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Rebuilding after 15 years of storage
- Thread starter PHOENIX-GER
- Start date
- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
Going on with a lot of small issues
First clean up the wiring at the steering column. We don't install the cover as we wait on the horn relais.
The speaker is now complete with the control lamp. We need to customize a cable with the correct connectors between cb radio and speaker to got it work
Going on with the registration plates of roadlicence for the civilian trailer hitch which we removed for rebuild
Also add the registration plate of the truck
Without this no roadregistration in Germany possible
The shipping data plate is not mandatory for roadregistration but it is necessary to have a high score in the oldtimer appraisel
This is the old mirrorglass. We glue new mirrorglasses in
Got today the cable for the radio antenna. The cable is with 20 cm around 5 cm to short for installation on our radio position
So we can finish the radio next weekend.
First clean up the wiring at the steering column. We don't install the cover as we wait on the horn relais.
The speaker is now complete with the control lamp. We need to customize a cable with the correct connectors between cb radio and speaker to got it work
Going on with the registration plates of roadlicence for the civilian trailer hitch which we removed for rebuild
Also add the registration plate of the truck
Without this no roadregistration in Germany possible
The shipping data plate is not mandatory for roadregistration but it is necessary to have a high score in the oldtimer appraisel
This is the old mirrorglass. We glue new mirrorglasses in
Got today the cable for the radio antenna. The cable is with 20 cm around 5 cm to short for installation on our radio position
So we can finish the radio next weekend.
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- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
Thanks and Good evening
It is much more effort as expected but we like what we do.
Find out i can connect the cb radio complete on speaker and the handset. The original plug was available and i ordered immediately before it is out of stock. We will miss than the freehand function but i am sure i have on long trips always a codriver who can use the cb while i am driving
I ordered Ral 3009 oxidred spray for refreshing the plastic airvents. Seems match as best as possible the original "bordeau". We will test it before use on the original parts
- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
The weekend is "save"
Next goodies delivered
I have a lot of new relais in the shop but none fit. You use 3pin relais. We use here 4pin relais for the horn and it fit in different "connectors". So i need to order the correct one.
The cable for the handset which need to be customize with a plug for the cb radio instead the long one.
I am curious how the paint will come out
And finally the new screws for the cab in stainless steel black
I missed to notice that include the cabscrews set also all be which are visible. I will exchange all the blinky spots on dashboard, doorcover, sunvisors... i can't exchange all blinkys in the cab but the most
Next goodies delivered
I have a lot of new relais in the shop but none fit. You use 3pin relais. We use here 4pin relais for the horn and it fit in different "connectors". So i need to order the correct one.
The cable for the handset which need to be customize with a plug for the cb radio instead the long one.
I am curious how the paint will come out
And finally the new screws for the cab in stainless steel black
I missed to notice that include the cabscrews set also all be which are visible. I will exchange all the blinky spots on dashboard, doorcover, sunvisors... i can't exchange all blinkys in the cab but the most
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- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
The mirrors come out perfect and the black screws look much better
I opened the cableplug for remove it
The day ended with detecting an electric failure. The horn have always power. I start on the steering column. All switches and connection work correct.
Next week i will continue follow the wiring to the horn to find the failure. I have no clue where, we call it "Kurzschluss" translator said short circuit could be located. There should nowhere be such issue. Well i will figure it out sooner or later .... in such projects be always unexpected things. Who don't want deal with this should not go in such projects.
I opened the cableplug for remove it
The day ended with detecting an electric failure. The horn have always power. I start on the steering column. All switches and connection work correct.
Next week i will continue follow the wiring to the horn to find the failure. I have no clue where, we call it "Kurzschluss" translator said short circuit could be located. There should nowhere be such issue. Well i will figure it out sooner or later ....
in such projects be always unexpected things. Who don't want deal with this should not go in such projects.
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- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
The panels come out not exact matching but it is the best result. Next RAL Code is darker
We start measurement about the horn "problem" but couldn't solve it today. About other duties could we check today just two possible reasons. First the horn button at the steering column work like it should. The switch between Airhorn and stock horn is also correct wired. Still a lot of traps to check where the failure could be located.
We start measurement about the horn "problem" but couldn't solve it today. About other duties could we check today just two possible reasons. First the horn button at the steering column work like it should. The switch between Airhorn and stock horn is also correct wired. Still a lot of traps to check where the failure could be located.
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- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
After checking every possible cable connection, I finally located the horn relay with a faulty diode. I had already suspected it, but since it was so difficult to access, I saved it for last.
After running out of time again yesterday, I've postponed the repair until next Thursday (Christian Holiday in Germany called Christie Himmelfahrt). I think I'll put a cable connector in between so I can rebuild the wiring in peace at the workbench.
Today i could continue at home in my office a little bit Soldering Work for the Military Speaker. The speaker hat a cold solder joint therefor he was thrown away
I use additonal a magnifying lamp, i hope it is the right translation. We call it Lupenlampe
My eyes are old-age so i need this for this very small and fine solder joints even though I have good progressive lenses
i felt like a micro-surgeon
From This
To This
Inside the Speaker is also a little bit Soldering Work necessary
After running out of time again yesterday, I've postponed the repair until next Thursday (Christian Holiday in Germany called Christie Himmelfahrt). I think I'll put a cable connector in between so I can rebuild the wiring in peace at the workbench.
Today i could continue at home in my office a little bit Soldering Work for the Military Speaker. The speaker hat a cold solder joint therefor he was thrown away
I use additonal a magnifying lamp, i hope it is the right translation. We call it Lupenlampe
My eyes are old-age so i need this for this very small and fine solder joints even though I have good progressive lenses
i felt like a micro-surgeon
From This
To This
Inside the Speaker is also a little bit Soldering Work necessary
- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
The horn is working nicely now
This small bad boy was the cause
it seems 45 years ago was the relais without a diode and this was added on the connection.
After i noticed the new relais have already the diode include was it just a cut off from this old bad boy of the past
Now where the horn is connected and working we decide to buy a new horn. Unless it work it sound like we drive a truck from the "Waltons".
For all Oldtimer Puries will we store that horn.
Unfortunately the airhorns are not allow in the city here in Germany so we need for roadlicence a "normal" horn.
So lets start to clean up the mess i have now again on the dashboard after measuring several connections...
This small bad boy was the cause
it seems 45 years ago was the relais without a diode and this was added on the connection.
After i noticed the new relais have already the diode include was it just a cut off from this old bad boy of the past
Now where the horn is connected and working we decide to buy a new horn. Unless it work it sound like we drive a truck from the "Waltons".
For all Oldtimer Puries will we store that horn.
Unfortunately the airhorns are not allow in the city here in Germany so we need for roadlicence a "normal" horn.
So lets start to clean up the mess i have now again on the dashboard after measuring several connections...
- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
During solve the mess under the dashboard occurs a new failure
The light switch is gone
Looks innocent but don't work anymore.
Available in Germany for 80 Euro or i import myselve 45 Euro all taxes and shipping include for an ACDelco Switch
The light switch is gone
Looks innocent but don't work anymore.
Available in Germany for 80 Euro or i import myselve 45 Euro all taxes and shipping include for an ACDelco Switch
- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
On wednesday we got the new switch.
After assembling we had a headlight Failure. No more headlights passengerside, no more highbeam both sides, Parklight avaiable both sides
I thought i got crazy. After control and measure the result was no failure inside the truck.... so we search between firewall and headlamps. What we found was so unbelieveable that we never thought about it.
Finally it was a partielly loosen headlampconnectors. They are new like the headlamps.
The rubbercover on the lamps give so much pressure on the connection that it slip off after a while. Left side was fallen off already.
Never seen such thing happen in more than 40 years of vehicle repair and maintenance
"You choose a fine time to leave me headlightconnector... "
After assembling we had a headlight Failure. No more headlights passengerside, no more highbeam both sides, Parklight avaiable both sides
I thought i got crazy. After control and measure the result was no failure inside the truck.... so we search between firewall and headlamps. What we found was so unbelieveable that we never thought about it.
Finally it was a partielly loosen headlampconnectors. They are new like the headlamps.
The rubbercover on the lamps give so much pressure on the connection that it slip off after a while. Left side was fallen off already.
Never seen such thing happen in more than 40 years of vehicle repair and maintenance
"You choose a fine time to leave me headlightconnector... "
- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
4 weeks ago we was already at this point and than the horn failure occur and had some minor other annoying problems with it.
Now all is solved - we really have now enough of electric mysteries...
The adaption of the mil speaker for the cb radio work well.
The dashboard speaker for the radio are ok for now but in future we want a better sound with additional speakers. We delay this and go on to preparing for roadworthy.
Now all is solved - we really have now enough of electric mysteries...
The adaption of the mil speaker for the cb radio work well.
The dashboard speaker for the radio are ok for now but in future we want a better sound with additional speakers. We delay this and go on to preparing for roadworthy.
- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
Continue to prepare the hood assembly.
This will be a difficult job by just 4 hands.
The vent to cowl assembly needed some customized pins as the original was gone
I found some used in the USA for sale but with import fee and tax not worth that money as its the same condition like ours. So i customized the pins ourself. Hopefully the plastic pins will last long enough of our live.
All prepared for hoodassembly tomorrow. I hope the the hood fit in easely without much adjustment....
Meanwhile we gave him his face back today
This will be a difficult job by just 4 hands.
The vent to cowl assembly needed some customized pins as the original was gone
I found some used in the USA for sale but with import fee and tax not worth that money as its the same condition like ours. So i customized the pins ourself. Hopefully the plastic pins will last long enough of our live.
All prepared for hoodassembly tomorrow. I hope the the hood fit in easely without much adjustment....
Meanwhile we gave him his face back today
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- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
This small 2 to shop crane does always a good job for us
Could be more exactly adjusted but it's not possible between fenders, doors, front and cowl to vent....
Could be more exactly adjusted but it's not possible between fenders, doors, front and cowl to vent....
- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
It took a lot of hours specially the doors. These are aftermarket doors we bought 1995 after purchase. Original the truck had a lot of dents of his army time. So he got new doors, new fender and a new hood in 1995 before he was paint in red as business truck for our metalcompany. Nothing is more worse as to adjust these aftermarket stuff! But there was no chance to got off these dents from the original parts. Looks like someone use the truck as punching ball.
We start by mount the cab, the fender and front with little pre-adjustment. With the doors start the real adjustment and it took the most time. The hood was mount in 30 min but the adjustment took again 2 hours.
I am not satisfy with the result but its the best we could got.
Would you go another route by assembling the parts?
- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
The next for customizing was the Battery Mountingplates.
We bought the truck in 1995 without Batts and missing Mountingplates.
So we had always used customid plates by ourself.
For the Vartas we bought 2021 didn't we adapt the old plates as he gone in Frame-Off-Restoration.
The old plates was from Bosch Batterys
So they dont fit closely and we need to make some correction on the plates
not much to change but necessary to do. It must fit closely. Couldn't finish this weekend as i had also to do some maintenance on my Volvo.
Another annoying fact was that the Dorman Hood release cable 912020 not fit, it is to long. I couldnt find any other which is shorter. All have the same specification
Finally i used a metalsleeve to bring it work. I have not a tool to cut the cable for the correct lenght and press the knob on the end. Here is also no shop near by which offer this to do. So thats our solution until we got a better one.
We decided also to go with a new airpressure tank for the Airhorns. Arrived yesterday with all fittings and tubes we need. The installation will be done after underbodyprotection. The tank will be mount in the area from the sparewheel under the bed. Sparewheel is not more possible since we mount the civilian Trailer hitch in 1995. The location before was left side where now is the second tank. The old tank was 30liter and to mount it in the sparewheel area is difficult. It is easier to go with a smaller tank from 20liter, specially we dont need that capacity. Sparewheel and Mounting-bracket is stored. I am still not sure where i will take the sparewheel with the truck. Since 1995 we was always without sparewheel on the road. Sure enough space on the bed.... but i am looking for a better solution. The compressor will be mount in the engine bar. The last space we have there on the left side
For underbodyprotection I had ask several shops and got offers from 500-2000 Euro include Material. I couldn't find a solution what fullfill our demands. I had a long talk with an oldtimer special shop. They told me it is necessary to cover all sensitive parts, specially electric switches and sensors.
This let the costs rise up fast if there is much to cover. Unfortunately it didn't think about that issue. I thought i will give it to a shop ... The oldtimershop advice me to do it ourself. It is not difficult only much work and a "dirt" job.
I have the GMC already finished the chassis so that i will test there first how the handling will be with Fluid Film and Perma-Film. It is much easier to do before installation the electric, drivetrain, cab and bed.
We will descide how we go on with the underbodyprotection on the chevy after this expierence.
We decide also to go with a professional military stencil shop to got our correct markings. Should be here next week as already shipped. Thanks to Guy who provide us a correct code and font type
We bought the truck in 1995 without Batts and missing Mountingplates.
So we had always used customid plates by ourself.
For the Vartas we bought 2021 didn't we adapt the old plates as he gone in Frame-Off-Restoration.
The old plates was from Bosch Batterys
So they dont fit closely and we need to make some correction on the plates
not much to change but necessary to do. It must fit closely. Couldn't finish this weekend as i had also to do some maintenance on my Volvo.
Another annoying fact was that the Dorman Hood release cable 912020 not fit, it is to long. I couldnt find any other which is shorter. All have the same specification
Finally i used a metalsleeve to bring it work. I have not a tool to cut the cable for the correct lenght and press the knob on the end. Here is also no shop near by which offer this to do. So thats our solution until we got a better one.
We decided also to go with a new airpressure tank for the Airhorns. Arrived yesterday with all fittings and tubes we need. The installation will be done after underbodyprotection. The tank will be mount in the area from the sparewheel under the bed. Sparewheel is not more possible since we mount the civilian Trailer hitch in 1995. The location before was left side where now is the second tank. The old tank was 30liter and to mount it in the sparewheel area is difficult. It is easier to go with a smaller tank from 20liter, specially we dont need that capacity. Sparewheel and Mounting-bracket is stored. I am still not sure where i will take the sparewheel with the truck. Since 1995 we was always without sparewheel on the road. Sure enough space on the bed.... but i am looking for a better solution. The compressor will be mount in the engine bar. The last space we have there on the left side
For underbodyprotection I had ask several shops and got offers from 500-2000 Euro include Material. I couldn't find a solution what fullfill our demands. I had a long talk with an oldtimer special shop. They told me it is necessary to cover all sensitive parts, specially electric switches and sensors.
This let the costs rise up fast if there is much to cover. Unfortunately it didn't think about that issue. I thought i will give it to a shop ... The oldtimershop advice me to do it ourself. It is not difficult only much work and a "dirt" job.
I have the GMC already finished the chassis so that i will test there first how the handling will be with Fluid Film and Perma-Film. It is much easier to do before installation the electric, drivetrain, cab and bed.
We will descide how we go on with the underbodyprotection on the chevy after this expierence.
We decide also to go with a professional military stencil shop to got our correct markings. Should be here next week as already shipped. Thanks to Guy who provide us a correct code and font type
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Haha I am thinking about starting with the following: Doors -> Fenders -> then the Hood. I'm just about done with the body work on my hood.
- 496
- 1,045
- 93
- Location
- Germany
1Love let me know how it works for you. Usually the adjustment should be able with the original shims. We had a lot of them in different thickness with the stock doors and fenders. With the aftermarket doors and fenders installed 1995 with the red painting needed we just the half of them.