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I have 3 gallons of leftover aeroshell 64 I have been using on all my zerks, but what have you found that works best?
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What grease are you using?
- Thread starter littlesfmtv
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I use Amsoil waterproof grease. The Army uses GAA (Grease, Automotive and Artillery).
It's really more important that things are greased frequently and less important what brand you use. The waterproof Amsoil stays in place really well in my experience - resists washing out if you do any amount of fording, etc. I stock it at my shop along with other Amsoil products so it's on hand. If it wasn't though I wouldn't hesitate to use whatever I have as long as it's clean. They don't need anything exotic - our components are so over-built that they aren't hard on grease in terms of temperature or pressure. Heck the Meritor u-joints claim you only have to grease them every 100,000 miles. Says so right on the box. LoL.
It's really more important that things are greased frequently and less important what brand you use. The waterproof Amsoil stays in place really well in my experience - resists washing out if you do any amount of fording, etc. I stock it at my shop along with other Amsoil products so it's on hand. If it wasn't though I wouldn't hesitate to use whatever I have as long as it's clean. They don't need anything exotic - our components are so over-built that they aren't hard on grease in terms of temperature or pressure. Heck the Meritor u-joints claim you only have to grease them every 100,000 miles. Says so right on the box. LoL.
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I need to look into that grease. I just have so much of this really expensive high-moly aviation grease around I figure I needed to use it before it goes bad, I just didn't want to damage anything. The only thing bad so far is the smell of it and it flings pretty hard from the u joints.
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Moly is for extreme pressure - metal to metal sliding contact type of applications and might not be the best choice for u-joints. U-joints are not a sliding contact type of application like a constant velocity joint. If it flings it out of the u-joints then it's probably too thin also. I would go with a non-moly grease - something very tacky that isn't going to weep out or get thrown off. And if the u-joints are original it's probably worth changing them. They are cheap and the seals dry out eventually. The only good way to inspect them is to remove them and at that point you may as well have new ones.
I'm moving my fleet to polyurea based greases. They last much longer than lithium and are more water resistant. They may or may not be compatible with lithium greases, it's best to use polyurea after rebuilding.
Also note that EP grease should not be used in ball bearings. They can be used anywhere else.
If you have deep pockets or access to it, Krytox GPL is the bees knees for anything rubber and plastic. It's good for control pivots where you want consistent feeling regardless of temperature.
If Krytox isn't in the budget, Dow Corning Molykote 111 is also good for your rubber and plastic components.
Both Krytox and MK111 are superior to anti-seize for preventing seized fasteners from corrosion. Anti-seize should be called anti-gall as it's a terrible corrosion preventer compared to most greases.
Also note that EP grease should not be used in ball bearings. They can be used anywhere else.
If you have deep pockets or access to it, Krytox GPL is the bees knees for anything rubber and plastic. It's good for control pivots where you want consistent feeling regardless of temperature.
If Krytox isn't in the budget, Dow Corning Molykote 111 is also good for your rubber and plastic components.
Both Krytox and MK111 are superior to anti-seize for preventing seized fasteners from corrosion. Anti-seize should be called anti-gall as it's a terrible corrosion preventer compared to most greases.
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I agree moly is for extreme pressure. Do not use it in any bearing! It will take out a bearing!!
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Do any of our zerks feed a bearing?
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U-joints are needle bearings.
I don't know about moly grease damaging the bearings. I wouldn't consider using it for that application (it's a specialty grease - not a generic bearing grease) and I haven't done enough research or tried it personally to know. In the automotive world it's used in CV joints so it's often just called CV joints grease. Sometimes comes in packets or tubes that are pre-measured for the joint, etc. It's not typically used in bearings or u-joints.
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Is far as I am aware the only restriction on moly grease is that it is not to be used in ball bearings.
However, you want the oil to do the lubricating if it can. Moly lubricates only once the oil film has been broken. That's why I chose greases that have more oil to thickened ratio and that's where polyurea shines. It's also superior in pilot bearings because the centrifugal force doesn't separate the oil from the thickener.
However, you want the oil to do the lubricating if it can. Moly lubricates only once the oil film has been broken. That's why I chose greases that have more oil to thickened ratio and that's where polyurea shines. It's also superior in pilot bearings because the centrifugal force doesn't separate the oil from the thickener.
