aw113sgte
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Two questions:I'd like to hear about the N1313 alternator. Dual volt 300 amp. While no images of brackets, I did find it listed in the HIMARS TM
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That's for the 100 amp option, as GeneralDisorder mentioned, looks like there is another one. Look at the 1616 diagram, alternator case is different.Two questions:
1— #45 looks like a bracket?
2— Wouldn't it be simpler and less expensive to go to a 24v alternator and a 24v/12v converter?
1 - That is a bracket. It's not the only revision of the HIMARS bracket. They had problems with them cracking and they have been redesigned..... 98 lbs of alternator will do that. *edit* - that first image is the 100A alternator. Not the HIMARS bracket. The HIMARS bracket is absurdly rare - alternators are seen as having value - even if damaged - lots of copper, etc. Bracketry gets tossed in the scrap or stays with the truck. The HIMARS brackets are unicorns outside of the Army.Two questions:
1— #45 looks like a bracket?
2— Wouldn't it be simpler and less expensive to go to a 24v alternator and a 24v/12v converter?
Damaged threaded ground point. Clearly has been on a truck. Might work. Might be a boat anchor. Already has the lifting eye for anchor duties though!
By the appearance of the bracket and take a look at the 14v and 28v output lug locations, the fan guard type (260 is a wire cage) and the format of the VR terminals, V-belt pulley, etc. I know what all the alternators look like since I've handled them all - it's just a learning curve thing.How do you all know it is the 100a? Both diagrams reference 300a. I am trying learn, you all are so far ahead of me–
So when are you going to unveil your new super secret alternator setup? Curious minds what to know!The HIMARS bracket part numbers:
2920-01-585-3333, 12423692
Good luck even finding a picture of that guy. I've never seen one for sale and I've not yet even found a diagram showing it.
Well you guessed the alternator I'm running. The difficulty is the availability, the horrendous price from Niehoff, and the bracket situation. A few of them have turned up in the surplus world - mostly attached to HIMARS crate engines - but that supply has dried up for the time being along with the M-ATV 370HP engines, and a lot of other stuff since we started giving away every spare HIMARS and MRAP to Europe.So when are you going to unveil your new super secret alternator setup? Curious minds what to know!
I am still thinking running a 3126b or C7 cab and chassis, even with a 24v AC unit, a 28v 200a alternator with a 24v/12v 70a converter is the simplest, most economical way to use in-stock, reasonably available parts. That can be accomplished new, out of the box for about $2,000 and run reliably for many years—You can buy one from Niehoff - just fill out the EUC and give them $7,450 or so. Plus tax and shipping.
Yeah - it depends on what you want and how you feel about the modifications required to get there. The 24v AC unit will draw near 40A at full tilt...... If you want to run four 6TAGM's in the factory configuration for redundancy and for temperature resilience, and want to run four Victron Orion converters for 68A of habitat charging.... you start to add up the worst case for charging 8 batteries, running the truck, and additional lighting overhead.... and then add in a safety margin knowing you don't want to run it at it's full rated capacity under any circumstances...... you end up where I'm at.I am still thinking running a 3126b or C7 cab and chassis, even with a 24v AC unit, a 28v 200a alternator with a 24v/12v 70a converter is the simplest, most economical way to use in-stock, reasonably available parts. That can be accomplished new, out of the box for about $2,000 and run reliably for many years—
I don't disagree with any of those points in principle.The Neihoff is a well made alt, the problem is if I loose one out on the road somewhere, repair is basically unobtanium. Or it is very expensive if I can find someone to send me one. Something like a delco or leece is way more common, replacements and parts are readily available and a fraction of the cost. So inexpensive I can afford to have a spare. Any auto electric shop can work on it if I don’t feel like itThats one reason I went with the straight 24v conversion. I expect the 100A Neihoff to last a long time, but I can and will shoehorn a COTS alt when this alt goes.
The 24-12 converter is another point of failure, but its not a show-stopper. You can still draw 12 out of the middle of 24 for short periods to get you where you need to go. If you rotate batteries frequently, you could get away with this for quite a while until you get another converter installed. But again, not unobtanium or horrifically expensive…
my .02…
Habitat has to be separate, like a trailer, a habitat must carry its own 'water'...., and want to run four Victron Orion converters for 68A of habitat charging.... you start to add up the worst case for charging 8 batteries, running the truck, and additional lighting overhead.... and then add in a safety margin knowing you don't want to run it at it's full rated capacity under any circumstances...... you end up where I'm at.
Just another data point, my 2 6tl flooded (770ca) didn't have enough juice to start my C7 at about -10F. Supposedly agm are better cca at over 1000 for most brands. I may end up with 4x agm 6tl to deal with WI winter.Habitat has to be separate, like a trailer, a habitat must carry its own 'water'.
Cab and chassis 24v 175 or 200a alternator, a 24v/12v 70a converter to run 12v side and accessories, four? batteries, (and a spare ether can), for winter starting after sitting unused two weeks at Alta, Big Sky, Mt. Hood, or Stowe during 2° nights, 24° days—
Yeah of course the habitat is self-contained. But I can manually switch the solar over to the truck batteries if necessary and the Victron's are there to supplement the solar array. Backups and contingencies. But yes they have separate battery banks.Habitat has to be separate, like a trailer, a habitat must carry its own 'water'.
Cab and chassis 24v 175 or 200a alternator, a 24v/12v 70a converter to run 12v side and accessories, four? batteries, (and a spare ether can), for winter starting after sitting unused two weeks at Alta, Big Sky, Mt. Hood, or Stowe during 2° nights, 24° days—