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Just beginning my mep-003a journey

Scoobyshep

Scoobyshep

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Rodburner said:
Thanks for the advice. I understand if you feel specific information shouldn’t be given. You don’t know me and wouldn’t want there to be a misunderstanding and I do something that gets me hurt or damages equipment. I have worked with electricians and know how to do basic wiring but am not educated on all the do’s and don’ts. All the information about how this generator works and how to operate it has helped a lot. Thanks for your patience in answering the questions I didn’t know how to ask.
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I personally would never withhold information, I also tend to answer short and simple because i tend to ramble and get really boring.
The convenience outlet is wired before the main breaker, so the main breaker wont shutoff anything plugged in there. Its own breaker is fairly low rated (IIRC 12 amps, but dont quote me on it).

If you dont know something or have doubts ASK. I would rather answer silly questions than have someone get hurt.
 
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Ray70

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Regarding your parts machine, the missing parts will be quite expensive to source individually.
I have everything you need, but my suggestion would be to get the engine running first.
If you could find a complete parts machine nearby for a reasonable price, that would be your most cost effective solution.
Or turn it into a civilianization project. eliminate the AC reconnect box, eliminate the control cube and use an AVR, aftermarket fuel tank and pumps and your own breaker panel setup.
Or just keep it for spare parts for the other ( or a future ) generator.
 
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Rodburner

Member
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Location
NW Oklahoma
Ray70 said:
Regarding your parts machine, the missing parts will be quite expensive to source individually.
I have everything you need, but my suggestion would be to get the engine running first.
If you could find a complete parts machine nearby for a reasonable price, that would be your most cost effective solution.
Or turn it into a civilianization project. eliminate the AC reconnect box, eliminate the control cube and use an AVR, aftermarket fuel tank and pumps and your own breaker panel setup.
Or just keep it for spare parts for the other ( or a future ) generator.
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Thanks, I was hoping someone would have some suggestions. I’m only into this project for $500.00 plus the parts it took to get it running so I should be able to do okay. My thoughts were to get the better machine running and sell it after the parts machine was deemed operational also. I don’t need a “by the book “ machine as long as I understand how the civilization one operates. I will use the running machine for a while to make sure it’s sound.
Everybody’s suggestions are welcome but the second machine project will be on hold for quite a while.
 
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Rodburner

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Location
NW Oklahoma
2Pbfeet, found the oil pressure switch on Amazon. The wife and I got a kick out of that once I figured out where the “jungle site “ was. Installed it today and will call the mechanic that helped me repair the engine and see if he wants to observe a cold start up. I’ll let everyone know how it goes. Thanks!
 
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2Pbfeet

Well-known member
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Mt. Hamilton, CA
Rodburner said:
2Pbfeet, found the oil pressure switch on Amazon. The wife and I got a kick out of that once I figured out where the “jungle site “ was. Installed it today and will call the mechanic that helped me repair the engine and see if he wants to observe a cold start up. I’ll let everyone know how it goes. Thanks!
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Sorry!

I wasn't intending to be obscure. I'm glad that you both got a laugh off it.

More to the point, I hope that it fixes your problem!
All the best,

2Pbfeet
 
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Rodburner

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Location
NW Oklahoma
Well the generator is up and running. Wired in a 100 amp breaker box using a 60 amp breaker for the main. It powers a 50 amp outlet and 2-20 amp receptacles. Used 6 gauge Cu from generator lugs to 60 amp main and 8 and 12 gauge wire for 50 and 20 amp receptacles respectively. Breaker box has ground wire from it to frame ground then to the ground rod.
Started the generator and let it warm up while checking voltages along the path. All looked good. Put about a 30 amp load on it for around 4 hours and everything seems to be working fine except… Amazon pressure switch isn’t closing haha. No biggy.
 
Scoobyshep

Scoobyshep

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Florida
Rodburner said:
Well the generator is up and running. Wired in a 100 amp breaker box using a 60 amp breaker for the main. It powers a 50 amp outlet and 2-20 amp receptacles. Used 6 gauge Cu from generator lugs to 60 amp main and 8 and 12 gauge wire for 50 and 20 amp receptacles respectively. Breaker box has ground wire from it to frame ground then to the ground rod.
Started the generator and let it warm up while checking voltages along the path. All looked good. Put about a 30 amp load on it for around 4 hours and everything seems to be working fine except… Amazon pressure switch isn’t closing haha. No biggy.
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If you are back feeding a breaker for the main you either need a bolted in breaker or some other form of Anchorage to the bus bar you cannot rely on a snap and breaker to be a back fed main

Just one of those code got you FYI things
 
R

Rodburner

Member
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Location
NW Oklahoma
Scoobyshep said:
If you are back feeding a breaker for the main you either need a bolted in breaker or some other form of Anchorage to the bus bar you cannot rely on a snap and breaker to be a back fed main

Just one of those code got you FYI things
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That’s why I’m not an electrician. I looked online and found a device that’s made for the box I used. What would be the reasoning behind the code?
 
Scoobyshep

Scoobyshep

Well-known member
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Location
Florida
Rodburner said:
That’s why I’m not an electrician. I looked online and found a device that’s made for the box I used. What would be the reasoning behind the code?
Click to expand...
In the normal configuration, you can pull a breaker and the buss remains live and the breaker doesnt. When backfed breakers (especially QO) have live bits sticking out and able to hit things.
 
R

Rodburner

Member
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Location
NW Oklahoma
So I started the generator yesterday afternoon and let it warm up, then applied the load. It worked fine for a while but at times white smoke would blow out the exhaust, light amount and engine sound would change slightly. Then the engine blew gra smoke,bogged down and died. Smoke was coming from the 3 & 4 cylinders’ exhaust. That part of the engine only had injectors replaced. Called the mechanic and he suggested adding atf to help lubricate the ip. I added a quart to what I figured was about 4 gallons of diesel in the tank. I had treated the fuel with “hot shots” before I filled the tank. Started the engine and let it run and it seemed to be a little quieter after about a minute. There was slight smoke coming out the exhaust. Began applying a load on the generator and noticed the % amps meter was fluctuating above 50% and back down to 0% (this could be the heaters). As the load increased the engine would pull and Hz would only drop from 60.1 to 59.8. I’m noticing blow by com out of oil filler tube. And at times 3 & 4 exhaust would turn gray as load increased. Took a couple of videos and spent all night and part of this morning trying to get them to YouTube, hopefully I can link them here. What are your thoughts? Fuel system was cleaned and filters replaced. Let’s see if I can link the videos, the one that is less than a minute shows blow by and gray smoke. The other one which is over 2 minutes only shows the meters as the load fluctuates.
 
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