Couple of issues with MEP 803 A

[WillsC]

When hurricane Helena came through we lost power for about 10 hours and the gen ran perfectly. During hurricane Milton we were out of power for 3 days and again the generator made life so so much easier but there was one issue I hope to get some advice on.

1. The fuel gauge which had been erratic stopped working and simply stayed at 3/4 tank on the display and stayed at 0% on the remote start display. Tested it today and it is bad no problem.

2. On the first day out of power the gen was purring along when out of the blue it stumbled badly and died, it didn't open the contactor just died. I had just put 5 gallon of fuel in it about 3? hours before so knew it couldn't be out of fuel. Went in to the outbuilding that the gen calls home and there was diesel all over the concrete and sprayed all inside the case. After filling it and restarting, saw that the leak was on top of the engine. Took the top off the gen and the far right hand injector return line? I think that is what it is, the T had broken and was spewing fuel. Luckily for me I happened to have a drip irrigation T that was the same size and while not ideal did the job and saw us through till the power came back. Have now ordered 4 new brass T's and will install them when they arrive...can't believe they use plastic or nylon whatever it is for those parts.

I was sure though that if the fuel got too low the contactor should open and the machine would shut down? Today when testing the fuel sender I took out the other sender and the tube is coated in a sticky brown substance which had both of the floats stuck to the shaft. First what can I used to clean off that tube and second is there something you can add to the fuel tank to prevent it happening again?

 

[WWRD99]

I use carb cleaner to get the goo off. Sounds like the diesel at one point sat and did the moss grow stuff. You can use a diesel conditioner to keep stuff from growing in it or drain the tank if it's going to sit for a while. I assume since you're in a high humidity area it doesn't take long for stuff to grow. The t you're talking about should be replaced with the brass ones plus a new hose. I think some use quarter inch fuel line but I think the metric size is 3.5mm braided stuff that's in it. Glad it worked for you when you needed it though! It still drives me nuts that one tiny part can make everything dark quick! I'd look into the fuel line connections in the tank too. They like to leak as well. .kinda while you're in there thing.

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[WillsC]

Yes it is nice after coming back in from cleaning up downed trees to have a happy wife, a warm meal and a cool house.

Thank you on the carb cleaner, I wasn't sure if it would hurt the floats, will do that.

I try to keep the tank full to prevent moisture and the gen is inside a building. The failed fuel sender did though have some rust on it.

If you mean the well nut in the tank I did that right after getting the gen which was like 5 years ago?? As well as the varistor mod. Fuse mod was already done when I purchased it.

The return fuel line looked ok but you are right, when in there might as well. Do you know how many feet of fuel line is required?

 

[WWRD99]

I think I bought 6 feet of it just to be safe. I ordered the original style hose so I didn't want to come up short. Carb cleaner is pretty mild. Don't use brake clean that could eat the floats.

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[WillsC]

Thank you, appreciate the advice.

 

[WillsC]

Got the carb cleaner and it took off the residue instantly. One other bit of information is that someone had been in to the low fuel /aux fuel sender before and I assume replaced it as there is no plug just butt connectors. When they reinstalled it they only used 2 of the 5 bolts and im sure those 3 little holes helped moisture get in the tank. Probably would have been worse but the gens home is under roof.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Got the carb cleaner and it took off the residue instantly. One other bit of information is that someone had been in to the low fuel /aux fuel sender before and I assume replaced it as there is no plug just butt connectors. When they reinstalled it they only used 2 of the 5 bolts and im sure those 3 little holes helped moisture get in the tank. Probably would have been worse but the gens home is under roof.

That's great. I would just check that the missing screws aren't behind or under the fuel tank. It would not be pleasant if a loose screw wore a hole in the tank. (That tip is courtesy of @Guyfang, who put the fear of that into me.)

With only two screws in, I would double check that the alignment of the holes is correct, and that the alignment of the float is correct when the holes match up. The plate is an SAE plate with unequal hole spacing.

All the best,

2PbFeet

 

[Guyfang]

I always mark the plate before removal, that way you get it right when installing.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Me, too. The hole to hole variance is too subtle to be easily identified by my eyes.

I have a truck where the factory (!) used something like an angle grinder to set alignment marks in the floats and tanks.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[Ray70]

Note, on the dual float assembly the float tube position is adjustable separately from the SAE flange bolt pattern, so you also need to make sure that with the flange oriented correctly, the float assembly should be oriented left to right inside the tank, parallel to the long side of the tank.

 

[WWRD99]

Got the carb cleaner and it took off the residue instantly. One other bit of information is that someone had been in to the low fuel /aux fuel sender before and I assume replaced it as there is no plug just butt connectors. When they reinstalled it they only used 2 of the 5 bolts and im sure those 3 little holes helped moisture get in the tank. Probably would have been worse but the gens home is under roof.

You can pop a plug on it. Just need to make sure they get put in line with each other. Weather style plugs are not that hard to get. Glad it cleaned up easy.

 

[WillsC]

I always mark the plate before removal, that way you get it right when installing.

Well that ship has sailed.

 

[WillsC]

That's great. I would just check that the missing screws aren't behind or under the fuel tank. It would not be pleasant if a loose screw wore a hole in the tank. (That tip is courtesy of @Guyfang, who put the fear of that into me.)

With only two screws in, I would double check that the alignment of the holes is correct, and that the alignment of the float is correct when the holes match up. The plate is an SAE plate with unequal hole spacing.

All the best,

2PbFeet

Had not noticed you could see behind or under the tank? Will look though.

 

[Guyfang]

Well that ship has sailed.


How do you think I learned that trick? Just like you!!

 

[2Pbfeet]

Had not noticed you could see behind or under the tank? Will look though.

I think that you can't, really.

@Guyfang wrote that the best way is to pull the tank (I didn't do that.) Second best, and it is definitely not as good as pulling the tank, is to run a borescope around and behind, but you can't see under the tank, or at least I couldn't. The process is a bit of a PITA, but ended up being worth it to me as I found several nuts and a bolt various places in there, none of which I had lost. While I was in the area so to speak, I replaced the nuts around the fuel filler neck with some stainless rivet nuts, as I thought a couple of those filler neck nuts required more manual dexterity than I have, or at least more practice.

All the best,

2Pbfeet