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Just beginning my mep-003a journey

Scoobyshep

Well-known member
1,133
1,500
113
Location
Florida
You folks have been busy here today. Thanks for all the help and tips you’ve given. Iv slipiped into Colorado for the weekend to help my daughter move so no updates.
Since the plans for the generator is to be a stand alone power supply, should I mount a 100 amp breaker box to the skid and supply power through it? I thought I read somewhere that the 003a could generate just above 100 amps per leg when switched to 1ph 240v.
In 1p 240 name plate is 52 amps
 

Rodburner

Member
33
58
18
Location
NW Oklahoma
Now about the parts machine, what’s my best option? It is missing the fuel tank, fuel pumps, starter, control panel, and now shut off solenoid. Injectors will need to be rebuilt as well as the injector pump. Condition of the engine and generator are unknown.
If I work on pump and injectors and set up a makeshift fuel supply th will allow the engine to be tested. Those parts will still be needed spares for the original genset. I haven’t looked for a replacement control panel or can one be built cheaper?
I’ll stop there and let you all steer me in the right direction. Thanks!
 

Scoobyshep

Well-known member
1,133
1,500
113
Location
Florida
Now about the parts machine, what’s my best option? It is missing the fuel tank, fuel pumps, starter, control panel, and now shut off solenoid. Injectors will need to be rebuilt as well as the injector pump. Condition of the engine and generator are unknown.
If I work on pump and injectors and set up a makeshift fuel supply th will allow the engine to be tested. Those parts will still be needed spares for the original genset. I haven’t looked for a replacement control panel or can one be built cheaper?
I’ll stop there and let you all steer me in the right direction. Thanks!
If you just need to make the engine run it's actually pretty easy
 

Rodburner

Member
33
58
18
Location
NW Oklahoma
Planned use is for 240v 30a breaker for heating elements from cooktop. 20a single pole breaker for pump and lights. Might also have a 2 pole 50a breaker for wire welder on lower settings.
 

2Pbfeet

Well-known member
431
771
93
Location
Mt. Hamilton, CA
@Rodburner I would go ahead and use a 100A panel, even though you are unlikely to produce 50A of 120V load. Just use a 50A main breaker, if you can find one. Or use a50A RV hookup panel and feed a second panel with more circuits.

I don't know if this helps, but the large loads that you describe are 240V, so split evenly across the two phases of US "single phase", which is really two single phases of 120V that are 180 degrees out of phase to generate 240V. So, the 52A 240V capacity is 52A per 120V leg. If a generator is set for 120V only, the capacity becomes 2x52A=104A. Make sense?

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 

Rodburner

Member
33
58
18
Location
NW Oklahoma
@Rodburner I would go ahead and use a 100A panel, even though you are unlikely to produce 50A of 120V load. Just use a 50A main breaker, if you can find one. Or use a50A RV hookup panel and feed a second panel with more circuits.

I don't know if this helps, but the large loads that you describe are 240V, so split evenly across the two phases of US "single phase", which is really two single phases of 120V that are 180 degrees out of phase to generate 240V. So, the 52A 240V capacity is 52A per 120V leg. If a generator is set for 120V only, the capacity becomes 2x52A=104A. Make sense?

All the best,

2Pbfeet
Makes enough sense for what I’m doing. If you get too in depth my eyes will glaze over and you’ll just be exercising your thumbs.
Can the main breakers be used for wire protection?
 

Scoobyshep

Well-known member
1,133
1,500
113
Location
Florida
Yes, just making sure they will protect the generator. If I run over sized wires to a panel without a main they would serve as a main. The cost of a 100 amp panel without a main is cheaper than one with.
The breaker on the generator is designed to protect the generator. I am not completely sold personally on the how effective that particular breaker is (too many mixed results). Also you dont have to go too oversized in the feeder.
 

2Pbfeet

Well-known member
431
771
93
Location
Mt. Hamilton, CA
Makes enough sense for what I’m doing. If you get too in depth my eyes will glaze over and you’ll just be exercising your thumbs.
Can the main breakers be used for wire protection?
😆 Thanks for the laugh. My thumbs don't need more exercise.

That is a bit of a "have you stopped beating your wife yet?" question to me. If the breakers are sized appropriately, then yes! That's the point. Breakers and fuses are there to protect the wires at a minimum, and perhaps also the devices on the circuit. Bad things like fires happen if wires get overloaded, and speaking from experience fires in walls are tough to fight and do lot of damage.

Unlike @Guyfang and others, I am not a certified electrician, so don't rely on my electrical advice.

You can put slightly heavier (larger) wires on a circuit, but each breaker will have an upper limit of the size (gauge) of wire and temperature limits that it will take, there are ampacity charts and calculators available. So, don't expect a 100A breaker to protect your generator. For short distances, 6AWG copper wire or cable probably would be sufficient for 50A loads. If you plan on pushing the limit for hours at a time, 6 is probably not sufficient unless you also upgrade the wiring (either gauge or temperature rating, or both) to tolerate higher temperatures.

Mil-spec cable tends to be significantly higher specification with respect to temperature ratings, and usually more resistant to oil/diesel fuel, the latter of which has a tendency to degrade many types of insulation.

I think that @Scoobyshep makes some good points about the potential fallibility of the generator breaker. There are enough reports of issues that I would not rely on it to save your bacon. Circuit breakers have a limited lifetime, and in home usage, home inspectors start recommending replacing them after twenty years or so. Most of these generators are past that age.

I have zero personal experience running lifetime studies on mil-spec breakers, but anecdotally there seem to be mil-spec breakers that lived up to expectations and some that didn't. I defer to folks here with more hands on experience.

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 

Rodburner

Member
33
58
18
Location
NW Oklahoma
Wow good to be home! 1300 miles, up over 3 passes (1 twice) and most of the mountain driving was pulling a 6’ by12’ U-Haul trailer. But that’s what parents are for, and I do enjoy the traveling.
Now back to the generator discussion. I read back through the posts and as usual, probably didn’t give enough pertinent information. The generator will set close enough to the loads that a 15’ extension cord will reach. So mounting a breaker box (panel) to the generator and feeding a 50 amp receptacle and a 30 amp receptacle, both also mounted to the generator should meet my needs. I now see how an RV box works as the main breaker when wired in before the 100 amp panel. Then the wiring can all be sized according to the breaker it’s connected to.
Now for something that I failed to ask. Do I plug in my 120v pump and possibly lighting into the generator’s courtesy receptacle? Or should another one be wired in from the breaker panel? Thanks guys but I won’t be able to stay awake for the answers.
 

Rodburner

Member
33
58
18
Location
NW Oklahoma
The courtesy outlet isn't made for heavy loads. If it were me I'd wire in a 120 outlet to the panel
Thanks for the advice. I understand if you feel specific information shouldn’t be given. You don’t know me and wouldn’t want there to be a misunderstanding and I do something that gets me hurt or damages equipment. I have worked with electricians and know how to do basic wiring but am not educated on all the do’s and don’ts. All the information about how this generator works and how to operate it has helped a lot. Thanks for your patience in answering the questions I didn’t know how to ask.
 
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