket bolts is all trucks with the serpentine belt system, not just the ECV, as that was also an issue with my M1123 when I got it.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I think the loose PS/Gen bracket bolts is all trucks with the serpentine belt system, not just the ECV, as that was also an issue with my M1123 when I got it.

me thinks it’s the 400amp equipped trucks that don’t have a clutch pulley…

 

[steelsoldiers]

Thank you, sir. I’ll try pulling the alternator first. You know it’s a heavy pig when it comes with a lifting ring installed in it! I’ll park the tractor bucket over the truck and use a ratchet strap to pull it.

Yeah the bolts broken off in the head would be some bad juju. I’ll check them while I’m at it.

you got lucky, because it could be the bolts holding the generator bracket on that broke off in the head, yours is just
the bracket, ive done many While in the truck, it takes some skills, time and tools…easiest is to remove the generator and remove
the Gen/PS bracket.
note to all ECV owners: Check the 3 bolts that secure the Gen/PS bracket onto the engin, more than half the truck I receive in are loose or missing
the metric bolts, or are already sheared off.

 

[steelsoldiers]

nothing really safer bout it…it’s just to big and in the way, be sure to inspect that the rear cooling fan guard is NOT in contact with the body harness exiting the footwell fire wall, severe chafing will severe several critical wires!such as front lighting harness, CPS and temp sender wires.

Gotcha. I’ll check the harnesses and work on swapping it out to a smaller unit. Hopefully, I can sell the 400a to offset the cost.

 

[Coug]

me thinks it’s the 400amp equipped trucks that don’t have a clutch pulley…

I can see how that would make it worse. For mine it was because the early style rear support bracket going to the exhaust stud kept breaking off the exhaust stud due to the manifold not being flat compared to the block, and thus putting uneven stress on the stud. Add to that the 200A unit and serpentine belt pulling more on it, and sheared stud.

 

[steelsoldiers]

The first package of parts has arrived! Looks like I’ll be installing the CDR valve tomorrow!

 

[steelsoldiers]

More parts arrived yesterday! This time it was a whole box of turbo inlet hoses. I only need one, but the price was the same for six as it was for one with other eBay sellers.

 

[steelsoldiers]

Lots and lots of parts have shown up since I last posted. The most recent arrivals are the left and right splash guards. I had hoped to have it in the garage so I could work on it in spite of the recent colder/rainier weather, but when I went to move it the other day, it started and I was able to back up about 15 feet before it quit and wouldn’t restart. I cranked and cranked, but no luck. I quit for the night assuming that I had probably run it out of fuel. I put five gallons in it the next day and tried to bleed the air out through the filter bleed valve. Unfortunately, the mechanical pump just isn’t strong enough to do it. I picked up a sack of plumbing parts yesterday to build a “fuel tank pressurizer.” 10-20 psi in the tank should help push the air out when cranking. Hopefully, I will have it running and into the garage tomorrow evening.