New owner of MEP 802A

[FarmingSmallKubota]

i use this fuel line because its red. I know which units i have worked on. with Pink zip ties on the ends

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[Digger556]

This is a good idea. I love bright colors.

I also like that it's translucent and you can see the fuel flowing through it.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Tygon comes in a variety of formulations, all PVC based. As far as I am aware, none of them are deemed "recommended" for diesel. If Tygon is being used, I would keep an eye on it, as I have seen it swell and soften in fuel line uses, though I have only used it in an emergency. (EDIT: I'm wrong, see below by @fb40dash5 )

FWIW: For other diesels, I have had the best durability with the German cloth outer fabric fuel lines. Sold for VW, Mercedes, and Deutz diesel engines. Not cheap, but I usually get 10-15 years out of it.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[fb40dash5]

F-4040-A (which I believe is the 'standard' neon yellow, but I usually search for that specifically) has "heating fuels" & "small engine fuel lines" both as "typical applications"... actually, on further looking, LP-1100 as well is listed on their site as being diesel fuel resistant.

I have a small piece on an MEP-831 cuz I couldn't get the cloth covered stuff on the injector nipple, but it hasn't been there long enough to say it's definitely good from experience.

 

[Digger556]

F-4040-A (which I believe is the 'standard' neon yellow, but I usually search for that specifically) has "heating fuels" & "small engine fuel lines" both as "typical applications"... actually, on further looking, LP-1100 as well is listed on their site as being diesel fuel resistant.

I have a small piece on an MEP-831 cuz I couldn't get the cloth covered stuff on the injector nipple, but it hasn't been there long enough to say it's definitely good from experience.

I looked back at what I ordered and I purchased F-4040-A, which was listed for "gasoline, diesel, kerosene, and heating oil"

I need to dig into the spec furtber, but my plan is to continue monitoring for deterioration.

 

[2Pbfeet]

I looked back at what I ordered and I purchased F-4040-A, which was listed for "gasoline, diesel, kerosene, and heating oil"

I need to dig into the spec furtber, but my plan is to continue monitoring for deterioration.

If it is rated, great, and F-4040-A is hydrocarbon rated, so you should be good to go. (And thanks for correcting me; good to learn something new!)

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[heimlich]

I got all the filters on, oil, and coolant. In order to get to the air filter I had to remove the top. of the generator. Is there any easier way to get to that filter?

It took a while to start even after priming it. I didn't see any diesel leaks. I was a bit surprised after all the talk about how bad these leak but I guess they will come later.

What's the best way to store these for long term use besides removing all the water and oil? is it like a care where you start it up every week/month/etc?

I let it run for about 20 mines. The PIS hit over 80 and the water temperature hit a little over 180. Is that the correct temperature for these?
It vibrated a lot while it was running. Is this normal? I know this is a loaded question so I will try to quantify it. The engine didn't seem like it was vibrating a lot but the housing was. I just don't have anything to compare it to.




I am missing one little holder for the main panel. What is this called so I can find it?

 

[kloppk]

I am missing one little holder for the main panel. What is this called so I can find it?

View attachment 918743

I have one for you. Just pay shipping and it's yours.

 

[Guyfang]

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! but Mr. Heimlich is not learning how to use the TM's at 02:00 in the morning. Have you down loaded them?

 

[heimlich]

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! but Mr. Heimlich is not learning how to use the TM's at 02:00 in the morning. Have you down loaded them?

You are right. These things are probably the best because there is a Military manual for them which tells you everything you want to know. I'm scanning through them now trying to find a parts diagram for that panel.

 

[heimlich]

I put lawn mower batteries in mine because I saw someone else on this forum do it. A lot cheaper to buy two of those for $40 than the others. Such a save there. Those hooks that hold the battery down are too long. Has anyone done this and have a way to tie those small batteries down?

 

[Light in the Dark]

You are right. These things are probably the best because there is a Military manual for them which tells you everything you want to know. I'm scanning through them now trying to find a parts diagram for that panel.

There are three basic manuals for the complete genset, ending -10, -24, and -24P. Do you know the use of each? Just this key detail will greatly aid in answering any question you might have... where to look first.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I put lawn mower batteries in mine because I saw someone else on this forum do it. A lot cheaper to buy two of those for $40 than the others. Such a save there. Those hooks that hold the battery down are too long. Has anyone done this and have a way to tie those small batteries down?

Well you can either find shorter J hooks, use a universal bolt down battery holder, or find some length of threaded rod and put a washer and lock nut on the side sticking out of the J hook cutout, and cut to length to use with the stock brackets at the back edge of the battery.

Few ways to skin a cat.

 

[heimlich]

My wife wants me to hook this up to the house

There are three basic manuals for the complete genset, ending -10, -24, and -24P. Do you know the use of each? Just this key detail will greatly aid in answering any question you might have... where to look first.

I see the 24P has the diagram with the part numbers. It's just like an auto parts diagram. I found the fuse panel in there and am trying to find the faster on it. I don't see it. Am I looking at the right one here?

 

[Digger556]

I got all the filters on, oil, and coolant. In order to get to the air filter I had to remove the top. of the generator. Is there any easier way to get to that filter?

It took a while to start even after priming it. I didn't see any diesel leaks. I was a bit surprised after all the talk about how bad these leak but I guess they will come later.

What's the best way to store these for long term use besides removing all the water and oil? is it like a care where you start it up every week/month/etc?

I let it run for about 20 mines. The PIS hit over 80 and the water temperature hit a little over 180. Is that the correct temperature for these?
It vibrated a lot while it was running. Is this normal? I know this is a loaded question so I will try to quantify it. The engine didn't seem like it was vibrating a lot but the housing was. I just don't have anything to compare it to.

- The air filter can be reached with the top on, it's just mildly difficult. It helps if the thumb screw is clocked correctly.

- If the unit is hard to start, there may still be air in the injector lines. How hard is "hard to start"?

- Best way to store these units? Opinions vary, but I exercise my units once per month, ramping it up to 80% load for 30-60 minutes. This keeps the mechanical parts happy and verifies the generator functions. It also keeps turning over the fuel in the tank.

- 180°F -195°F is normal operating temps. 80psi is high. Is that cold or hot? It will run fine at 80psi, but the Lister engines can developed stuck oil pressure reliefs. I picked up a unit with muck in the relief valve and the engine would shoot to 240 psi before it shutdown. At those pressures, the oil will pump up the lifters and hold the valves open.

- Vibration is normal with 802a's. They are twin cylinders and the pistons moved together like a big single cylinder. Depending how what the unit is is sitting on, the housing can bounce a lot.

 

[kloppk]

Find Number 50

 

[Guyfang]

You were close. Its in Figure 10, (PDF page #42) but you need to go a page farther, to PDF page # 43. Item numbers 42 & 50.

Tip. Anything that has to do with the gen set is in TM's:
LO 9-6115-641-12 (Lubrication)
TM 9-6115-641-10 (Operators manual)
TM 9-6115-641-24 (Maintenance)
TM 9-6115-641-24P (Parts)

Anything that deals with the engine is in:
TM 9-2815-252-24 (Maintenance)
TM 9-2815-252-24P (Parts)

There are a few items that kinda fall in the crack. So if you look at Engine TM's till your eyes bleed, it going to be in the gen set TM's.

Tip. The MEP-802A and MEP-803A, are 98% the same. The maintenance TM's for the gen set are more or less interchangeable, close to 99% interchangeable. . So if you have a hard time reading a TM. because its a crappy copy, look at the other set. The Engine Maintenance TM's are 99% the same. If you have a hard time with an engine or Gen set parts TM, look at the MEP-803A parts TM, but keep in mind that the part you want could be different. But there are at least 96% the same.

Tip. The Gen set Maintenance and Parts TM's. If you look at the cover you will see that the TM's cover two DIFFERENT gen sets. The 60 hertz machine and the 400 hertz machine. There are a few parts that will not play well with the others. That' why there is a UOC code in the parts TM's. that's to tell you what part fits your MEP-802A. In the front of the parts TM's there is an explanation of the UOC. It behooves you to read it, and understand it. Its only important for a hand full of parts. But it could save you money and work.

 

[Guyfang]

Kurt beat me again! I am too long winded.

 

[heimlich]

I bet it will be easier to start now that I have had it running. I didn't put any load on it though.

The thumb screw was clocked vertically and was so tight I couldn't turn it unless I removed the top.

80 PSI is cold and hot. It remained there for the full 20 minutes.

Once a month check on these seems pretty good. I already have to do something similar with the vehicles.

 

[Digger556]

I bet it will be easier to start now that I have had it running. I didn't put any load on it though.

The thumb screw was clocked vertically and was so tight I couldn't turn it unless I removed the top.

80 PSI is cold and hot. It remained there for the full 20 minutes.

Once a month check on these seems pretty good. I already have to do something similar with the vehicles.

- Put some load on it and get those IPs to open up and really push the fuel. Diesel's don't use much fuel unloaded.

- 80 psi cold and hot is a little strange. Pressure should come down some when hot. Run through the TMs and verify the gauge and sender are working properly. Many of us tee in a mechanical gauge to verify.

- Once a month has worked for me for 6 yrs. I dont need to use a battery tender at that rate.