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Self Canceling Turn Signal Arm Dimensions

dherman304

Member
53
55
18
Location
Texas, DFW
Hello all!

If someone could provide me with semi-detailed dimensions of their turn signal cancel ring Ill mock one up in CAD and 3D print to try out. If we can get it to work Ill post a link to the download for the STL file. Ill also send a 3D printed Prototype with custom engraving to whoever helps me out!

1697484594028.png
 

dherman304

Member
53
55
18
Location
Texas, DFW
I mocked one up and so far it works great! I'm using nearly solid ABS and the engagement pins are chamfered for strength. Couple of notes, Mine is a little too tall, it is backed all the way to the steering wheel spokes and sometimes doesn't want to clear the turn signal switch (an easy fix) it also has four engagement pins, this allows it to turn off quicker but that's a lot of actions on the switch, future versions will have fewer engagement pins.
Photo Oct 18 2023, 1 03 00 PM.jpg
Photo Oct 18 2023, 1 02 56 PM.jpg
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
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Brooklyn, NY
I mocked one up and so far it works great! I'm using nearly solid ABS and the engagement pins are chamfered for strength. Couple of notes, Mine is a little too tall, it is backed all the way to the steering wheel spokes and sometimes doesn't want to clear the turn signal switch (an easy fix) it also has four engagement pins, this allows it to turn off quicker but that's a lot of actions on the switch, future versions will have fewer engagement pins.
View attachment 908519
View attachment 908520
I literally used Chinese food chopstix on my M1025. They work great.
 

Mogman

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I have a NOS switch and it takes a surprising amount of force to cancel the signal, it would take a strong setup to work.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
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Location
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very typical of me to over engineer! thanks for the idea!
Others have used PVC. I also have the OEM style device now BUT I'm considering selling the M1025 in favor of my M1165 so I might just leave those chopsticks
 

TLambert

New member
21
8
3
Location
White Hall/MD
I mocked one up and so far it works great! I'm using nearly solid ABS and the engagement pins are chamfered for strength. Couple of notes, Mine is a little too tall, it is backed all the way to the steering wheel spokes and sometimes doesn't want to clear the turn signal switch (an easy fix) it also has four engagement pins, this allows it to turn off quicker but that's a lot of actions on the switch, future versions will have fewer engagement pins.
View attachment 908519
View attachment 908520
have you had an opportunity to refine the design? do you have the 3D? interested in adding one to my 998...also leaving house to buy a 3D printer. so mental justification is necessary
 

dherman304

Member
53
55
18
Location
Texas, DFW
have you had an opportunity to refine the design? do you have the 3D? interested in adding one to my 998...also leaving house to buy a 3D printer. so mental justification is necessary
Yes sir, drove it around a few times and made one more tweek to the design. I attached a stl of the "final" design. I can make any other modifications if anyone wants any! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6335634
 

AAVP7

Well-known member
217
262
63
Location
Dortmund, Germany
PLA+ will start to melt at temperatures usually encountered in a Humvee in summer. I´d definitely recommend printing in ABS or PET-G, which have a much higher melting point.

Also, I´ve had older PLA parts fall apart after 8+ years, probably from exposure to humidity, UV light, or whatever. PLA is bio-degradable, after all.

Just my two cents as a 3D printing early adopter.
 

TLambert

New member
21
8
3
Location
White Hall/MD
PLA+ will start to melt at temperatures usually encountered in a Humvee in summer. I´d definitely recommend printing in ABS or PET-G, which have a much higher melting point.

Also, I´ve had older PLA parts fall apart after 8+ years, probably from exposure to humidity, UV light, or whatever. PLA is bio-degradable, after all.

Just my two cents as a 3D printing early adopter.
i have an open printer and just starting out. i will try the PLA+. I just printed up the files you uploaded, thanks again. in the future, if i get a closed machine, will try the ABS for sure. Anxious to put them on my truck
 

AAVP7

Well-known member
217
262
63
Location
Dortmund, Germany
Printing ABS is pretty difficult, and as you say, requires an enclosed machine for a start.

PET-G has become my material of choice when I want parts that can stand 100+ °F, but are too large for my small enclosed printer. (My other, larger printer is not enclosed). PET-G has way less warping problems than ABS, and sticks pretty well to the usual print surfaces. It´s not as easy to glue as ABS, however.
 

FlameRed

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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93
Location
Florida
I have a NOS switch and it takes a surprising amount of force to cancel the signal, it would take a strong setup to work.
Newbie here so my experience is limited. I too bought a NOS switch from one of the notable vendors last year and after I disassembled it, I am now sure that it is really a Chineium clone fake as it look a tremendous amount of force to activate the cancel arm thingy and it would break multiple 3D printed rings that yet another vendor provided me. Lesson learned.

As pictured above, I ended up using a radiator hose clamp to keep mounted on the steering wheel otherwise it would pop off because of the amount of force required to cancel. I also found when they printed the rings, the little tabs that contact the switch were hollow and broke off easily. I tried screwing in a small screw to fill the void and that helped a bit but they still eventually broke.

I have a feeling the military rings are not 3D printed but are injection molded and tougher.

I kind of gave up on the self canceling.

A while later I stumbled on a used switch and decided to take another chance and it was a genuine US one and was super easy to cancel requiring no force at all.

The 3D printer rings seem to work fine now and I don't think they need any reinforcement with a genuine US switch. But I put back a ring that I reinforced and still have held on with the radiator clamp. No issues and it has worked reliably without failure.
 
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