MEP-803A Will no longer start seems to be fuel issue not sure how.

[deherenman]

Thank you Colt I will check that out. I believe I came across that last night as well so I have it bookmarked..


So has a side note I am curious the white wires that are wiring everything up thermostat oil shut off switch etc I think I have three or four broken wires at this point. And I need to splice on some extenders because I splice them a couple of times before and they're getting a little short.

1. Is there a specific wire to use copper, aluminum, stranded gauge?
Or alternatively you something like cat6.
2. For the splice itself am I okay to use the traditional wire nuts or a wago?
3. Is splicing even advisable or am I better off running a new stretch of wire from beginning to end for each of the broken wires?

At this point I'm still reassembling everything.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Check out his thread...
Filler coupler

Not to be a wet blanket, but Fernco's list of compatible fluids lists both kerosene and gasoline as "Not Recommended".

Acid Resistance Chart | Fernco - US

R = Recommended | N = Not Recommended Reagent Flexible Coupling 70°F Proflex 70°F Acetic Acid 20% R R Acetic Acid 80% N N Acetone N N Alcohol (Methyl or Ethyl) R R Aluminum Chloride R R Aluminum Sulfate R R Alums R R Am

www.fernco.com

Silicone is not generally compatible with diesel either.

Buna-N or nitrile hose should be generally compatible with diesel.

@deherenman the wire in the generators is TFFT, aka Tape /Fiberglass/Fiberglass /Tape, where the tape is usually Teflon. It is a wire rated for very high temperature use under adverse conditions, like diesel/JP8. Smaller gauges are readily available (Amazon, etc.) Large gauge is a bit harder to find, often sold as toaster or dryer wire, and most of the big wire and cable suppliers often sell it. (eBay, as well)


All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[deherenman]

So got crank seal and fuel line to fix fuel leak. @CallMeColt Still need to get fuel tank fill neck worked out. Oil leak crank cover fixed. (gasket sealer on order)

Main issue is rack is still not shutting off when a turn the key. Shutoff solenoid is working and sliding lever like it should. Seems like it isn't going far enough forward to kill fuel. Maybe internally. Not sure how to prove that as you can't have Gear end over off well engine is running to test.

Rack moves freely looked in plug hold and also had gear end cover off to check as well.

Rack is free idols up and down no issues. Starts fine. Primes fine.

So not sure how to fix. I was thinking air cut off. put a full throat ball valve at air intake. Ideas ?

https://www.amazon.com/DAN-SPEED-Female-Stainless-WOG1000/dp/B0C1N4RPH4/?th=1

Or is it better to cut off fuel pump with a kill switch?

Not sure what else to do about the unit not shutting down. As well not sure what I could be missing. As everything seems to be working. In the rack / shutoff lever / IP's are in rack correctly. When looking with USB camera. As well as rack moving by end / shut off level when gear end cover is off.


As always I am open to ideas but sort of beating my head on the wall hear wondering?

 

[Ray70]

If the engine won't quite shut down when the fuel lever is fully forward, either the pumps are out of position ( should be rotated fully counter clockwise until fuel inlet hoses are touching the pushrod tubes ) or the fuel lever stop screw needs to be backed out a little bit, allowing the rack to move slightly further towards the front of the engine.

 

[deherenman]

So I hadn't adjusted the shut off screw. The two screws that are right in front of the shut off lever. Because those were in the original position and they had that little clip tie wire braided thing around it. I don't know if that's too Mark the place that they were at.

As well I put the IPs back in the original position where the Barb of the IP was between the post and the block so the screw in post and the block and that's where they were prior to them coming out. If I were to move them towards the front of the engine they would be on the other side of the threaded post. And in all the pictures I've seen online or in video I haven't seen any with the Barb that close to the front of the engine.

I didn't know if that would mess up the fuel mixture having them that far forward but if it allows the rack to shut off then maybe that's the incorrect approach. I'm just not sure. I was trying to put it back to how I had it prior to removing IPs. As it used to work in that position for shutting off and I don't know why it wouldn't continue to work in that position. As now the rack is free and moves freely I check that when I took the gear and cover off this morning.



I will certainly give that a try and report back. Unless there are other ideas out there certainly willing to give that a try.

 

[Ray70]

Sounds like you're misunderstanding me.
Rotate them Counter clockwise so the fuel line is touching the pushrod tube on the right side of the pump. Sounds like you are currently between the bolt and pushrod.
It sounds like you are imagining this the other way, trying to touch the pushrod on the left side of the metering pump.... by putting the fuel inlet on the left side of the bolt.... that's incorrect.

 

[CallMeColt]

Did you bend that tab on the rack to where it should be as previously suggested? Maybe your issue is in the solenoid itself, or the linkage?

 

[deherenman]

Here are some pictures of where my IPs are positioned.

I didn't bend the tab because I thought it would make it to where it wasn't going to catch more then now. It just looked like it would be slightly off but it is engaging. I'll try and video it again to see if maybe I need to bend it just a little bit.

 

[Ray70]

The pumps are a little out of position, in 1 picture it seems to be almost 1/2 " away from the pushrod tube.
Make all of them TOUCH the pushrod tube.
The rotational position of the pump directly affects the metering pump pin's location relative to the pump body, which directly affects fuel pump volume per stroke and fuel flow shut off position relative to rack position.

 

[deherenman]

Okay I will make the change probably tonight or tomorrow and report back. We'll see if that fixes it it's probably very easy that I got these out of position. Unfortunately I didn't mark them with an all or a scribe before I pulled them out. That was a oversight on my part that would have definitely made things easier I think I'd rather do the rotation or at least try it before I go monkeying around with anything else. Hopefully that is the ticket.

 

[Guyfang]

If that doesn't fix it, take some GOOD pictures of the shutoff linkage.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Okay I will make the change probably tonight or tomorrow and report back. We'll see if that fixes it it's probably very easy that I got these out of position. Unfortunately I didn't mark them with an all or a scribe before I pulled them out. That was a oversight on my part that would have definitely made things easier I think I'd rather do the rotation or at least try it before I go monkeying around with anything else. Hopefully that is the ticket.

You might even want to consider resetting them all, one at a time. Its easy once you understand exactly how the position of the entire metering pump assembly actually controls the flow of fuel. And how to position the fuel rack to pick up each pin at the right position. To do it right, you will probably want to cut the factory metal wire tag on the stops... but just try to reposition without all that first.

 

[deherenman]

Update. I removed the gear and cover. So I could see if the rack was sticking as I was adjusting each IP I rotated them counterclockwise to where the push tubes were touching the barb and the unit does start it does shut down although it shuts down slowly please see attached video. At this point I still have other things to do for the oil link at the crate case cover. But outside of that I would say engine wise we are sitting pretty good. I also need to test out the radiator see if I have a leak there because I only drained a half a gallon of fluid out of the radiator and there was nothing else in there so I need to see where that's disappearing to it wasn't in the oil so it could either be being burnt or I have a leak that I didn't see.

 

[Ray70]

Well you're getting there!
It seems like 1 or more of the metering pumps is just on the edge of the fuel off position and may be letting a tiny amount of fuel reach the injectors.
Verify the lever arm is touching the stop screw when you disengage the solenoid.
If it in touching, try loosening the jam nut and backing the screw out 2 turns and test it again to see if it shuts down faster.

 

[Guyfang]

Have someone else make a good Vid of you STARTING & STOPPING. That way we can observe how the linkage is working.

 

[deherenman]

Here is video of the linkage I did a before so it has the slow shutdown time and then I shot two videos after. They want is kind of long and I was trying to show the hurts but I was actually pointing at the wrong gauge until the end. But with a slight adjustment the unit does shut down relatively quickly. I can always put the set screw back to where it was prior because I just turned it in I didn't adjust the nut on the other side until I'm comfortable with it as well I will mark it.

If anybody has suggestions I'm open to them or if you think I have it tuned in pretty good.

Linkage before set screw adjustment.

M e p 803A linkage before set screw adjustment.

youtube.com

Set screw adjustment first attempt.

M e p 803A adjustment to set screw after IP rotation first attempt.

youtube.com

Set screw adjustment second attempt also showing gauges.

 

[deherenman]

As a comparison here is what it was like prior to the rack issue first startup and shut down and this is how it acted for the first several months didn't have that little stutter when it first fires up and it shut down about the same speed as what it is now from what I can tell. Just as a comparison here is the video link from the first startup and shutdown

 

[kloppk]

 

[deherenman]

I have a league at the thermostat housing. I'm not 100% sure if that is when I replace the thermostat because I only drained a half a gallon of fluid out of the radiator so I have the suspicion that this week was there prior. I filled the radiator back in September of 2023 when I was servicing the machine and I was always adding fluid to the overfill bottle.

Going to try some gasket sealer see if that stops her up. On the thermostat gasket cap.
Hoses don't appear to be leaking.

Tried to catch it on video not sure if it's going to be visible or not have two different video shots one's kind of noisy because of the air compressor.

 

[justinn]

Sorry to join the party so late.... Do you have an infrared thermometer? It sounds to me like there is a miss on one of the cylinders(possibly due to an IP or adjustment issue). The 803A is a pretty smooth runner when running optimally(unlike the 802A which is a crazy vibration generator). If you temp each exhaust outlet, it should tell you if one is not getting enough(to too much) fuel. I know you have a FMS leak, but putting it under load would also help.

Justin