Bricked ?

[Goki]

I recently purchased a 2003 M1078A1 LMTV from gov planet. It was posted as running but needed a jump. I tried to jump it when it got here but no luck I even smoked a wire in the process as I connected to the load side of the solenoid I found the wire I smoked it’s like p193-5. But after replacing the batteries there is no power to the dash there’s not even power past the solenoid.
I’m pretty new to these kind of vehicles I just hope I haven’t ruined it

 

[NDT]

You might have damaged something. But guess what you came to the right place for diagnostic support on these. Need to know if you have your batteries connected properly to begin with. You are aware the truck has a combo 12 & 24 volt system right?

 

[Goki]

You might have damaged something. But guess what you came to the right place for diagnostic support on these. Need to know if you have your batteries connected properly to begin with. You are aware the truck has a combo 12 & 24 volt system right?

Yeah I just replace the old batteries in the same configuration that was there.

 

[NDT]

What voltage did you apply to which solenoid, the 12 or 24 volt one? Is the battery connection correct? GP and the Army for that matter likely could have gotten it wrong.

 

[Guyfang]

Never hook it up, "Like it was before". You just repeat the mistake some else made before you. Always look at a TM, schematic or the diagram on the battery box, if it is there.

 

[Goki]

I double checked it and made sure the connections where matching what the lugs were labled as. I have 12.6v and 24.something volts at the other terminal
I made a typo its 25.3 volts it didnt gain .3 volts

 

[Goki]

Never hook it up, "Like it was before". You just repeat the mistake some else made before you. Always look at a TM, schematic or the diagram on the battery box, if it is there.

Thanks

 

[Goki]

What voltage did you apply to which solenoid, the 12 or 24 volt one? Is the battery connection correct? GP and the Army for that matter likely could have gotten it wrong.

I connected a jumper pack to 24v terminals, the ground terminal in front and the rear 24v terminal and i jumped that voltage over the disc. relay

 

[NDT]

You have a 24 volt jump pack? If you used a 12 volt jump pack that will not do much.

Can you ask (PM) moderators (Guyfang) to move this thread to the FMTV forum so the usual experts will see it.

 

[Guyfang]

Your wish was my command.

 

[Goki]

You have a 24 volt jump pack? If you used a 12 volt jump pack that will not do much.

Can you ask (PM) moderators (Guyfang) to move this thread to the FMTV forum so the usual experts will see it.

It was a dual voltage pack and was set to 24v

 

[Ronmar]

The remote disconnect relays can fail(Especially the older model). I would simply bypass it, as it is not used for normal operations and is only controlled by the LBCD when it senses the alternator is overloaded(tries to save a very expensive alternator from a grossly oversized battery bank).

Pull the relay and the two bussbars that connect it to the manual disconnect, pull the cables in thru the hole a bit and connect them to the manual disco where the bussbars were connected…

 

[MatthewWBailey]

load side of the solenoid

I redid mine this way...(no relay). The power leads are sometimes too short to pull thru. So I heated and flattened those bus bars to make them straight.

 

[Goki]

Thanks I’ll give it a try. Is this going to kill my alternator if I don’t downsize my battery bank?

 

[NDT]

Almost all of us are running two group 31s. Will be fine unless you live in Prudhoe.

 

[Ronmar]

Two batts are definitely a better match for the 100A alt, and more inline with typical automotive power system specs.

 

[Ronmar]

if using the bussbar extenders, I would probably slide a piece of rubber hose over nut and bolt and as much of the bussbar as I could just to remove any potential for them to come into contact with each other or anything else. no fuse-able links at this point if something contacts them or they loosen and contact each other...

 

[MatthewWBailey]

if using the bussbar extenders, I would probably slide a piece of rubber hose over nut and bolt and as much of the bussbar as I could just to remove any potential for them to come into contact with each other or anything else. no fuse-able links at this point if something contacts them or they loosen and contact each other...

I used rubber tape and 33 tape over that. 1 layer.

 

[fuzzytoaster]

I used rubber tape and 33 tape over that. 1 layer.

I recommend a rubber block to put in-between them just to be safe. Knowing Murphy, when they touch it won't be when you're sitting at home in a dry space with all your tools.

 

[flyfishtrailer]

I recommend a rubber block to put in-between them just to be safe. Knowing Murphy, when they touch it won't be when you're sitting at home in a dry space with all your tools.

I hate that guy Murphy....