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It's alive!!!

Thunderbirds

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Hey all,


we finally survived the transport fiasco and managed to get the M1123 to the house yesterday morning. Not to mention, no advance notice, a quick text saying "We're at the gate". Probably due to some really spotty cell phone reception within 60 miles, or no reception for 4 hours if driving through Wyoming/Nebraska to come up here. The haulers were amazingly nice folks, but didn't speak more than 4 sentences English together. We (actually my wife) managed to communicate and unload the truck by hand with the help of a slight down slope and gravity.

But its' here:


1000014671.jpg


1000014664.jpg


Installed batteries, added ATF to the power steering and tried to check oil level, but the entire dipstick tube came out of the engine compartment :cautious: . Looks like there has been some maintenance going on before someone decided to put the truck up for auction. Managed to confirm some oil was there, fired it up (took some 20 - 30 seconds to crank, thinking it has been sitting for so long but more to that later in the post) and crawled up the driveway. Power steering has almost non existent, and that was noted on the auction page.

Last night after work I started by doing some preliminary inspections. Looks like I am missing the CDR valve, just the hoses and bracket here (this is looking from the commander seat into the doghouse):



1000014704.jpg

Later I changed the oil and filter. That was an adventure by itself. The filter was cranked on so hard and probably not changed in the last 10 years, the gasket was baked onto the engine block. It took quite a bit of work and 3 different wrench styles to get it off, and had to mangle it up in the process. replaced it with the old trusty WIX 51060.

1000014710.jpg

But finally got it off, then changed the oil. Unfortunately it looked like the chocolate milk shake we all fear:

1000014707.jpg

I am really hoping the water intrusion came from the CDR valve missing and the dipstick tube being pulled, and not a headgasket failure.:cautious: Time will tell. There are signs around the head of some sloppy RTV work. More pictures to come on that.

Really didn't like the long cranking time earlier so I cleaned up some of the ground wires and ground points from the generator to the engine block and the two under the doghouse cover as well as the battery cable connectors:

1000014712.jpg1000014714.jpg

Dang, that made such a difference, it turned over less than 2 seconds and was running! Cleaning the ground cables will work wonders, for all those who ask :cool:.

I also found two glow plug wires not connected to the plugs. Will need to dig into them tonight and ohm them out to see if it was just not hooked back up or bad plugs.


Now to some questions (I know this is what you gearheads been waiting for):

1. CDR valve, where to best get one from, or does anyone have an extra I can buy? What does it really do and what are symptoms should get better when installed? Mind you, it runs and drives without and the hoses not capped!

2. Glow plugs, should I just get a new set and put them in, or ohm them out and leave if they're good? I know Black Dog sells OEM, where else can I find a trusted source for non-chinese crap?

3. Oil pressure sits at 90 now, before the oilchange it was at roughly 35, or the needle didn't move, not sure. Is that Ok, or where to start looking?

4. Seal the dipstick tube at the oil pan, can I just use some JB Weld or are there better products out there? Figured some high temp stuff should do the trick. Mainly want to keep water out if I ever go fording.

5. Volt meter isn't moving, what part of the TM should I look, or other tips?

More information, pics and tales to come, but for now...


It's ALIVE! It's A L I V E <evil laugh> hahhahaha
 

TOBASH

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Compression check the radiator and check for water in new oil!

Fill up the hubs as well as the transfer case and tranny and power steering and radiator fluid (only old school ethylene glycol and nothing that says new cars or long lasting). Brakes take only DOT 5, not DOT 3 or 4 and definitely NOT DOT 5.1. ONLY DOT 5!!!!!

Then chase electrics only AFTER ensuring you won’t grenade the drive train.

Reground all wires.

Good luck!
 

Thunderbirds

Well-known member
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Location
Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Compression check the radiator and check for water in new oil!

Fill up the hubs as well as the transfer case and tranny and power steering and radiator fluid (only old school ethylene glycol and nothing that says new cars or long lasting). Brakes take only DOT 5, not DOT 3 or 4 and definitely NOT DOT 5.1. ONLY DOT 5!!!!!

Then chase electrics only AFTER ensuring you won’t grenade the drive train.

Reground all wires.

Good luck!
Awesome, good tips. Thank you.

I'll need to bleed the brake system and refill with DOT 5. It is low, and the fluid is darker than I like.

Coolant, I opted for the Prestone all vehicles at Wally World. Should be ok?

Coolant Ingredients.JPG

Any ideas on the CDR valve, anyone?

Thanks!
 

TNDRIVER

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Hmmm, I see your point. The Safety Data Sheet from it reads:

View attachment 923955


So I am guessing it contains 80-100% Ethylene Glycol, that should work. If anyone has info contrary, please post. I haven't opened it yet.
Your missing CDR valve is the deep water fording one and includes a few other pieces that they also removed. They can be seen in the parts dia.
My go tos are Mac Motors or The Hummer Parts guy first. First line parts and they seem to go up in price daily everywhere lately no matter the source. In case you haven't noticed we have some contrarians here and I'm sure they will have a few more options for you shortly, but for now you seem to know what you are doing and get a big thumbs up from me, for what that's worth.
 

Thunderbirds

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Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Your missing CDR valve is the deep water fording one and includes a few other pieces that they also removed. They can be seen in the parts dia.
My go tos are Mac Motors or The Hummer Parts guy first. First line parts and they seem to go up in price daily everywhere lately no matter the source. In case you haven't noticed we have some contrarians here and I'm sure they will have a few more options for you shortly, but for now you seem to know what you are doing and get a big thumbs up from me, for what that's worth.
Thanks TN Driver, all replies are greatly welcome, even and especially the contrary ones. They give me pause to think, and maybe even correct my line of thinking.

As far as seeming to know what I am doing, I guess I got you fooled :p:cool::sneaky:;)

When you say "seen in the parts diagram", which one are you talking about? Is it in the TM?
CDR TM.JPG

Thanks again.
 

Mogman

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Thanks TN Driver, all replies are greatly welcome, even and especially the contrary ones. They give me pause to think, and maybe even correct my line of thinking.

As far as seeming to know what I am doing, I guess I got you fooled :p:cool::sneaky:;)

When you say "seen in the parts diagram", which one are you talking about? Is it in the TM?
View attachment 923994

Thanks again.
The one you are referencing looks like it is not the fording one, if you do not plan on loosing your mind and actually want to take your HMMWV swimming the "regular" one is all you need, much cheaper also.
 

Thunderbirds

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The one you are referencing looks like it is not the fording one, if you do not plan on loosing your mind and actually want to take your HMMWV swimming the "regular" one is all you need, much cheaper also.
Yea, I priced this one between $50 and $75 depending on availability and source. I couldn't find the fording version in the parts manual. Any idea on NSN? Just in case I'll consider. but all the other fording items seem to be removed, possibly.

EDIT:
Actually found it in the part 2 parts manual The NSN comes up as nearly the same price, but I don't think I have many of the other canisters and sensors left on the rig 😣 :

CDR TM Deep Water.JPG
 
Last edited:

TNDRIVER

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Yea, I priced this one between $50 and $75 depending on availability and source. I couldn't find the fording version in the parts manual. Any idea on NSN? Just in case I'll consider. but all the other fording items seem to be removed, possibly.

EDIT:
Actually found it in the part 2 parts manual The NSN comes up as nearly the same price, but I don't think I have many of the other canisters and sensors left on the rig 😣 :

View attachment 923995
They take 12,2 and 18 and the associated bits. Mogman is correct, if you don't intend to get in very deep water they are not needed. But you do need the regular CDR. Post one today told me all I needed to know. It show you fingernail, looks like mine !
 

Thunderbirds

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Location
Northern Black Hills South Dakota
They take 12,2 and 18 and the associated bits. Mogman is correct, if you don't intend to get in very deep water they are not needed. But you do need the regular CDR. Post one today told me all I needed to know. It show you fingernail, looks like mine !
Thanks. I really don't ever want to find myself in a situation where is is wiser to go through 30" of water than to go around...

Do I need to cap anything off, are there any open ports because of them taking the parts?
 

TNDRIVER

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Thanks. I really don't ever want to find myself in a situation where is is wiser to go through 30" of water than to go around...

Do I need to cap anything off, are there any open ports because of them taking the parts?
The fording system includes the hydroboost and the power steering reservoir into the "old" vented system. The hubs,diffs, transmission and transfer case and fuel pump and probably something I've forgot. There are 3 lines that go to the fording valve that was removed from the "dash". If you tie the lines that are left should get you to OK. Study the parts section for the vent lines to get and idea of the layout should point you in the right direction. The vent point is the small fuel filter looking item on the end of a line behind the air cleaner. You might consider while you are at it........ I just recently removed my fuel pump from this system because...... If the pump diaphragm fails it puts fuel into the vent system, first stop for said fuel is the right rear hub, dilutes the lube oil and BAD things happen. I prefer to find the bad fuel pump dripping fuel down the firewall myself. The later trucks I'm told route the pump to the fuel tank(Thanks ACTION). The parts diagram will give you a good idea of where everything is at, you will have a couple of hoses that can be discarded in you case. And i'm not going to say a word about truck drivers that can not speak english, I'm RETIRED. Have fun!

Just noticed you have the snorkel, vent is the tube running up the intake tube under the cap.
 

Thunderbirds

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Northern Black Hills South Dakota
... And i'm not going to say a word about truck drivers that can not speak english, I'm RETIRED. Have fun!

They were absolutely the best people I've met in a long time, friendly, respectful, calm. And hard working from what I gathered during the hand, foot and sign language interactions. Nothing negative to say. I wished some Americans I know would take a mental note...
 

Thunderbirds

Well-known member
262
376
63
Location
Northern Black Hills South Dakota
You might consider while you are at it........ I just recently removed my fuel pump from this system because...... If the pump diaphragm fails it puts fuel into the vent system, first stop for said fuel is the right rear hub, dilutes the lube oil and BAD things happen. I prefer to find the bad fuel pump dripping fuel down the firewall myself. The later trucks I'm told route the pump to the fuel tank(Thanks ACTION).

Just noticed you have the snorkel, vent is the tube running up the intake tube under the cap.
Really good to know, I'll have to get into the system once the new CDR valve gets here. Thanks!
 

TNDRIVER

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They were absolutely the best people I've met in a long time, friendly, respectful, calm. And hard working from what I gathered during the hand, foot and sign language interactions. Nothing negative to say. I wished some Americans I know would take a mental note...
I was/am in the business for 37 years,.................. I have stories.
 

Thunderbirds

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Location
Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Hey all,

as time goes on, one finds things inop on a fresh bought rig. Same here. My voltmeter was not registering anything, so I dug in behind the instrument cluster. Found the wire to the meter broken. And after fixing that, the needle pointed (as it should) in the yellow. However, it does not read any higher with the engine running, so -> non-charging. (BTW does anyone know where to get the crimp on electrical connectors in bulk? How many different styles/sizes are there?)

I am now in the troubleshooting area of the TM 9-2320-280-20-1, paragraph 2-27, Alternator test. I will be following the tree this weekend and figure out what part or area is defective. I would be asking for advice as I move along, mainly so I don't fry the Smartbox or other delicate electronics. Does anyone have preemptive advice?

Some info, I have a Niehoff 200 Amp Generator installed, NSN 2920-01-420-9968, part# 12447109. The other part number stamped on it is 76761-N1225-1.

Alternator Voltage regulator 2.jpg

Voltage Regulator NSN 2920-01-415-9497 (my guess based on research of the PN, couldn't find the NSN stamped on it), but Part # is there: 76761-N3117. The problem is that that part number is not showing up in the parts manual. It only refers to the N3135.

Is that installed later, installed incorrectly, or alternate part? Found the number on some Fed Part sites for the 1 1/4 ton truck. Anyone know which is better/cheaper/more reliable?

Alternator Voltage regulator.jpg

As always, Thanks!
 
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Mogman

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First thing is to see if you have exciter voltage going to the IGN. terminal when the run switch is on.
REMEMBER any time you are doing electrical work that involves turning the run switch on and off ether disconnect the TSU on the passenger side of the crossover manifold or wait at least 90 seconds from the time you turn the run switch off to back to the run position or you can fry your glow plugs
 
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