LDS-427-2 dismantling issue

[movcondude]

I am moving into unknown territory in taking a surviving (sort of) USMC Deuce A1, LDS-427-2 engine apart so it can be welded in the engine block (thrown rod). I am stuck in pulling the Crankshaft damper and pulley off. I have given my heavy duty two legged puller all I risk give it but still no movement. Either I am doing something totally wrong or it just isn´t enough pull BUT before I go there I would appreciate if anyone who have experience herein will tell me where I possible go wrong ?

Thanks guys

 

[NDT]

The dampner is a slight interference fit on the crankshaft. Typically the bolt can be used to draw it in place with minimal torque. Yours is being stubborn. More pull is needed.
The 427 is a cool engine and all, smokes like a freight train, BUT hole in the block typically means scrap pile in my world …

 

[cattlerepairman]

It is a slight press fit, so maybe it is corroded on?
Suggest to use penetrating fluid and let sit. Then try again. Put the puller on, put it under tension and tap the pulley gently with a big hammer. Don't go too crazy or you might break the pulley edge off.
If no success, consider heating the pulley up some (tough on the rubber but it is likely old and hard anyway and should be replaced with a new harmonic balancer).
Good luck!!

 

[movcondude]

Thanks for the all good tips and tricks and your rapid reply it is highly appreciated !

Last night I gave it a shower in penetrating fluid as advised left it until next afternoon and gave it a try with the puller. The two legged puller had a tendency to bend off so I placed a jack stand under the revolving screw while using a airtool,- after a bit of additional pressure it came off in a slowly but surely way

On the damaged block issue, - Yes if I wasn´t a Blacksmith/Welder I would probably have send it to the scrap heap already but I like the challenge even the two holes in the block are like a man sized hand. I will produce two replacement sheets of mild steel and TIG it,- I havent decided yet which filler rod I will be using there are a couple of good ones out there to consider. The hole process will take a considerable amount of time in keeping the correct temperature on the block (around 500 F) while spot weld it criss-cross,- fortunately I am not in a hurry, it will be great fun

Thanks again !

 

[gringeltaube]

The hole process will take a considerable amount of time in keeping the block temperature as low as possible

Interesting! There will come a time when these blocks (without a hole) are no longer to be found, so we better learn how to fix them.
Please take pictures and keep us posted about the outcome.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Interesting! There will come a time when these blocks (without a hole) are no longer to be found, so we better learn how to fix them.
Please take pictures and keep us posted about the outcome.

 

[NY Tom]

Someone posted this elsewhere but it's worth a link again I think. Never would have thought this would work.

Metal Stitching & Thread Repair Inserts. - Turlock , CA - LOCK-N-STITCH, Inc

LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. provides cast iron repair services such as metal stitching, emergency thread repair, fusion welding, & machining services for industries in power generation, gas compression, shipping, and pumps.

www.locknstitch.com

 

[HDN]

Interesting! There will come a time when these blocks (without a hole) are no longer to be found, so we better learn how to fix them.
Please take pictures and keep us posted about the outcome.

Someone better figure out how to make new engine blocks! Maybe someday it will be possible to 3D print motors

 

[cattlerepairman]

Someone better figure out how to make new engine blocks! Maybe someday it will be possible to 3D print motors

Or print a modern engine block layout that LOOKS as close to the old original as can be but has has modern internals? The best of both worlds...a "Cumminified" multifuel?