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Electric fuel valve M818

txturbo

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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76
18
Location
Rosenberg,TX
Next thing on my to do list. My electric and manual fuel valves don’t work. The manual one is obvious why it doesn’t work. The electric one is a little different. I’m assuming I’m suppose to get 24 Volts to it when I turn the switch to run to open it to allow fuel to get to the injection pump and when the switch is turned off it’s suppose to stop the flow. I don’t get 24v on the wire going to the valve when the switch is in the run position. But I am able to start it and drive it without the valve being energized. I haven’t had any luck finding a wiring diagram either.
 

msgjd

Well-known member
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3,316
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Location
upstate ny
if you're able to start and run it with no power to the valve, then it apparently has a manual bypass knob and someone has put it in bypass.... some engines have it, some don't ... however, when the knob is in the bypass position, the only safe way to shut the engine down is either with the dash emergency shutdown lever (and afterwards the lever on the valve at the PT pump has to be reset to start it) , or otherwise reach under the fender and manually operate the kill lever on the valve ..

You don't say how you are shutting it down , therefore, if you are able to shut it down via the normal "off-run-start" switch, then you have something electrically weird going on
 

txturbo

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
52
76
18
Location
Rosenberg,TX
I have to shut it down by stalling it. The manual shutdown cable is disconnected and the manual valve doesn’t have a lever on it any more. It’s missing and it has JB weld sealing it up. The electric one is still there and hooked up but it doesn’t do anything.
 

msgjd

Well-known member
1,080
3,316
113
Location
upstate ny
I have to shut it down by stalling it. The manual shutdown cable is disconnected and the manual valve doesn’t have a lever on it any more. It’s missing and it has JB weld sealing it up. The electric one is still there and hooked up but it doesn’t do anything.
okay good, now we can all understand that you are on the right track to getting to the bottom of it ..

You maybe have thought about disconnecting the existing wire on the valve and manually touching a temporary hot wire to the valve to test it for start up and shut down? (you will have to turn the bypass knob the other way before you do this)

Personally i don't know whether the existing wire comes direct from the Acc switch or from a relay , but it sounds like you found a schematic for it .. I have not had the problem you are having but I have had problems with the valves themselves and have had them apart.. (They are simple but be careful not to lose the spring when it launches)
 

txturbo

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
52
76
18
Location
Rosenberg,TX
okay good, now we can all understand that you are on the right track to getting to the bottom of it ..

You maybe have thought about disconnecting the existing wire on the valve and manually touching a temporary hot wire to the valve to test it for start up and shut down? (you will have to turn the bypass knob the other way before you do this)

Personally i don't know whether the existing wire comes direct from the Acc switch or from a relay , but it sounds like you found a schematic for it .. I have not had the problem you are having but I have had problems with the valves themselves and have had them apart.. (They are simple but be careful not to lose the spring when it launches)
According to the diagram, it’s a direct connection between the switch and valve. I did test for power on that wire and got nothing. I plan to work on it more this weekend. I bought both valves in case I need them.
 
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