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Steering knuckle

Redleg130

Active member
72
158
33
Location
Kansas
Grease was coming out the sides of the knuckle on the inside side, where it looks like a sphere is at the end of the axle. There is a felt seal there and if its ever been serviced, its been decades. Watsons Wagons is messing with knuckles so Id thought Id give mine a go.

I found this helpful resource - Knuckle Rebuild (imageevent.com)

knuckle 1.JPG
Superwinch lockout hubs - This can be taken apart, but not needed for this project. I cant find the gaskets anywhere in any case. They seem to work well so I am happy with them.

knuckle 2.JPG
Getting the drum off

knuckle 3.JPG

knuckle 4.JPG
And the bearings

knuckle 5.JPG
Removing the brake, have not done this previously and was surprised the bolts weren't frozen. Naturally Ill have to bleed the brakes after this

knuckle 6.JPG
The knuckle housing

knuckle 7.JPG
Keeping the position of the knuckle so I can mark it after I clean the grease off so I can put it back the way it was

knuckle 8.JPG
Getting the arm out of the way

knuckle 9.JPG
The part I am stuck on

There are dowels on both sides of this housing, but they dont want to move.

dowel.png

I am using a punch pin and hammer, but these things aren't budging. I am fairly certain that I have to get these apart to get to the felt seals, part of MM - Flange oil seal in the TM, the part that holds grease in on the spherical part. I have the retaining ring/flange oil seal off, but its stuck between the knuckle housing and axle currently. I can try, but replacing the seal spring and felt seal will be super awkward like it is, stuck between the housing and axle.

Any ideas for getting that dowel out, or other tips regarding the steering knuckle service?
 

Roller

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
189
56
28
Location
North Lake, WI
Grease was coming out the sides of the knuckle on the inside side, where it looks like a sphere is at the end of the axle. There is a felt seal there and if its ever been serviced, its been decades. Watsons Wagons is messing with knuckles so Id thought Id give mine a go.

I found this helpful resource - Knuckle Rebuild (imageevent.com)

View attachment 929488
Superwinch lockout hubs - This can be taken apart, but not needed for this project. I cant find the gaskets anywhere in any case. They seem to work well so I am happy with them.

View attachment 929489
Getting the drum off

View attachment 929490

View attachment 929491
And the bearings

View attachment 929492
Removing the brake, have not done this previously and was surprised the bolts weren't frozen. Naturally Ill have to bleed the brakes after this

View attachment 929493
The knuckle housing

View attachment 929494
Keeping the position of the knuckle so I can mark it after I clean the grease off so I can put it back the way it was

View attachment 929496
Getting the arm out of the way

View attachment 929497
The part I am stuck on

There are dowels on both sides of this housing, but they dont want to move.

View attachment 929498

I am using a punch pin and hammer, but these things aren't budging. I am fairly certain that I have to get these apart to get to the felt seals, part of MM - Flange oil seal in the TM, the part that holds grease in on the spherical part. I have the retaining ring/flange oil seal off, but its stuck between the knuckle housing and axle currently. I can try, but replacing the seal spring and felt seal will be super awkward like it is, stuck between the housing and axle.

Any ideas for getting that dowel out, or other tips regarding the steering knuckle service?
You don't need to remove the knuckle to get the retainer off. The retainer flexes and you twist it to clear the axle tube. If you want to split the knuckle, support it well and use a bigger hammer.

Frank
 

Redleg130

Active member
72
158
33
Location
Kansas
This is true, the retainer can be twisted and removed. I was afraid of deforming it this way, but it seems fairly resilient and I noticed no deformities after this.

The seal does appear to be mushed up/deformed and did need replacement, but it wasn't disintegrated like I have seen other felt or rubber items elsewhere.

The advantage of splitting the knuckle would be it will be much easier to clean. I will also get access to the bearings to inspect and pack the lower one. The upper bearing is a simple bronze cone on a race. The disadvantage seems to be this is quite an undertaking with heavy parts and my dowels appear to be frozen, which isn't shocking really.

knuckle 10.JPG
the interior side of the knuckle with retainer and felt seal removed. Lots to clean and no easy way to reach it, possible, just a pain

knuckle 12.JPG
The retainer and felt seal. The seal spring wasn't in terrible shape, but was rusting through in a couple spots and its good that it is getting replaced

knuckle 11.JPG
now to knock out the bushing and the seal behind this
 

Roller

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
189
56
28
Location
North Lake, WI
This is true, the retainer can be twisted and removed. I was afraid of deforming it this way, but it seems fairly resilient and I noticed no deformities after this.

The seal does appear to be mushed up/deformed and did need replacement, but it wasn't disintegrated like I have seen other felt or rubber items elsewhere.

The advantage of splitting the knuckle would be it will be much easier to clean. I will also get access to the bearings to inspect and pack the lower one. The upper bearing is a simple bronze cone on a race. The disadvantage seems to be this is quite an undertaking with heavy parts and my dowels appear to be frozen, which isn't shocking really.

View attachment 929572
the interior side of the knuckle with retainer and felt seal removed. Lots to clean and no easy way to reach it, possible, just a pain

View attachment 929574
The retainer and felt seal. The seal spring wasn't in terrible shape, but was rusting through in a couple spots and its good that it is getting replaced

View attachment 929573F
now to knock out the bushing and the seal behind this
Support the knuckle with a pipe or 4x4, use a large punch and a 3 pound hammer and the dowel will move.

Frank
 

Redleg130

Active member
72
158
33
Location
Kansas
bigger hammer.

Frank
Bigger hammer :3

Picked up a 3lb hammer and this got the dowel to move.

knuckle 13.JPG

Chewed up the pin punch, but I didn't want my hands anywhere near this

knuckle 14.JPG
Got the knuckle split and this made getting a blind hole bearing puller in it easier. NAPA apparently loans tools for a deposit, which they refund. I had no idea this was available and its pretty great. Harbor freight sells a blind hole bearing puller, but only up to 1 1/4, and this hole is 1 1/2. NAPA had a spreading claw type thing and a slide hammer which got the bushing and inner seal out.

There appears to be a recessed area for the inner seal, and one for the bronze bushing

With the knuckle house off, I can see how grease is supposed to go - it comes in over the bronze top pivot, and into the inner housing, then out a relief hole on the bottom of the inner housing. The bottom bearing does not seem to have a path for fresh grease, but I suppose it really does not move much, just the side to side of steering.

Its good to get these thing apart and gain an understanding of what is happening, the knuckle has been a mystery to me until getting into it

knuckle 15.JPG
The bronze bushing does have some slop, not extreme, but its good that it is getting replaced. Replacements are on backorder, I should have looked in my shipment before I started taking this apart.

knuckle 16.JPG
The split housing - I had it supported when I split it so it wouldn't drop

knuckle 17.JPG

The old inner seal and the replacements - for the replacements do the hollow sides face the differential or the solid side? The old inner seal also appears much thicker than the replacements.

The old one is chewed up from removal, but there does not seem to be much sealing material, just gunk and the inner spring. Whatever was there disintegrated or something.
 
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