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MEP005A frequency meter not working.

peapvp

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So should I invest in the ADVR054 OR try and find an A11. If I get one installed will all the meters still work correctly
Which meters are you referring too?
You can remove all meters from panel; and bench test them. Then you know for sure which meter actually still works and if it works correctly or not.

In terms of A11 or ADVR054, I really think it doesn't matter. I personally would use the ADVR 054 with the additional resistors and the extra relay, some members here on Steel Soldier have a different opinion about those extra parts.
 
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yohanusmarcus

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Which meters are you referring too?
You can remove all meters from panel; and bench test them. Then you know for sure which meter actually still works and if it works correctly or not.

In terms of A11 or ADVR054, I really think it doesn't matter. I personally would use the ADVR 054 with the additional resistors and the extra relay, some members here on Steel Soldier have a different opinion about those extra parts.
Was just talking to my wife about this. Currently all my meters work except for the frequency meter and if I understand right that might be a symptom of th A11 being bad. I've hunted every where and can't find a replacement, or anyone who might rebuild it for me. I do think I could install the ADVR with some instructions after I got it.
 

peapvp

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Was just talking to my wife about this. Currently all my meters work except for the frequency meter and if I understand right that might be a symptom of th A11 being bad. I've hunted every where and can't find a replacement, or anyone who might rebuild it for me. I do think I could install the ADVR with some instructions after I got it.

The frequency meter is connected to a transducer A2, which converts the line frequency to a small DC Voltage for the Frequency Meter.
The DC Voltage output is proportional to the Frequency on the input side of A2

Frequency generated by generator head is proportional to the actual Engine RPM
1800 RPM = 60 Hz

The meter becomes active at around 45 Hz which equates to 1350 Engine RPM
Engine RPM is adjusted with the control knob mounted below the Electrical Cubicle

Again, two options:
1. Install either a A11 or ADVR054, start generator and adjust Engine RPM with Control Knob below cubicle to 1800 RPM / 60 HZ
connect a Digital Meter with Range set to Frequency to the convenience outlet and compare. Both, meter and your digital meter should show 60 Hz when engine runs at 1800 RPM

2. Uninstall the Frequency Meter and apply a small DC Voltage in the range from 100mV to 1V - needle should move indicating a increase of Frequency when DC Voltage is increased
The Transducer (Converter) A2 cannot be easily tested, requires a variable Frequency Source on Input Side.
 

yohanusmarcus

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Ok my bad. So if I get the ADVR my panel will still function as it should? Right now as the machine is everything works, it produces power, but the frequency meter does not work. If anything I'm running at or above 1800 RPM with the throttle control knob pulled most of the way out.
 

peapvp

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Ok my bad. So if I get the ADVR my panel will still function as it should? Right now as the machine is everything works, it produces power, but the frequency meter does not work. If anything I'm running at or above 1800 RPM with the throttle control knob pulled most of the way out.
if your generator produces power, then your A11 is working
then it’s either A2 or the gauge itself
 

Guyfang

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NO, NO, NO. You gen set does NOT produce power. Your A11 is bad. The reason you see power on the meter and on your multi meter is because the gen set is running on Initial Excitation. You are holding the S2 up, and that sends DC voltage to the exciter rotor. The A11 is bad. That's why the AC Voltage falls off, when you let the S2 go from START to the RUN position. You need to fix one problem at a time.

Here is a simple way to test your A2 and gage. Take them out of the set. Hook a wire from the positive side of the A2, to the positive side of the meter. Then do the same thing from the Negative side of A2 to the Negative side of the meter. Then find an old AC extension cable. Cut off the female side and wire it up to the AC side of A2. Plug it in. The meter should read 60 hertz, more or less. Then you will know if your A2 and meter is good.
 
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yohanusmarcus

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Location
Hayti missouri
NO, NO, NO. You gen set does NOT produce power. Your A11 is bad. The reason you see power on the meter and on your multi meter is because the gen set is running on Initial Excitation. You are holding the S2 up, and that sends DC voltage to the exciter rotor. The A11 is bad. That's why the AC Voltage falls off, when you let the S2 go from START to the RUN position. You need to fix one problem at a time.

Here is a simple way to test your A2 and gage. Take them out of the set. Hook a wire from the positive side of the A2, to the positive side of the meter. Then do the same thing from the Negative side of A2 to the Negative side of the meter. Then find an old AC extension cable. Cut off the female side and wire it up to the AC side of A2. Plug it in. The meter should read 60 hertz, more or less. Then you will know if your A2 and meter is good.
Ok what do I need to work on first.
1. Machine will not stay running without battle short on. No fault lights on at all. The connection board is in the 120/208 configuration and I get 189 v 0L to L1, L2, L3 and 338 v phase to phase regardless of engine speed.
2. A11 has burned transformer and needs to either be repaired, or replaced with the DVDR54.
3. Frequency meter not working.
4. No power to convince receptacle.
I want to follow your advice as my experience with machine of this type and output is limited. Thank you I just got confused on what to check and fix first. Surely one type of failure and symptom will take president over others.
 

peapvp

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Ok what do I need to work on first.
1. Machine will not stay running without battle short on. No fault lights on at all. The connection board is in the 120/208 configuration and I get 189 v 0L to L1, L2, L3 and 338 v phase to phase regardless of engine speed.
2. A11 has burned transformer and needs to either be repaired, or replaced with the DVDR54.
3. Frequency meter not working.
4. No power to convince receptacle.
I want to follow your advice as my experience with machine of this type and output is limited. Thank you I just got confused on what to check and fix first. Surely one type of failure and symptom will take president over others.
The first thing you need to fix is, that the Generator starts, runs and stops with Battleshort in OFF Position.

Once this is accomplished, then you can either fix A11 or use the AVDR054 - neither one will have any impact on starting and running the engine itself. But you will need either one to actually produce power without holding S2 in Start Position

Then you can check your frequency and convenience outlet. Both may just be working at this point.

This is quite different from what you posted in Post #66:

"Right now as the machine is everything works, it produces power, but the frequency meter does not work."
 

yohanusmarcus

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Yes I'm sorry for the misinformation. That was before I got the machine unloaded and could actually put a meter on the output studs, I was going by the meters on the machine.

So I have an issue somewhere that is cutting fuel off is that correct? Should I check the speed switch first?
 

peapvp

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Yes I'm sorry for the misinformation. That was before I got the machine unloaded and could actually put a meter on the output studs, I was going by the meters on the machine.

So I have an issue somewhere that is cutting fuel off is that correct? Should I check the speed switch first?
Yes, that would be the first culprit.

Are you good in reading DC Wiring Diagrams?

All wiring diagrams are installed in the top doors which fold out on plaques.

Open all doors and familiarize yourself with your generator first
 

peapvp

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Yes, that would be the first culprit. (Speed switch)

Are you good in reading DC Wiring Diagrams?

All wiring diagrams are installed in the top doors which fold out on plaques.

Open all doors and familiarize yourself with your generator first
 

peapvp

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Yes I can follow a wiring diagram just unsure on some symbols.
Locate the plaques in the doors. There is one for AC and one for DC Wiring. There is also a plaque for the proper startup procedure and how to shut generator down.
These plaques are your best friend. Love' em, cherish them and get to know them better then your wife before you got married.
 

yohanusmarcus

Member
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Location
Hayti missouri
Locate the plaques in the doors. There is one for AC and one for DC Wiring. There is also a plaque for the proper startup procedure and how to shut generator down.
These plaques are your best friend. Love' em, cherish them and get to know them better then your wife before you got married.
Lol that's great. I've looked at them and followed the one on start up and shutdown every time I start the machine.
 

Guyfang

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1709243544900.png

Open the Special Relay box. Jump with a wire, between TB 101-1 to TB 101-9
Then start the set normally. Will it stay running?

Do that, then put the boxes back in the set. No need to bolt them down. Start the set, normally and let S2 go. will the set still run? Dont worry about AC voltage. If the set runs, then you know the problem is one of the safeties. Or K2 or K8. Your A5 card looks like its been hot. Its suspect. If the set will not run with the jumper wire, THEN try the S9, (speed switch). Have you pushed the reset button on the S9?
 
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