msgjd
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I hope that 13'-6" was applied after it was attached to a 6x6 5-ton
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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?
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Hamma Down
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Finally got the Buffalo Soldier into a shop that will swap out the transmission for me.
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Tranny swap is pretty darn easy on these trucks.
Last one I did took about 6 hours total - and probably an hour or 2 of that was fighting a bolt in one of the driveshafts.
Hamma Down
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Great! I'm looking forward to getting this truck on the road. It's been a couple of years!!
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Break out the TM.
I'm going off memory here, but....
Disconnect jack shaft/drive shaft
Remove fluid lines
Remove shift line
Remove pressure regulator line
Remove 1 or 2 electrical plugs (trans temp I think)
Remove vent line
Remove trans support bar
rotate engine to get bolts out of flywheel that connects to TC
Remove housing bolts
Not in that order, obviously.. but it's pretty simple.
Oh, and the dipstick...
Also, get Transynd. It's pretty cheap and is essentially a lifetime fill for these trucks if not abused.
Make sure you clean out the filter for the governor... It's on the tail behind 4 bolts (The governor is). The filter itself is right behind that, behind a single large bolts - can't miss it - easy peasy.
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msgjd
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did around 780 miles a day in various Stars during the 20-teens .. One was a 400 cummins, rest were kitty 4-1/4's and 550's. I hated the acerts .. The outfit's head mechanic had the 4-1/4's outperforming the acerts , but that's no surprise .. Tough trucks , 90% of the fleet ran daily on OW perms above 107k , were ran very hard and held up well
Another Ahab
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TechnoWeenie, you are a soul of infinite patience:
- Wrestling for close to 2 hours over ONE bolt
That can cause one to near lose all of their religion....
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I gave up and had someone else do it.. .TechnoWeenie, you are a soul of infinite patience:
- Wrestling for close to 2 hours over ONE bolt
That can cause one to near lose all of their religion....
We ended up alternating between heat, and soaking it with penetrating fluids of various types. We knew if we broke the bolt off it wasn't going to be fun, and near impossible to drill out. Bent a 1/2" 3ft breaker bar.
We were debating if a sawzall blade would fit, but it wouldn't.
Eventually, after taking a break, I don't remember, who, grabbed the biggest impact we had (1/2 high torque Milwaukee, 1800ft lbs or so) with like 3 adapters to make the bends to where it needed to be to seat properly, and just said 'eff it', and every impact was an eternity as I waiting for the bolt to snap then I hear the ZING and panicked for a second before I realized it zipped right off like it was never stuck.
Another Ahab
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Yeah, like working on stuck pickle jar lid and you hand it to your 7 year old to humor them and he pops it right off after you've been struggling for the last 2 minutes with all your strength to get it off.Man, I LOVE stories with Happy Endings!!!
Yeah, it was that.
Lots of head scratching and cussing - then just thankful it was off.
US6x4
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I finally finished the work on my curled over plastic battery boxes. I laser cut some 12 gauge stainless stiffener pieces and attached them with some aluminum solid rivets and an air hammer. I like how the proper concave bit worked with the rounded rivets and used a blacksmiths anvil on the back side.
Found out these boxes are made of a thermal plastic so they can be heated and manipulated without them burning. I cut the top of the bump off with the dremel, heated the raised spot with a little butane torch, and the rolled it flat with the metal shaft. It sealed itself up and laid perfectly flush.
I also did a little nip & tuck minor surgery on the foot step box lid. I drilled out the spot welds of the L-shaped corner brace where it attached to the vertical part and then used a skinny wheel and angle grinder to cut the vertical part off of the rest. With it separated, I cut a 1/2" tall strip off the bottom of the vertical part and reattached it. We plug welded the holes that were drilled and then stich welded along the seam. It ended up with about an 1/8" gap between the cab.
Found out these boxes are made of a thermal plastic so they can be heated and manipulated without them burning. I cut the top of the bump off with the dremel, heated the raised spot with a little butane torch, and the rolled it flat with the metal shaft. It sealed itself up and laid perfectly flush.
I also did a little nip & tuck minor surgery on the foot step box lid. I drilled out the spot welds of the L-shaped corner brace where it attached to the vertical part and then used a skinny wheel and angle grinder to cut the vertical part off of the rest. With it separated, I cut a 1/2" tall strip off the bottom of the vertical part and reattached it. We plug welded the holes that were drilled and then stich welded along the seam. It ended up with about an 1/8" gap between the cab.
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Very few things excite me, but having this monster back does. Fuel system has been cleaned & upgraded parts have been installed. Huge thanks to Diesel Specialists for all the work on this...
US6x4
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Got my truck out of winter storage and smelled hot brakes on the 6 mile drive home. Didn't feel any braking action or rolling resistance and no smoke, but the smell was there. Park brake handle was released but the temp gun showed 180°F on the park brake when i got home. It worked fine when I put it in storage but it was put away wet.
Crawled underneath today to adjust the brake and inspect and found the outside of the drum glazed over like an old-fashioned doughnut!
The cable is completely seized and will not budge. When actuating the handle the sheath contorts and flexes but the inner cable doesn't move. There was rust on the brake end of the cable sheath as seen in the pic above so I'm suspecting it's stuck on that end alone.
Someone on here just recently had the same issue maybe on a M39 truck? so I'll review those posts again. I'm hoping I can free it up and salvage this cable...
Crawled underneath today to adjust the brake and inspect and found the outside of the drum glazed over like an old-fashioned doughnut!
The cable is completely seized and will not budge. When actuating the handle the sheath contorts and flexes but the inner cable doesn't move. There was rust on the brake end of the cable sheath as seen in the pic above so I'm suspecting it's stuck on that end alone.
Someone on here just recently had the same issue maybe on a M39 truck? so I'll review those posts again. I'm hoping I can free it up and salvage this cable...
Another Ahab
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![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]"){kind=icon}
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Yessir, I would soak it with your favorite penetrating oil from both ends of the cable. Then try and move it, then soak it a little more. Guessing it will break loose in a few days...
US6x4
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Will try that. I'm also thinking of rotating the inner spiral core in the direction of wrap to bust it loose similar to a speedo cable or weedwhacker - that might be easier than push-pull
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Project Farm did a review on penetrating fluids. This blew everything else out of the water. I was a huge Kroil fan but now buy this stuff and it seems to work a lot better.
US6x4
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I'll add that to my collection - thanks for the tip! I've been squirting that same brand's chain/cable lube down my cable but now I just hit a snag...
After removing the t-case bracket and frame rail bracket to let the cable dangle from the cab, I was able to feel with my fingers that the outer spiral sheath has separated between wraps just below the cab handle. Now when I release the handle, the outer sheath wraps (3 or 4 of them) expand instead of the inner cable extending. Either that was the problem all along or, most likely, it was rusted at the end and I caused the wraps to delaminate while trying to force the cable to release.
In any case, I now need a new cable because I don't think that sheath is repairable...dang
Edit: new cable ordered
After removing the t-case bracket and frame rail bracket to let the cable dangle from the cab, I was able to feel with my fingers that the outer spiral sheath has separated between wraps just below the cab handle. Now when I release the handle, the outer sheath wraps (3 or 4 of them) expand instead of the inner cable extending. Either that was the problem all along or, most likely, it was rusted at the end and I caused the wraps to delaminate while trying to force the cable to release.
In any case, I now need a new cable because I don't think that sheath is repairable...dang
Edit: new cable ordered
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On the end in the cab. Pull off the cable if possible and tape a funnel around it and fill it with penetrating fluid. Let it seep down into the cable sheath until you see it out the other lower end. Maybe that will loosen it? Like a drip feed IV unit. LOL
msgjd
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liquid wrench has sure been around a long time .. i recall 2-pint rectangular squeeze cans and gallon refill cans sitting on a shelf in the area GLF/Agway in the 60's-70s.. Dad had a gallon can in the tool shed stamped 1954 .. I think today this product is made by same outfit as PB-Blaster
i haven't used it since the 1970s .. i use good 'ol stinky fuel-oil as a penetrant and as a soak .. And yes i still have an old made-in-usa thumb-pump oil can with long flex spout for those hard-to-get-at precise targets .. I never run out of aerosol pressure this way