Scoobyshep
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In 1p 240 name plate is 52 amps
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Just beginning my mep-003a journey
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Rodburner
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Now about the parts machine, what’s my best option? It is missing the fuel tank, fuel pumps, starter, control panel, and now shut off solenoid. Injectors will need to be rebuilt as well as the injector pump. Condition of the engine and generator are unknown.
If I work on pump and injectors and set up a makeshift fuel supply th will allow the engine to be tested. Those parts will still be needed spares for the original genset. I haven’t looked for a replacement control panel or can one be built cheaper?
I’ll stop there and let you all steer me in the right direction. Thanks!
If I work on pump and injectors and set up a makeshift fuel supply th will allow the engine to be tested. Those parts will still be needed spares for the original genset. I haven’t looked for a replacement control panel or can one be built cheaper?
I’ll stop there and let you all steer me in the right direction. Thanks!
Scoobyshep
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If you just need to make the engine run it's actually pretty easy
Rodburner
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Okay thanks. Always better to rely on rated values. So are the main breakers rated for 50 amps per?
Rodburner
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Is that what the slave connection for?
Scoobyshep
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It has an absolute value of 100 due to 120 single phase, but the trip points change based on mode. What is your planned use ?
Scoobyshep
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Slave is for jump starting
Rodburner
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Planned use is for 240v 30a breaker for heating elements from cooktop. 20a single pole breaker for pump and lights. Might also have a 2 pole 50a breaker for wire welder on lower settings.
Scoobyshep
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What I would do is set the panel up for the largest load.
2Pbfeet
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@Rodburner I would go ahead and use a 100A panel, even though you are unlikely to produce 50A of 120V load. Just use a 50A main breaker, if you can find one. Or use a50A RV hookup panel and feed a second panel with more circuits.
I don't know if this helps, but the large loads that you describe are 240V, so split evenly across the two phases of US "single phase", which is really two single phases of 120V that are 180 degrees out of phase to generate 240V. So, the 52A 240V capacity is 52A per 120V leg. If a generator is set for 120V only, the capacity becomes 2x52A=104A. Make sense?
All the best,
2Pbfeet
I don't know if this helps, but the large loads that you describe are 240V, so split evenly across the two phases of US "single phase", which is really two single phases of 120V that are 180 degrees out of phase to generate 240V. So, the 52A 240V capacity is 52A per 120V leg. If a generator is set for 120V only, the capacity becomes 2x52A=104A. Make sense?
All the best,
2Pbfeet
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Makes enough sense for what I’m doing. If you get too in depth my eyes will glaze over and you’ll just be exercising your thumbs.
Can the main breakers be used for wire protection?
Scoobyshep
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thats what breakers are for, to protect the wire. the panel main would protect the wire from the set to the panel
Rodburner
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Yes, just making sure they will protect the generator. If I run over sized wires to a panel without a main they would serve as a main. The cost of a 100 amp panel without a main is cheaper than one with.
Scoobyshep
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The breaker on the generator is designed to protect the generator. I am not completely sold personally on the how effective that particular breaker is (too many mixed results). Also you dont have to go too oversized in the feeder.
2Pbfeet
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Thanks for the laugh. My thumbs don't need more exercise.That is a bit of a "have you stopped beating your wife yet?" question to me. If the breakers are sized appropriately, then yes! That's the point. Breakers and fuses are there to protect the wires at a minimum, and perhaps also the devices on the circuit. Bad things like fires happen if wires get overloaded, and speaking from experience fires in walls are tough to fight and do lot of damage.
Unlike @Guyfang and others, I am not a certified electrician, so don't rely on my electrical advice.
You can put slightly heavier (larger) wires on a circuit, but each breaker will have an upper limit of the size (gauge) of wire and temperature limits that it will take, there are ampacity charts and calculators available. So, don't expect a 100A breaker to protect your generator. For short distances, 6AWG copper wire or cable probably would be sufficient for 50A loads. If you plan on pushing the limit for hours at a time, 6 is probably not sufficient unless you also upgrade the wiring (either gauge or temperature rating, or both) to tolerate higher temperatures.
Ampacity Calculator
The purpose of this calculator is to determine the ampacity of conductors in conduit, cable, or directly buried. All calculations are based on the National Electrical Code®.
www.cerrowire.com
Voltage Drop Tables
Voltage drop becomes important when the length of a run of wire or cable becomes very long. Usually this is not a problem in circuits within a house, but may become an issue when running wire to an outbuilding, well pump, etc.
www.cerrowire.com
Mil-spec cable tends to be significantly higher specification with respect to temperature ratings, and usually more resistant to oil/diesel fuel, the latter of which has a tendency to degrade many types of insulation.
I think that @Scoobyshep makes some good points about the potential fallibility of the generator breaker. There are enough reports of issues that I would not rely on it to save your bacon. Circuit breakers have a limited lifetime, and in home usage, home inspectors start recommending replacing them after twenty years or so. Most of these generators are past that age.
Circuit Breaker Replacement: How Long Breakers Last (Complete Guide)
Electric circuit breakers come in various sizes and types and protect your home's electrical system by monitoring and shutting off electricity when problems
homeinspectioninsider.com
I have zero personal experience running lifetime studies on mil-spec breakers, but anecdotally there seem to be mil-spec breakers that lived up to expectations and some that didn't. I defer to folks here with more hands on experience.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
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Unlike @Guyfang and others, I am not a certified electrician, so don't rely on my electrical advice.
I am NOT a certified electrician in America.
I am NOT a certified electrician in America.
Scoobyshep
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I am though